Okay, what the hell. My car is haunted.
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I'm drawing about 90 mA at the moment, so it's a bit past the test light's capabilities.
Looks like I blew my DMM's current fuse at some point, though. Damn.Comment
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That may be why stereoinstaller uses a test light first. Anyhow, 90mA is not that much and really should not kill your battery quickly. How fast does the battery die? Are you checking this with the trunk light unplugged? Have you checked to see the draw with the trunk closed to check that drain?
I hate test lights because you may think you are getting enough voltage somewhere because the light lights up, but without being able to quantify a voltage or current reading you can't be sure, so you go for the DMM anyhow. I skip the test light step, but I do have many uses for a self powered test light that is able to provide power or ground to a terminal at the push of a button.-P
Moosehead EngineeringComment
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Yeah, I depress the trunk-closed-sensor when checking it. It's currently not bad, it was a lot worse before when the drain was up around 160 due to my old HU, and the car was standing in NJ... would die in about a week. It's not a problem now, I would just like to find the leaking component before it short-circuits completely on the inside and goes bad for reals.Comment
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Test lights work great as a high-tech digital troubleshooting device.
They're either on, or off. That's very useful, sometimes. Like "Is this circuit live, or not?"
Start pulling fuses and watch the amperage draw.sigpic
Mike
'91 325i track car. Mostly...Comment
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it's been well over a month. it was a month on the 28th of march. i got the report, faxed it in, they received it, and all of a sudden they want to talk to edwin.
Originally posted by ROLLingKINGi have a bronzit and plan on making it look sweet.Originally posted by slammin.e28Moral of this story?
If you drive your e30 on stairs, you're gonna have a bad time.Comment


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