M60b40 rev limiter issue

[Chando]

Sent him a text! cheers for that, hopefully has one

[Chando]

after sourcing an ecu from Latvia, i put it in last night, and unfortunately it has not helped,

what clocks does everyone run with there m60b40? should i have the clocks for the engine? will that eliminate the limiter? can only find aftermarket Bee*R limiter that might work, i say might as it seams the only want to sell me it, comes with no instructions for my car ( not surprised)
i got information from somewhere that that might effect it as the 6 cylinder / 8 cylinders work on a different amount of pulses for the counter, but it strange that the gauge is reading the correct reading
any helps good help as just now i'm getting no where and its not fun:(

[The Dark Side of Will]

If you still have the original 6 cylinder tachometer gauge face and coding plug in the instrument cluster, then the tach will read high by 33%. When the tach reads 8000, the engine is actually turning 6000. If you put an unmodified 404 in, then the engine should have a limiter, but the tach may read 8500 or more before you hit it.

If you know your rear end ratio, then you can calculate the actual engine RPM by speed in gear. E.g. 80 mph in 3rd = 6000 RPM (for example... use your own numbers). You can verify operation of the limiter that way while simultaneously verifying that you are not radically overspeeding the engine.

[Chando]

Okay thank you, the readings are about 1200 in cold startup then drop to 700/800 on idle on the m3 cluster, I'll see if I can get ahold of a rpm gauge for on the crankshaft pully failing that I'll try do some calculations, might just have to go for It and buy the cluster for the engine, anyone know i lf the plugs on the same should be the same? Feel like I'm non stop asking questions, but never had this problem before and it doesn't seam many people have!

[JGood]

Yeah, I'm guessing your tachometer is just reading incorrectly. There weren't any factory v8 e36's, which means unless there's a signal converter in line between the DME and tach somewhere, it's definitely wrong.

I used the Dakota Digital SGI-8. It's a small programmable box, you tell it how many cylinders you have, how many cylinders your gauges are expecting, and it does the rest. It's ~$75 in the US. That would ensure your tachometer is reading correctly.

I'm baffled why almost all e30 v8 swaps use that little $100 conversion board, when that still requires hunting down the 4 cyl coding plug to work correctly. But that's irrelevant here.

[Chando]

Yeah, I'm guessing your tachometer is just reading incorrectly. There weren't any factory v8 e36's, which means unless there's a signal converter in line between the DME and tach somewhere, it's definitely wrong.

I used the Dakota Digital SGI-8. It's a small programmable box, you tell it how many cylinders you have, how many cylinders your gauges are expecting, and it does the rest. It's ~$75 in the US. That would ensure your tachometer is reading correctly.

I'm baffled why almost all e30 v8 swaps use that little $100 conversion board, when that still requires hunting down the 4 cyl coding plug to work correctly. But that's irrelevant here.

Okay cheers, will get one ordered so should be here in the next couple of weeks, as I can't find a UK supplier, will update you when it comes :)

[The Dark Side of Will]

Okay thank you, the readings are about 1200 in cold startup then drop to 700/800 on idle on the m3 cluster, I'll see if I can get ahold of a rpm gauge for on the crankshaft pully failing that I'll try do some calculations, might just have to go for It and buy the cluster for the engine, anyone know i lf the plugs on the same should be the same? Feel like I'm non stop asking questions, but never had this problem before and it doesn't seam many people have!

If it reads 800 at idle, that sounds correct. I don't think an M60 can idle at 600 RPM... or at least not well

[JGood]

If it reads 800 at idle, that sounds correct. I don't think an M60 can idle at 600 RPM... or at least not well

Mine actually does idle right at 600. Actually, with a crappy stuck ICV when I first built the car, it idled at about 400, rock steady.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Interdasting.

[Chando]

okay, update, Got the interface unit today, wired it in tonight, i have videos of before and after on a friends phone if needed but it idles at 500 rpm on warm idle, with the interface spliced in. took it to over 6000 on the gauge and sounded very fast with no limit upto that point, what is standard limit at? sounds like its away to blow at that rpm but i'm not sure if its because its got no load on it it sounds worse than it really is, but trust me, its painful revving it like this!

[JGood]

You're fine, the stock rev limiter is 6500.

[Chando]

You're fine, the stock rev limiter is 6500.

okay, will have a man pill tomorrow then try for 6500, i've now got an adjustable bee*r limiter on the way as last resort, honestly is not nice revving it like this!

[Chando]

got side tracked tonight and before i knew it it was after 10pm,
plugged in a diagnostic tool tonight to confirm the rev gauge is now reading correct(thank you), also found a fault code 24 on coil number 4.

will try a rev test tomorrow :)

[Chando]

"Jgood" you are a legend! everything is perfect after testing today, limits at 6500, idles at about 550.

Thank you Very much

Charlie

[JGood]

Glad to hear it worked out for you! Enjoy your torque :)

I pulled mine out of storage last night for the first time since last year and drove it to work today. Forgot how much fun it is!