M62TU swap

[36brua]

https://i.imgur.com/vtLdV5g.jpg?1

I have my reservoirs in approx same location. mount them as high as you can above master cylinders and check your clearance to make sure you can sill remove the valve cover. GL with your project

[CorvallisBMW]

Cool, sub'd

[JoeMadoo]

Thanks fellas. Will post more updates after Thanksgiving.

[Jean]

Also, check clearance against the driver side wiring harness against your res...and also if you plan on running a strut bar that too needs to be checked.

Ask me how I know LOL

[JoeMadoo]

5 lug Front Suspention/Brakes

E36 non-M front strut, strut mount
E36 non-M bilstein shocks, Bavauto lowering springs
96+ E36 M3 front spindle
21mm E30 vert sway bar with E36 M3 sway bar links
E30 M3 offset CA bushings
E30 M3 steering rack
E36 M3 front brake caliper (60mm piston) -- E30 is 48mm
E36 m3 rotor (315x28mm) -- E30 is 260/22
E30 SS lines

All this stuff is pretty well documented on the web, unless anyone wants more pictures or info, I'll move on.





5 Lug Rear suspension

E30 trailing arm with new rubber trailing arm bushings.
Modified rear subframe by Garagistic, adding trailing arm reinforcements/eccentrics/hardware.
Garagistic soft poly subframe mounts.
E30 bilstein shock
E30 B+G lowering springs
E30 14mm sway bar
Z3/6 5 lug wheel hubs
E30/6 wheel bearing
E30 CV axles

Rear Brakes

I especially wanted to cover my rear brake setup because I haven't seen this particular brake combination documented very much and I think it's a good affordable big brake option for 5 luggers.

E46 325i caliper (40mm piston) -- E30 is 33mm I believe
E46 pads
E87 1 Series rotor (300x20mm vented) -- E30 is 258x10 solid
SRS concepts brake caliper bracket adapter
-3AN lines with m10 bubble flares (11 inches long)

The SRS Comcepts bracket allows you to install the caliper in either a higher or lower position than the factory caliper. I installed it in the lower position because I like the way it looks, even though it meant swapping sides on the caliper and having to make custom lines. The caliper is positioned roughly a half inch inward towards the car than it was before. The 1 series rotor as a taller "hat" than an e46 rotor and sits perfectly inside the caliper.

You can also see here the dust shield is not as functional as before. It needs to be bent out of the way of the larger 300mm vented rotor. The new radial position of the caliper means more cutting and a new gap in the dust shield. Since the parking brake shoes and brake line attached to it, I couldn't just remove it either. I think it's still somewhat functional.






Engine bay brake plumbing for manual brakes

I am keeping the factory proportioning valve because the big front and rear rotors (actually pad surface areas) and very similar to the factory proportion. Pictured here is the LF brake line and rear line. I am using -3an male / M10 femail adapters secured to the firewall. I didn't like the look of the Garagistic plumbing kit that they sell, and I wanted something more "modular". The last port pictured will be for the slave cylinder. I am planning on putting the last adapter for the RF brake on the passenger side firewall and running the line on the inside of the car, instead of behind the engine across the firewall. Thoughts?



Once I finish plumbing up the Wilwood pedals on the inside of the car I will post some pictures.

[alistairolsen]

I'm sure you've checked, but pad area is almost completely irrelevant to anything apart from heat capacity. You need to check the brake torque balance.

[JoeMadoo]

I'm sure you've checked, but pad area is almost completely irrelevant to anything apart from heat capacity. You need to check the brake torque balance.

I've done quite a bit of reading on brake bias and brake torque. I think this is a good starting point. Once I can do some tests out on the road I will be able to fine tune the brake bias with the balance bar.

[JoeMadoo]

Here's a little open-header teaser for you guys.

https://youtu.be/MOzKmULF8tY

[JoeMadoo]

I started using a new image hosting site, here's a link to my swap album

Now that I know the engine runs, I've been starting to button up the rest of the swap.

WIRING

The wiring has been pretty painless so far, thanks to Kassel Performance.



I basically shoved as much wiring as I can into the glove box to keep it out of the engine bay. Still working on tidying up the interior wiring.



C101 car side and engine side (made by Kassel)

I found that Kassel did not include the oil level sensor (pin 2 and 10), fuel rate (pin 3), service reset (pin 11). I don't really need these in there.
I also found that he added a pin for car speed, pin 14. Not sure if the computer really needs to know this for my purposes.



C101 extension to passenger side - Basically just wanted to move this to make room for the reservoirs and not have any wiring going across the firewall for a cleaner look. They are hidden behind the blower motor cover.



More to come...

[Mykk540i/6]

That looks like a residual pressure valve for rear drum/front rotor set ups.

[dinkman94]

looking forward to your For Sale thread when the build is fully done :)

[JoeMadoo]

That looks like a residual pressure valve for rear drum/front rotor set ups.

It's a factory rear disc brake car

looking forward to your For Sale thread when the build is fully done

LOL don't hold your breath

[JoeMadoo]

I apologize for the lack of updates. I've been a busy boy.

I've put about 1500 miles on my e30 since the m62 swap. And they were fantastic.

[pondhopper]

Links to swap album no works....

[pondhopper]

What size rims are you running.