Herp de derp M60 in progress - track day complete

[dasmanschaft012]

Got the bracket painted and installed.





And laid the old SETA bottom end to rest (was knocking)

https://youtu.be/1SiylvmFI_8

[Jean]

One step closer!

[DoneRightBimmer]

Keep it up i just installed my M60 for the first test fit and gonna start figuring out hoses and such so this really has helped me. your Pictures help so much.

[dasmanschaft012]

Keep it up i just installed my M60 for the first test fit and gonna start figuring out hoses and such so this really has helped me. your Pictures help so much.

No problem, good luck with your swap. Just send me a PM if you have any questions or want more pictures. Jean and I swap pics pretty frequently ;D
I wish i could work on my car today, but its been 100+ the last couple days.

[dasmanschaft012]

Got the lines cut for the brakes


Got the DIY body mount shifter installed with the e46 shift select rod (PN 25111434613 i think) and a z3 shifter.
Sits pretty good i think. This picture is in neutral.


Quick video of shifting (the throw is pretty long...)

https://youtu.be/3EwT-37vO_g

[36brua]

^^ shifter looks good. I have same but w/ x5 shifter. Shifts can be a little notchy but firm. Nice work

[dasmanschaft012]

I'm a huge fan

Found some motivation this weekend.
X20 connector wires lengthened


Chopped off the body-side C101 and i will be crimping the pigtailed X20 to the cut off C101 wires.
Bought these are temporary connections while i figure everything out


Here's my intial try at the wiring diagram. I dont care about my X20 colors because the plug is off an e36 so the colors are all wrong. Im going off of pin number on X20 and color code on C101. I found everyone used the engine side colors of C101, and all I have to reference is the body side colors. So i added that info in.


I do have questions about the yellowed lines.
Why is there a temp sender gnd on c101? the sensor only has 1 wire.
Why is there a starter gnd wire? I feel like if somehow the starter-to-block ground connection was messed up, all the current would go thru the wire and burn it up.
Can anyone verify the "diag con/o2 heater", pin 6 to 22?
Can anyone verify the "diag connector" pin 16 to 3?? 3 might be someones ABS? Garagistic says C101 pin 20 is ABS 12+???

Also I did the fan mounts.
Figured out where its gonna go on the car, then took off the core support and drilled some holes (bolts thru them in this pic)


The top holes were in a weird place where i had to drill into the the top of a "T" of sheet metal. How to get a bolt back there? Get a flange nut(M6 here), drill the hole as big as the hex can go but not big enough for the flange, and then pop it in



Then tack them on


The bottom 2 mounts were thru a single wall, so just tack some nuts on for ease of installation


Cut the bracket ends to length, paint the cut ends, and bolt it on.


View from the top:


Im a little worried about the head of these top bolts getting close to the radiator


With radiator. The fan is actually just about 1/8" away from the radiator, so the fan shouldnt hit the rad at all with a gasket and a shroud.




Call that done! Actually was way easier than i thought. Only took about an hour.

Some random stuff now,

Jean turned me onto this Gates 18965 hose for the expansion tank to the 740 water pump inlet.


Water pump side good. 5/8":


Resevoir side is good. 1":


And I'll just have to extend the 5/8" end maybe another foot. no big deal. Thanks again Jean for solving all my problems!

Jean was also having some throttle linkage problems, here's the measurement from the pivot to cable centers on the throttle cable linkage bracket thing. I believe it was 3 3/8". This is what i got from following the Garagistic instructions for modification which worked for me. My throttle opens all the way and closes all the way.


Helping a friend do seals/guibo/shifter bushings on his e30. Check out the clip thats holding the shift select onto the transmission coupler.




In case you cant tell, thats a ring terminal bent to hold onto the peg.

[dasmanschaft012]

Doesn't look like much, but the right half of the garage was a disaster zone (the other half still is).
At least now, you can walk in a straight line without stepping on anything.

[dasmanschaft012]

Time for some more progress. Been distracted with tracking the corvette, holidays, other cars. Doing some little stuff here and there nothing big. Mainly trying to get this terrible brake set up to bleed.

Had a problem with the alternator CHARGE wire. It looks like some stud or something used to be here and broke off?


Ended up removing the plastic spacer on there, finding there was still some stud underneath. Done.

I made a fat alternator wire (probably bigger gauge than I needed) 1/0 AWG. Routed it under the intake manifold.


Then from the back of the intake over the corner of the head and down to the starter. This section will be wrapped in High temp heat shielding, as they are super close to the headers.


Block to chassis ground.


I've had to rotate my oil filter housing so the line ports face forward. I'm getting oil and power steering AN lines tomorrow hopefully. Ignore the cooler for now as that adds increased cost and complexity and I just want to start the thing.

Im having trouble figuring out connectors on the car, these are just e30 connectors i cant remember which goes where.

Under driver dash:







Driver side headlight area:


Passenger headlight area:



This thing might be able to get started tomorrow! Who knows.

[dasmanschaft012]

Broom broom get out me car

Today is Friday, my dudes.
Tuesday was my last post.
Wednesday I went to Earls' in Lawndale, and had them make me my 2 low pressure power steering lines, and my two (temporary) oil lines. Unfortunately, due to the extremely tight space between the alternator and headers, the first revision didnt work. I couldnt get the escape path right with the 45s on the motor end. Went back on Thursday, made some changes, had these puppies.

(2x of these) stainless -10, ~5.5ft. 30deg and 45deg on one, straight and 45 deg on the other. High temp flame guard on the section next to the header.




Ill also probably wrap some extra heat wrap on the line closest to the header.

-8 braided line for power steering rack return, 45deg.

Runs straight across to the pump feed and meets up


Big ol fatty -12 power steering pump feed, 150deg



PS just needs the open lines trimmed and should be good to go.

Jeez this stuff is expensive...
Oil lines (not pictured) go across behind the valance to the filter housing (45deg ends on this side). Eventually this will all be redone to put in the oil cooler.
Havent seen the valance on for a while.

[dasmanschaft012]

Thursday this happened.
https://youtu.be/E4TlEFefUB0

But, the fuel relay not getting turned on??? No start. fixed a couple minor leaks (loose fittings, etc)

Gave up, Friday spend all day following the bentley, checking components for no start...
The main relay is turning on, the fuel pump relay is getting power and has continuity all the way to the pump. I can ground the fuel pump relay and itll turn on the pump. Unsure why. CPS measures 520ohm. No o2 sensors connected. maf connected.
Stomp test shows this '1000' code, so i hold the throttle for 10sec but it never goes to the 1444 'all clear' code.
https://youtu.be/pyCVqhFCiJ8

Eventually, decided to check the fuel lines, and yep, they were swapped. Fuel pump relay still not turning on, so i jumpted the pump relay and...
https://youtu.be/TllLFhMjIYE

Note the huge bang and mist...


The oil filter cap literally exploded EVERYWHERE

https://youtu.be/_i2JkJnxDTA

I think I just plugged the lines in backwards. Going to the yard first thing tomorrow some new caps.

[dasmanschaft012]

Went to the junk yard, got a couple oil caps.
Lots of clean up.
Threw a cap on, more oil, swapped the oil lines. Verified I did have them swapped by looking at other cars in the junkyard.
Cranked her over with NO jumping of the fuel pump.

First unassisted start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iox-_caDH6k

Rev it a bit
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1mOwiXKV84

In general, it seems to be working. I need to iron out all the details.
Its not charging, and the temp sensor took overnight to magically start working.
The battery light on my cluster lights up when the car is OFF, and the light turns off when i turn the key to any position. Only getting 12.2V while car is running. With everything on the harness connected, battery unplugged, key out, the BLU D+ wire has continuity with the battery +. It might just be the regulator. New alt?

I am also drawing ~400mA from the battery while the car is OFF. Tracked it down to fuses 21 and 24.

My blower motor isnt working.

No leaks detected.

[flyboyx]

congratulations! thats a good milestone to pass.

[delamaize]

Congrads man! The first start is always a relief!

As for the charging, I wish I could help, Everything except the check engine light worked on mine for the most part from the get-go. I'd say it wouldn't hurt to get the alternator tested though.

[dasmanschaft012]

As for the charging, I wish I could help, Everything except the check engine light worked on mine for the most part from the get-go. I'd say it wouldn't hurt to get the alternator tested though.

I had the alt tested at the auto parts store, tested fine. Based on some research, the regulator on the alt is bad. Unfortunately, just the regulator costs about 450$, if you cant find someone with stock. A reman complete alt is about 250$. I may try to pull a couple at the junk yard. Anyone on here have a spare alt or two?

Power steering is all done. Lines trimmed, cut, retained. System bled with no leaks.




...Yes its at an angle. Im gonna see how it goes. might ziptie a rag around it . Worst case, Ill go to an aftermarket resevoir.

Having big problems bleeding my willwood set up. Anyone an expert on it? @Jgood maybe...