Wilwood master cylinder leaking

[jpod999]

Read through the instructions that came with your Wilwood parts, it's all there!

[dougie30]

Bench bleed them in the car.


photos uploaded

Just hold your finger over the end of the brake line inside the engine bay.

Awesome didn't know of that either.. haha

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[jpod999]

Bench bleed them in the car.


photos uploaded

Just hold your finger over the end of the brake line inside the engine bay.

[dougie30]

oops too late:(

Same here did yours bleed?

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[dasmanschaft012]

For anyone using the Wilwood pedal box, bench bleed the master cylinders first!

oops too late:(

[dougie30]

I always thought the same and ran it the first time without any sealant. It sealed and worked fine, but there would always be a drop of two after a few days. Redid the lines and no more leaks. The below is an interesting read

http://www.loctite-success.com.au/content/uag/oneloctite-campaign/australia/www/en/whitepapers/_jcr_content/par/download_5/file.res/High%20pressure%20leak%20prevention%20improved%20performance%20and%20reliability%20from%20anaerobic%20thread%20sealing%20compounds.pdf

I put sealant on the fittings, torqued them into the master cylinders and waited a few days before I ran any fluid through the system. (use only a small amount and avoid the very first couple of threads, the seal is created mechanically by the taper design, the sealant is for sealing voids in the threads).

For anyone using the Wilwood pedal box, bench bleed the master cylinders first! I spent a lot of time trying to get all the air out from the system the first time around because I didn't do that.

Awesome info, wish I knew this earlier thank you!

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[Q8y_drifter]

I still retain that no brake line should ever need sealant. Should be a purely mechanical connection. Metal on metal.

I've no doubt it will fix leaks, but there should be no leaks. If you have leaks, you have the wrong or damaged fittings.

Although the more i read the more it seems everyone puts that thread sealant on NPT fittings on wilwood brakes. Seems counter intuitive.

I always thought the same and ran it the first time without any sealant. It sealed and worked fine, but there would always be a drop of two after a few days. Redid the lines and no more leaks. The below is an interesting read

http://www.loctite-success.com.au/content/uag/oneloctite-campaign/australia/www/en/whitepapers/_jcr_content/par/download_5/file.res/High%20pressure%20leak%20prevention%20improved%20performance%20and%20reliability%20from%20anaerobic%20thread%20sealing%20compounds.pdf

So do I put the sealant on and let it sit or put the sealant on thread it in the master cylinder then let it sit?

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I put sealant on the fittings, torqued them into the master cylinders and waited a few days before I ran any fluid through the system. (use only a small amount and avoid the very first couple of threads, the seal is created mechanically by the taper design, the sealant is for sealing voids in the threads).

For anyone using the Wilwood pedal box, bench bleed the master cylinders first! I spent a lot of time trying to get all the air out from the system the first time around because I didn't do that.

[dougie30]

They were all very tight. I can't get the brakes to bleed. Even with bench bleeding! Anyone have any pointers? I've read that you have to do both the front and rear at the same time- I haven't been doing that. Maybe that is part of the issue.

Mine bleed and have fluid coming through and I'm doing the front only

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[dougie30]

That's the same conclusion I came to.



It takes 4 hours to fixture and 72 hours to cure. I gave it over 12 hours before I put any pressure.

So if I understand correctly put the sealant on the threads, thread them in hand tight (anaerobic won't dry in the open air) then wait 12 hours to torque them?

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[jpod999]

Were the 90deg fittings 'tight' to screw in for you? What other issues are you having? I plan on checking for leaks etc before i put the underdash stuff back together.

They were all very tight. I can't get the brakes to bleed. Even with bench bleeding! Anyone have any pointers? I've read that you have to do both the front and rear at the same time- I haven't been doing that. Maybe that is part of the issue.

[jpod999]

Although the more i read the more it seems everyone puts that thread sealant on NPT fittings on wilwood brakes. Seems counter intuitive.

That's the same conclusion I came to.

So do I put the sealant on and let it sit or put the sealant on thread it in the master cylinder then let it sit?

It takes 4 hours to fixture and 72 hours to cure. I gave it over 12 hours before I put any pressure.

[dougie30]

On the NPT fittings I used Permatex high temp thread sealant (same as the one posted above) and let it sit for a few days before I pressure tested it. No leaks or any issues on all 3 fittings. If you use the liquid sealant above just know that it takes several days before the sealant completely dries and cures like it should.

So do I put the sealant on and let it sit or put the sealant on thread it in the master cylinder then let it sit?

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[dougie30]

I am going through brake issues with the Wilwood setup right now as well, this being one of them.

Permatex makes a sealant exactly for this purpose: https://www.permatex.com/products/th...hread-sealant/

I let it set overnight last night and now am getting no leaks at the 90º adapters.

Awesome thanks for this I will give it a shot!

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[dougie30]

I would never put teflon tape near brake components, if they do not seal metal to metal as intended time to pull apart and get it fixed.

So the masercylidner has an internal NPT thread, what are you trying to screw into it?

A npt threaded brake line adapter

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[e30davie]

I still retain that no brake line should ever need sealant. Should be a purely mechanical connection. Metal on metal.

I've no doubt it will fix leaks, but there should be no leaks. If you have leaks, you have the wrong or damaged fittings.

Although the more i read the more it seems everyone puts that thread sealant on NPT fittings on wilwood brakes. Seems counter intuitive.