Originally posted by ADEN
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S52 Engine Screeching Noise Issue
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Originally posted by Lights View Post
I'm thinking the input shaft on the transmission could be messed up or the flywheel and clutch setup won't work. I can't find anywhere about anyone using a M54 330i E46 flywheel and clutch on an S52.
The other thing I read is the slave cylinder has a push rod that has different lengths for different engines but I can't see how that would be making the noise unless its grinding/ rattling against the clutch fork.
For your case push rod thing if it is touching the release bearing you would feel it by gears slipping or car starts moving when your foot at the top of the pedal travel.
If you can get your hands on a used DMF with clutch kit i think m5x came with DMF and read that people who converted to single mass complained some issues including noises.
Last edited by ADEN; 07-21-2021, 12:49 PM.
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Originally posted by ADEN View PostI'm having the same problem and this thread really saved me money i was about to buy another tranny but now i will keep my focus on the flywheel, clutch set up and both pilot and release bearings.
Maybe it is block to transmission alignment problem or clutch to input shaft alignment... Since m5x sets on diffrent angle in e30s.
The other thing I read is the slave cylinder has a push rod that has different lengths for different engines but I can't see how that would be making the noise unless its grinding/ rattling against the clutch fork.
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I'm having the same problem and this thread really saved me money i was about to buy another tranny but now i will keep my focus on the flywheel, clutch set up and both pilot and release bearings.
Maybe it is block to transmission alignment problem or clutch to input shaft alignment... Since m5x sets on diffrent angle in e30s.
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Originally posted by mjweimer View PostI know this is a lot of work but have you run the engine with the transmission out of the car? If the noise is still present then remove the clutch disc + PP....still present then remove the flywheel....and go from there.
Still curious what transmission set-up is in the car. Doesn't the back side of the M20/G260 flywheel rub the M5x/S5x oil pan without machining the back of the flywheel slightly?
This is the clutch I have in it https://www.ecstuning.com/b-valeo-pa.../52401220~val/Last edited by Lights; 07-20-2021, 03:52 PM.
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I know this is a lot of work but have you run the engine with the transmission out of the car? If the noise is still present then remove the clutch disc + PP....still present then remove the flywheel....and go from there.
Still curious what transmission set-up is in the car. Doesn't the back side of the M20/G260 flywheel rub the M5x/S5x oil pan without machining the back of the flywheel slightly?
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Or flywheel bolts?
Could be thrust bearing related.
Sounds pretty harsh for a pilot bearing.
What happens in gear rolling?
Try digging around with a stethoscope?
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Originally posted by moatilliatta View PostThe sound sounds at engine RPM and not 1/2 speed from cams / valve train.
Are you’re crank hub bolts too long?
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The sound sounds at engine RPM and not 1/2 speed from cams / valve train.
Are your crank hub bolts too long?Last edited by moatilliatta; 07-20-2021, 02:54 AM.
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I put the head back on and started it, same noise. I pressed in on the clutch and it went away. So I knew it had to be in the clutch. I removed the transmission replaced the pilot bearing and throw out bearing, re-installed all the clutch parts. Nothing looked damaged and the only thing not replaced was the clutch fork and the slave cylinder.
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Originally posted by Northern View PostI'd try to blast through whatever crud is there with some carb cleaner or something similarly strong. Soak a bit then blast it through with some compressed air.
Rinse and repeat and hopefully it will come back.
Alternatively you can remove the clip that holds the ball and spring. I'm not sure how tight it's going to be/if you risk damaging the retaining piece - this pic is from one that wasn't seated right from the factory that I managed to work loose with a pick. The ball and spring are tiny so be careful not to lose them
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I'd try to blast through whatever crud is there with some carb cleaner or something similarly strong. Soak a bit then blast it through with some compressed air.
Rinse and repeat and hopefully it will come back.
Alternatively you can remove the clip that holds the ball and spring. I'm not sure how tight it's going to be/if you risk damaging the retaining piece - this pic is from one that wasn't seated right from the factory that I managed to work loose with a pick. The ball and spring are tiny so be careful not to lose them
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I took apart the lifters to clean the ball bearing inside and found 4 bearings that seem to not retract when I squeeze them without the spring inside. Can anyone confirm that these are bad and need replaced? This happened after I let them soak in detergent for a couple of hours and only happens on 4 of the 24. When I pick at the ball bearing it is firm and does not really move around when I push it down. I think I am going to replace all of the intake lifters because that is the only side where I found this issue. Can I replace the lifters without replacing the tray?
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Good deal. At least you know the lifter tick issue should be resolved. Don't forget it takes a bit for the lifters to bleed out all of the air so you will likely hear some ticking once you start and may need to follow the bleeding procedure.
This is a great article for future reference:
The two most common reasons for the replacement of BMW hydraulic bucket tappets (HVA) found in M42, M44, M50, M52, M54, M60, M62, S50, S52 and S62 engines are: tapping/rattling noise from the valve train area or a binding HVA element. Tapping/rattling noise from the valve train area may have various different causes depending on
Look forward to the next update, you are making good progress.
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