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5.3 LS Swap into 91 318i

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  • DividedBeing
    replied
    Originally posted by Elysian View Post
    You can usually rent a tank from your local gas supplier.
    Definitely. I've looked at the cost long term though, and I'd rather just own my own tank. I can get a pretty decent size tank between $100-$300, so not a big deal. I'm just trying to push to the lower end of that spectrum.
    I actually have a line on a free tank, I just need the opportunity to go check it out.

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  • Elysian
    replied
    You can usually rent a tank from your local gas supplier.

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  • DividedBeing
    replied
    Overall, pretty proud for my first time. Looking forward to more practice, especially when I can find a reasonably priced shielding gas tank.

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  • DividedBeing
    replied
    Had to wait for a plug adapter so I could hook my welder up to my generator. I made a valve spring compressor so I can put my engine back together, so I'll be doing that tomorrow.

    Here's some photos --Used 3/16" Steel Flat bar and a 3" Cast Iron c-clamp from Harbor Freight. Cost me $10 for the flat bar, and $3 for the c-clamp.
    You can see the base/clamp bolts up to the rocker arm mounts, and then the clamp pushes down on the top of the valve springs so I can insert the keepers.

    Finished:
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    Before Welding. I actually made a different base plate for the final version because this one didn't fit as well as it should

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    The best weld ended up being where the head mounts to the rest of the clamp. I was using flux core which makes for ugly welds anyway,
    but this is literally my first time welding anything, so I had to spend some time screwing with feed speed and all that.

    Not to mention, I went over the base edges a few times just to make sure they were good and strong.

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    Other Side:

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    Light grinding/wire wheel and BBQ paint.
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  • DividedBeing
    replied
    Originally posted by jbontke View Post
    never min, I didn't see page two of this
    The cool shots with the tube front end aren't mine! They're a local guy's car that I'm drawing inspiration from.

    Plan on having mine look like that though. I'm going to go with log manifolds for the turbo and having the exhaust route out of the fender somewhere.

    You're totally right about the 4.8 with a cam being more than enough power for this chassis -- I've always wanted to turbo charge a v8 though, and it's pretty cheap to accomplish, especially with the standalone system I'll be using.

    I'm 90% sure I'll be able to run AC in my setup, especially with the extra clearance from a tube front end, and the mid-case diffs are apparently strong enough to handle what I'm going to throw at it.
    The weak link is going to be the axles, so I'll eventually splurge on those.

    This is going to be part street car, part track toy.

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  • jbontke
    replied
    never min, I didn't see page two of this

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  • jbontke
    replied
    Sweet, I have a similar project I am collecting parts for. 1987 4dr, 4.8 and T56. I REALLY suggest buying the headers from sikky, they ain't cheap, but if you have ever tried making headers these will pay for them selves. As for power, I am expecting the 4.8 to wind up well with a small cam. No other mods besides a tune. The torque from the 4.8 will easily move the car and fire off the tires. Any more I think jeopardizes the diff. I want longevity and AC in my build.

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  • DividedBeing
    replied
    Well, the next thing I want to do on the car itself is remove the core support. I bought some spot weld cutter bits that won't be here until Monday.

    In the mean time, I decided to spend money at Harbor Freight today and start an arts and crafts project that will help me get my motor back together.

    Ended up buying a metal chop saw, angle grinder, and a few other tools that will be helpful for welding.

    I saw some videos of guys making their own valve spring compressors and I really liked this design.

    Cut up a $3 C-Clamp and some steel flat bar. Drilled holes in the flat bar. Still need to cut/drill another piece of flat bar to go over top of the valve springs.

    The part with the top of the c-clamp will bolt into the rocker mounts, amd press down on another piece of flat bar over top of the springs so I can get keepers back in. This will be my first welding 'project.'
    Figured I'm just going to use flux core for this since I don't have a CO2 tank yet.

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    If I can get this welded up tomorrow, I'll lap the valves, put my heads back together and get them back on my engine.

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  • DividedBeing
    replied
    Originally posted by Elysian View Post
    I've seen people do it that way (spot welds), I decided to go a different route since my drivers side frame rail had minor damage at the bumper mount. Lopped mine off about 6" behind the core, a couple inches in front of the bottom of the wheel well. The replacement core I have is flawless, I'll make some tabs to bolt it all together. Have a pic of where mine is now, with just the core cut off, in one of the recent posts in my thread if you want to see it.

    Something I did that helped me pick up MIG welding is built a welding table out of steel I got from a local supplier. It was good practice. I did weld a little bit in auto body class in high school, but I graduated in 2000, so
    I looked up plans for easy welding tables, and I think you're totally right. I think I'll build one as soon as I can get my hands on a CO2 tank.

    I was looking around at my core support today and didn't see obvious spots where all the spot welds are, but I'm sure it's just a matter of me being blind. I'll have to track down a thread on here where someone removes their support. Will make test fitting the engine and building mounts 1000% easier.

    Pulled the harness, degreased/power washed my engine bay, removed the coils, brake booster, and other odds and ends around the bay. The booster was way more of a pain in the ass to remove than I expected, mostly due to trying to figure out how the pin that connects the pedal to the booster comes out. Also, I couldn't have removed the 4 bolts holding it to the body without my 1/4" Milwaukee impact driver and some extensions. That thing has more than paid for itself at this point. I'll never work on another car without one.

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  • Elysian
    replied
    I've seen people do it that way (spot welds), I decided to go a different route since my drivers side frame rail had minor damage at the bumper mount. Lopped mine off about 6" behind the core, a couple inches in front of the bottom of the wheel well. The replacement core I have is flawless, I'll make some tabs to bolt it all together. Have a pic of where mine is now, with just the core cut off, in one of the recent posts in my thread if you want to see it.

    Something I did that helped me pick up MIG welding is built a welding table out of steel I got from a local supplier. It was good practice. I did weld a little bit in auto body class in high school, but I graduated in 2000, so

    Leave a comment:


  • DividedBeing
    replied
    Originally posted by Elysian View Post
    First time welding is a E30 V8 swap, sounds just like me Any plans to make the core removable? I put my 302 in with the core in place and it was such a pain. Recently cut the core off to start making it removable and wow, such access. Highly recommend.
    Haha, I'm going to practice a lot, so hopefully I can get up to speed quick. I plan on welding my own subframe reinforcements and all that too. MIG doesn't seem like rocket science fortunately, but when you watch people on youtube with skills, they always make what they do look way easier.

    For the core, If I'm remembering correctly, you just have to drill out some spot welds and replace them with rivnuts, right? I planned on looking at it a little closer once I started trying to mock things up.

    I'd really like to do a fancy tube front end like a local guy has going on for his swap. I need to make a drive to go check it out when him and I both have time.

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  • Elysian
    replied
    First time welding is a E30 V8 swap, sounds just like me Any plans to make the core removable? I put my 302 in with the core in place and it was such a pain. Recently cut the core off to start making it removable and wow, such access. Highly recommend.

    Leave a comment:


  • DividedBeing
    replied
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    E30 LS Swap - Budget 5.3 (Part 7) - Pulling M42 Engine and Getrag 240 Transmission From E30


    Video posted. My brain is pretty fried from this crazy head cold I picked up from my biohazard spewing nieces and nephews at a family get together. I get a little loopy in some parts
    Last edited by DividedBeing; 12-28-2019, 10:43 PM.

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  • DividedBeing
    replied
    Giant milestone today. Got the M42/Getrag 240 out. I've got a buyer for the M42 already so hopefully I can make that transaction in the next few days. I'll post up the GR240 in classifieds as soon as I get it separated. Feel free to let me know if you want it.

    Will post the video either today or tomorrow.




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  • DividedBeing
    replied
    Added a new video today.
    E30 LS Swap - Budget 5.3 (Part 6) - Disconnecting M42 Harness And Attachments For Removal

    Leave a comment:

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