Electrical nightmare and I am out of ideas

[cyrillink]

I would check the crank position sensor.

The ECU will only kick the pump on if a signal from the CPS is received.

No spark/no fuel is a common symptom of a bad CPS or damaged wiring.

In some cases, after a timing belt is done, the wiring for the CPS won't be tucked back behind the clip that secures it away from the water pump belt and it's possible for it to be cut by the pulley or belt.

Maybe you forgot to connect it all together? The connector is underneath the OBD0 port and I believe the plug is interchangeable with the other plug that is fastened to the same bracket. So, if you had swapped the plugs, the car wont start since there is no signal from the CPS.

Appreciate the response.
Sensor reading 520 ohm, within the BMW 10% spec. I though it was an issue as well.
I replaced it with a brand new one when i was just starting out. I think it is damaged cables. Not sure where to start looking though

[MrBurgundy]

I would check the crank position sensor.

The ECU will only kick the pump on if a signal from the CPS is received.

No spark/no fuel is a common symptom of a bad CPS or damaged wiring.

In some cases, after a timing belt is done, the wiring for the CPS won't be tucked back behind the clip that secures it away from the water pump belt and it's possible for it to be cut by the pulley or belt.

Maybe you forgot to connect it all together? The connector is underneath the OBD0 port and I believe the plug is interchangeable with the other plug that is fastened to the same bracket. So, if you had swapped the plugs, the car wont start since there is no signal from the CPS.

[cyrillink]

Hey team,
Just wanted to start of by thank you to all the contributors. you guys/gals made it keeping this car much easier.

Background story, e30 07/1987 convertible cabriolet bought by my father in law with 4 miles on the title. Still have the original title.
The car was in rough shape. It survived Sandy and sat outside for about 12 years until it was gifted to me.

When i got it was dead as door nob. I replaced the starter, Injectors, new bat, all new filters all the basics and was able to start it!
She did not sound very happy when she ran, almost like the belt was stretched/skipped a tooth.
I wanted to get the car back to its original glory.
Kept the engine in but removed the head, replaced all the bolts, valve seals, cams seals, crank seal, oil pump seal, polished the head up really nicely
cleaned all the valves the whole 9 yards.

Put everything back in and the following is happening.
She Cracks very strong sounds very health! much better then before.

No spark no fuel.
Did the 30/87 short on fuel, strong! pressure at close to 40psi

Noticed the following,

The main relay buzzes, which means there is a short somewhere.
Connected OHM meter to the body and positive terminal getting 1.2 ohm which mean closed circuit! not good.
Pulled out all the relay and i mean all, Still and 1.2 ohm

When I pulled the fuses fuse 6,8,10 dropped the OHM to 40ohms body to positive (bmw states it should say 1000ohm or 1k ohms, normal operating)

Fuses 6,8,10 - means something in the back is going.

So i did some investigating. all the wires seem good in the back by the taillights.
i shook the cables in the back to see if i can stop the close loop beeping on the multi meter, nothing changed. the ominous beeping still haunts me.
Disconnected the rear lights both left and right since in figured the issue was causes. still beeping 1.2 ohm.
Disconnected all the sensors, oil pressure, cold start sensor, water temp, Electro fan. still beeping 1.2 ohm.
Disconnected ECU main plug and the DME main plug, - still beeping 1.2 ohm
Disconnected the reverse backup lamp - you guested it still beeping 1.2 ohm
Disconnected the c101 - still beeping 1.2 ohm

Started is connected, Alternator still connected

Noticed a huge tear in the positive to the coil by the battery - so i cut it, re-soldered and heat shrunk it, even re-soldered together the shielding around the positive cable.

After test again I have the multi-Meter going from the large positive which goes into the fuse box and the body/engine. Still getting 1.2 ohm and beeping.


Everything is still disconnected hanging out.
i'm at a loss right now.
I was planning changing some of the connectors for brake pad and things like that, since all the connectors are crumbling in my hands. I do wan to make sure the car runs before i start making a new parts of the harness.

Any recommendations?
and just want to say thank you in advance.