Garagistic boosterless kit and Early e30
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You'd think this would be in the Garagistic booster delete installation guide :)I made one from steel flat bar 1/8 x 1/2 mounted horizontally.
drilled 2 holes to mount on lower studs of 2 masters reinstalled nuts. bar extends towards gas Pedal. hook spring on pedal pull up to point on bar drill small hole for spring. I'm pretty sure I also fitted a clutch spring to bar and bought new springs similar to stk but different length
What was the reason for the clutch spring?
Can you snap a photo showing what you've done by chance?
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I made one from steel flat bar 1/8 x 1/2 mounted horizontally.I called Wilwood today about it, they wanted pictures to see if I did something wrong with the install :/ Anyway, sent them few pics and short video showing the side to side slop.
Will follow up with them on it tomorrow, and let you guys know. Looking at closely, it seems that another 1-2 thin shims/spacers would help remove this slop.
On another note, what are you guys doing with the stock gas pedal return spring? It was mounted to the stock pedal box, but with the stock pedal box removed are you guys fabricating something for it to attach to?
drilled 2 holes to mount on lower studs of 2 masters reinstalled nuts. bar extends towards gas Pedal. hook spring on pedal pull up to point on bar drill small hole for spring. I'm pretty sure I also fitted a clutch spring to bar and bought new springs similar to stk but different lengthLeave a comment:
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I called Wilwood today about it, they wanted pictures to see if I did something wrong with the install :/ Anyway, sent them few pics and short video showing the side to side slop.
Will follow up with them on it tomorrow, and let you guys know. Looking at closely, it seems that another 1-2 thin shims/spacers would help remove this slop.
On another note, what are you guys doing with the stock gas pedal return spring? It was mounted to the stock pedal box, but with the stock pedal box removed are you guys fabricating something for it to attach to?Leave a comment:
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No I haven't, but probably should have. It really annoys me that they ship like that, I feel like they should not have any side-to-side at all from the factory!
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Have you guys added any thin spacers to the wilwood pedal assembly to remove the side-to-side slop?
I forget where I've read about someone running into this issue as well. I'll call wilwood tomorrow to get their input maybe they have some right size washers.Leave a comment:
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Yep I have the balance bar adjuster on mine too and needed to grind down a small amount to clear the cable.Leave a comment:
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I had that problem as well. Here's the interference, with more master travel left:

What I did to fix the issue:

I have a post about this on my build thread if you take a look. I have full pedal travel now, with the remote adjuster installed.Leave a comment:
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Installed the shorter masters, man what a pita it is to install still. I REALLY don't like the tight fit against the main chassis harness under the dash, I'd really recommend to wrap the section in good tape, to avoid getting the wire insulation failure against the bracket mount.
Tomorrow I'll have to remove it again, and make a couple adjustments, and drill the firewall for the 3 front mounting bolts.
Also, pretty sure the wilwood remote balance bar adjuster won't work when we are using the pedal box with the mounting bracket in the e30. The mounting bracket is in the way.
I need to upload a couple of pics to show what I mean, but pretty sure it's a no go.Leave a comment:
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I just ordered another set of wilwood cylinders and the balance bar adjuster as well from summit. I have no idea how I ended up with the big/long wilwood cylinders, DOH!
Since my car is non-abs, I'll be adding that wilwood 2in, 3 out prop valve under the hood as well, and it will also act as a T.Leave a comment:
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^^This -My set up is garagistic mount and wilwood master pedal set up, adj bias valve in rear brake line- replaces stock valve- bias bar set slightly to front. and yes I had to take the pedals out and reset grrr...cable bias bar knob. E36 front brakes/ e30M3 rear. Textar/Pagid stk pads. ABS sys. still plumbed in . rough set f/r bias by panic stops on gravel road using rear proportioning valve and interior cableAnd then the adjustable prop valve allows you to control the pressure that reaches the rear brakes.
I spoke with a Wilwood rep at a car show a while back about this setup- he said that it's best to have the bias bar setup neutral or slightly towards the front, and then to adjust the braking with the prop valve...Leave a comment:
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And then the adjustable prop valve allows you to control the pressure that reaches the rear brakes.
I spoke with a Wilwood rep at a car show a while back about this setup- he said that it's best to have the bias bar setup neutral or slightly towards the front, and then to adjust the braking with the prop valve...Leave a comment:
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To adjust the bias, you have to completely remove the pedals and take them apart. This is a huge pain. A quick initial set up, and a remote bias adjuster allows you to fine tune your brake bias without taking it all apart.Leave a comment:
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Just making sure, because I'm not sure why you need the bias valve if you have the Wilwood balance bar adjuster? Isn't the adjuster changing the bias in this case?
As for dropping the column, the pic below is the Garagistic bracket with the compact MCs and fittings installed on my car. The column in this pic is at factory height. There's a metal tab on the column where the right MC fitting sits, which has to be bent to avoid contact with the fitting. Using the compact MC and dropping the column gives you extra clearance needed to install and tighten the fittings, however I'm just not sure if you can get 2.2+ inches of extra clearance for the regular MCs without the column being too low or possibly affecting steering operation.
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