Herp de derp M60 in progress - track day complete

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • wspellmann
    replied
    Originally posted by dasmanschaft012
    Nope, trying to avoid it. i've already unsuccessfully tried to remove the shear bolts once.
    Godspeed.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • dasmanschaft012
    replied
    Originally posted by wspellmann
    Have you taken out there steering shaft to install your pedal set?
    Nope, trying to avoid it. i've already unsuccessfully tried to remove the shear bolts once.

    Leave a comment:


  • wspellmann
    replied
    Originally posted by dasmanschaft012
    Started to put together my Willwood pedal kit from Garagistic.





    Picked up some goodies at the junkyard, got an intake tube and some other bits. Since my harness is from an auto car, I looked at a m60 car there, and took a picture of the two ECU plugs. In this picture, the top plug is the engine ECU plug, and the bottom is the auto trans plug.



    And picked up 2 style 5s that are in really good shape.


    M20 is coming out tomorrow.
    Sweet! Have you taken out there steering shaft to install your pedal set? I didn't and I wish I had done so. It was very difficult and cramped up there.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • dasmanschaft012
    replied
    Started to put together my Willwood pedal kit from Garagistic.





    Picked up some goodies at the junkyard, got an intake tube and some other bits. Since my harness is from an auto car, I looked at a m60 car there, and took a picture of the two ECU plugs. In this picture, the top plug is the engine ECU plug, and the bottom is the auto trans plug.



    And picked up 2 style 5s that are in really good shape.


    M20 is coming out tomorrow.

    Leave a comment:


  • flyboyx
    replied
    i'd use an acetylene torch to gently heat up the broken stud being careful not to melt the block. if there is a little bit of bolt shank left sticking out of the block, you can grab it with vice grips and it should twist out pretty easy after its heated. this is how i seem to generally get myself out of these situations.
    Last edited by flyboyx; 05-21-2017, 07:24 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • wspellmann
    replied
    Originally posted by dasmanschaft012
    Im not sure what type of extractor youre going to use, but i snapped an extractor inside one of the bolts. So you may want to think about it...
    Ive decided to try out alum, since we have aluminum blocks. Not sure how i will set it up but Ill take pictures. Ive already bought oem replacements for all those bolts as well. And lots of anti seize...
    I don't even have to worry about the extractor. I f'd up the pre drill and went off center. Looks like I'm off to Wally world for a Dremel. 😠

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • wspellmann
    replied
    Originally posted by dasmanschaft012
    Im not sure what type of extractor youre going to use, but i snapped an extractor inside one of the bolts. So you may want to think about it...
    Ive decided to try out alum, since we have aluminum blocks. Not sure how i will set it up but Ill take pictures. Ive already bought oem replacements for all those bolts as well. And lots of anti seize...
    I don't even have to worry about the extractor. I f'd up the pre drill and went off center. Looks like I'm off to Wally world for a Dremel. 😠

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • dasmanschaft012
    replied
    Originally posted by wspellmann
    Damn son, we're in the same boat right now. Although I only snapped one of those bolts. I just got back from home Depot with an extractor kit.

    I'm going to replace all of those little bastards.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
    Im not sure what type of extractor youre going to use, but i snapped an extractor inside one of the bolts. So you may want to think about it...
    Ive decided to try out alum, since we have aluminum blocks. Not sure how i will set it up but Ill take pictures. Ive already bought oem replacements for all those bolts as well. And lots of anti seize...

    Leave a comment:


  • wspellmann
    replied
    Originally posted by dasmanschaft012
    Minor updates. Been stuck for a while with the rear coolant plate thing. Most of the bolts were pretty badly seized. I managed to get all but 4 out without snapping. Small m6 bolts twist the head off like butter.



    The 4 starred holes are which ones are stuck in the block


    Got my old pedal box out, still trying to find a buyer for my old SETA. I have nowhere to put it so I have to keep the motor in the bay until I find a buyer, which is seriously stalling my progress.
    Got my Garagistic motor mount arms and pedal box painted up


    And mount arms installed. I used M8x1.25x20mm grade 8 bolts with washers. This is the perfect length i think.
    Damn son, we're in the same boat right now. Although I only snapped one of those bolts. I just got back from home Depot with an extractor kit.

    I'm going to replace all of those little bastards.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • dasmanschaft012
    replied
    Minor updates. Been stuck for a while with the rear coolant plate thing. Most of the bolts were pretty badly seized. I managed to get all but 4 out without snapping. Small m6 bolts twist the head off like butter.



    The 4 starred holes are which ones are stuck in the block


    Got my old pedal box out, still trying to find a buyer for my old SETA. I have nowhere to put it so I have to keep the motor in the bay until I find a buyer, which is seriously stalling my progress.
    Got my Garagistic motor mount arms and pedal box painted up


    And mount arms installed. I used M8x1.25x20mm grade 8 bolts with washers. This is the perfect length i think.

    Leave a comment:


  • dasmanschaft012
    replied
    As you can see the Garagistic stuff looks really good.
    I know! Thats why i bought it :) :D

    i wouldn't fuck with the abs if i were you. i suggest making custom lines for the oil filter and finding a different location for it instead.
    Yeah I'm goning to go that route. I was already planning in the future to go to AN lines, a 'cartridged' filter adapter, and plumb an oil cooler in as well. Ill see if i can get the filter housing to fit on stock lines, but they would be going eventually anyways...

    Leave a comment:


  • jpod999
    replied
    Originally posted by flyboyx

    there is no particular reason that filter housing has to sit upright in the vertical position. you could mount it sideways under the car body if you wanted to. i'm still working out a position for my car but i am thinking horizontal in front of the driver's or passenger side inner fender where the horns are. aside benefit is that you can just put your pan under it when you unscrew the cap and all the old oil will drain.
    That's an interesting idea. If you do that please show it off!

    Leave a comment:


  • flyboyx
    replied
    i wouldn't fuck with the abs if i were you. i suggest making custom lines for the oil filter and finding a different location for it instead. there are threads here about making the lines.

    personally, i think its better to leave all the stock e30 parts you intend to use in the stock location if possible.

    there is no particular reason that filter housing has to sit upright in the vertical position. you could mount it sideways under the car body if you wanted to. i'm still working out a position for my car but i am thinking horizontal in front of the driver's or passenger side inner fender where the horns are. aside benefit is that you can just put your pan under it when you unscrew the cap and all the old oil will drain.

    Leave a comment:


  • carbon966
    replied
    A lot of power!

    Leave a comment:


  • wspellmann
    replied
    Originally posted by dasmanschaft012
    i'm using the willwood manual brake conversion, and my understanding was that the ABS gets in the way of the filter housing. now im confused...
    If you're using wilwood boosterless you don't need to move abs. It's if you were doing the relocated booster. The booster would be occupying the spot where the abs is. All you need to do is bend two lines from abs pump to pedal box.

    Garagistic's plumbing kit is worth the money. I imagine you could rebend the original lines of you're pro at making brake lines. I am not. Mine look like caca but they'll do the trick.

    As you can see the Garagistic stuff looks really good.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:

Working...