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new to us e30 325es, new here, and have questions

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    new to us e30 325es, new here, and have questions

    HI all. My son and I just picked up a one-owner 1986 325es that will be his daily. Has about 225,000 miles. It's white, 5 speed, no modifications. Our neighbor bought it new and finally decided to get rid of it. He's not mechanically inclined and the upkeep was getting to be too much. He has all service records. He's not an enthusiast nor did he go all out on oem parts so its not a great example, but well documented so good place to start. We're located in southern California and we're no strangers to wrenching or to BMWs. My daily for the last 10 years is an e39 M5. I've raced superspec miatas so lots of wrenching there, and currently also daily a 1969 crown vic swapped ford f100. Ive done a couple engine swaps and lots of maintenance/upgrades and my son, 19, has also done his own engine swap, replacing a blown engine on his first/current car, a 2006 Volvo V50 wagon.
    His long term plan for this car is an M60/M62 V8 swap, same as Garagistic did I think.


    It has a number of issues though I'd love some feedback on. I have done some research on these as well. There seems to be a treasure trove of info here so looking forward to digging in.

    1. He recently lost 2nd gear. Car drives great and can shift from 1st to 3rd fine. So I assume it needs a new transmission. I've read the early vs late differences, the es vs is differences.
    These cars dont seem to show up in the local junkyards very often though.
    What are the best sources for used transmissions, or rebuilt transmissions? Used or rebuilt, is one better? Sometimes rebuilt trans aren't done well and don't last.

    2. Speedo, fuel gauge (and possibly temp, didn't notice) don't work at all. Since both don't work I'm guessing the SI board needs refurbishing? thoughts/advice? Its a later model cluster with the 7 indicator lights.

    3. Door lock on drivers side doesn't work. I can unlock the doors from passenger side and that does open the driver door, but turning the key in driver lock does not open any doors. What am I looking at here? New door lock?

    4. Power window on drivers side when reaches top seems to want to continue, clicking against the top door frame. is this something that can be fixed or needs new part?

    5. Trunk shuts but does not sit flat or tight. When closed it stays latched but you can push it down like 1/2" and it pops back up, The plunger thingy on the underside of trunk seems to only go in part way, which seems to be what's keeping the trunk from closing tight. is this serviceable or needs replacing?

    6. damn the shifter is sloppy. Will be replacing bushings there.

    7. The most worrisome of the lot: There's an electrical drain in the car. He had installed a knob on the negative battery cable at the post, so he turned the knob, disconnecting the neg, to disconnect the battery and keeping it from draining when he parks it.
    When connected the dash indicator lights, yellow and red ones, two far right ones, are lit. This is without the key in ignition. That whole knob thing is super janky. He seems to have had some questionable radio and antenna install also. Not sure where to start on this issue.



    Any advice is welcome!

    #2
    The most worrisome of the lot:
    when was the timing belt last done?

    Start there. Everything else will follow.

    1- 'lost 2nd' - as in, there's no gear there? Or the synchro won't let you shift into 2nd. See 6- you may simply not be able to engage it.
    The 260s are getting hard to find- and unfortunately with the eta motor, you can't use a later M5x trans.

    2- http://www.wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm is the best place to start.

    3- maybe as simple as the linkage has come apart.

    4- there's a stop adjustment if you take the door panel off- details depend on year and month manufacture of your car www.realoem.com for diagrams

    5- take the latch apart. They can break, but they can also loosen and slip out of adjustment. Getting the plastic off is a pain in the butt.

    7- time to use your multimeter set to milliamps. Go through the fuse box one at a time. If that's not it, the alternator's a classic- leaky diodes, they say.
    The switch on the battery post's a time- honored fix.

    t
    now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by TobyB View Post

      when was the timing belt last done?

      Start there. Everything else will follow.

      1- 'lost 2nd' - as in, there's no gear there? Or the synchro won't let you shift into 2nd.

      The switch on the battery post's a time- honored fix.

      t
      Thanks for the info. So it’s an interference engine then lol. Looking at his repair log and receipts looks like timing belt was replaced 25,000 miles ago, but that was 10 years ago. So that’s first. Saw a video and doesn’t look difficult, just tedious.

      shifting to second gear gets you nothing. Goes to a stopping point but not engaging at all, no gear there.
      also getting into reverse requires pushing shifter against the shifter console/surround (and pushing it aside a bit). Going to check the linkage to make sure it’s not come loose. Shifters sloppy too, another common thing I'm reading. Probably needs new motor and transmission mounts too.
      will be replacing all the fluids-Redline MTL for trans.

      thanks again.

      Comment


        #4
        1.) I would rebuild the linkage and see of that resolves the issue. A broke shift fork would keep the car in 1st/2nd gear. When you replace the DSSR, you can manually move the shift linkage and see if you can go into 2nd gear. I suggest a z3 shifter, new shifter bushings, aftermarket DSSR, and replace the part that connects the DSSR to the trans. Also look into the shifter mount plate vs rod and replace bushings/rubber as needed. New trans/engine mounts will also help with the shifter. That may get 2nd back for you. Also Redline MT90 will help with the shifting.

        2.) There is a common ground below the dash that has a bunch of brown wires going to a 10mm nut, try cleaning that and see if it helps the dash gauges.

        3.) There is a switch inside the driver door that operates the central locking system. Pull the door panel, put the window up, and look and see. An arm on the lock should interact with the switch.

        4.) I don't have any answers here. Sorry.

        5.) Never had this issue, cant help. Again. sorry.

        6.) refer to #1

        7.) Look for wires that are not OEM and remove them. I would start under the steering column and behind the radio.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jbontke View Post
          1.) I would rebuild the linkage and see of that resolves the issue. A broke shift fork would keep the car in 1st/2nd gear. When you replace the DSSR, you can manually move the shift linkage and see if you can go into 2nd gear. I suggest a z3 shifter, new shifter bushings, aftermarket DSSR, and replace the part that connects the DSSR to the trans. Also look into the shifter mount plate vs rod and replace bushings/rubber as needed. New trans/engine mounts will also help with the shifter. That may get 2nd back for you. Also Redline MT90 will help with the shifting.

          2.) There is a common ground below the dash that has a bunch of brown wires going to a 10mm nut, try cleaning that and see if it helps the dash
          3and .
          thank you!

          Comment

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