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e30 1993 318i Touring - Rev Issue

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    e30 1993 318i Touring - Rev Issue

    Hey all,

    New to e30's and this forum, so, apologies if this post isn't in the correct location. I've recently acquired a 1993 318i touring, equipped with an M40B18 (not M42, it's a SOHC). The car was imported some time in 2021, and I bought it end of 2022.
    I also have a '74 2002 that I've just about replaced every nut and bolt on. So I'm familiar with the OLDER generation of BMW's :)

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    The only real issues with the car as is sits now is that it won't rev all the way up to redline and some lag.
    • "Rev limit" when in neutral, sitting stationary: ~4500-4700 RPM
      • When it hits the limit in neutral, the car starts to shake a little bit, almost indicative of a misfire
    • "Rev limit" when driving, seemingly regardless of what gear I'm in: 4000 RPM
      • When it hits the limit when driving, I don't necessarily feel the shake, it just feels like the engine isn't making any more power with the additional accelerator input
    • There is also a "lag" at low RPM when I'm giving it a quick throttle input. If I'm idling and I stomp on the pedal, the engine stutters a bit and lags before it starts increasing RPM

    Few things I've checked so far:
    • Fuel filter - just changed to a new one. I did note that the filter that was in the car was facing the wrong direction (flow pointing away from engine). It is now pointing in the correct direction.
    • Fuel pump/regulator
      • Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge right at the "fuel feed" hardline on the driver side of the engine before it goes into the fuel rail
      • Confirmed I'm getting a little over 3 bar when the car is off and I "jump" the fuel pump relay (I used a fused harness between 30 and 87)
      • Confirmed I'm getting just about or a little over 3 bar when the car is on and the vacuum line is disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator
      • Confirmed I'm getting a little UNDER 3 bar when the car is on and the vacuum line is connected
    • Verified throttle body is opening all of the way with accelerator
    • Changed spark plugs
    • Verified there isn't a spring-like mechanism inside the distributor that might limit spark (see attached image)
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    Things to-do on the immediate horizon:
    • I've purchased one of the R5 FCX3 scan/reset tools. I initially tried to do the stomp test to get some codes from the CEL, but apparently the CEL isn't always wired up to the DME in some of the Euro cars?? That was fun to learn.
      • I plan to use this to hopefully get some info out of the DME
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    • Unrelated (or maybe it is), I had a leak in one of the expansion tank fuel lines going from the top passenger side of the fuel tank to the expansion tank in the rear right tire well.
      • New lines on order to replace
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    Other avenues to explore, that I haven't quite gotten to yet:
    • Clogged injectors? Is that a thing?
    • Timing/advance could be off? I have a timing light but I haven't checked this yet.
    • Some hard limit in the DME? Can I just swap a DME from another 318i?
    • Bad coil? Not sure how to check this.
    • I haven't messed around with the AFM

    Now here's the kicker. After much research on the various engine swaps, I am planning to M54B30 swap this car towards the end of this year (thanks to Jordan's excellent swap guide). My car is definitely drivable as it is right now. I can still get up to ~80 MPH on the highway, but I just can't have fun with it.
    I am not going to put in a lot of "negative money" on parts that couldn't also be used for the M54 swap into this car right now. Example: I would have bought a new fuel pump, because it seems like that can satisfy the M54's fuel demand, but I probably wouldn't buy new injectors unless I can get them for a good price.

    Disclaimer, I know very little about DME/ECU programming, modifications, etc. I'm proficient with wiring and electrical tools, I just haven't really had to do it in the past, so I haven't picked up that skill yet. I'm obviously going to have to with the M54 swap, but I may ask a few extra questions now :)

    So, what do you guys think? What am I missing, or what have I overlooked?
    Thanks in advance!!

    #2
    bad news is likely worn cam. it's a common m40 complaint. go check out e30net in the uk. they have a few threads on it.
    good news is you' ve got the answer in the engine swap ready. it'll be fantastic after. won't harm to run it as is for now but i wouldn't plow into fixing the m40.

    see what others say.

    Comment


      #3
      Yes, worn cam is likely. The kit to fix it is cheap enough, but probably not worth it for you. Alternately, the AFM may be worn out, again this is probably not worth fixing for you. The only other items might be ignition related, so for free you can test the coil (look it up, find the right guide that explains it best for you), check resistance on the wires, put a spark tester on each wire, and look at the plugs.

      Out of curiosity what sort of MPG are you getting? A healthy M40 should be right around 30 combined.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by roguetoaster View Post
        Out of curiosity what sort of MPG are you getting? A healthy M40 should be right around 30 combined.
        Hmm definitely not 30 mpg. I'll check on this next go around (after I fix my expansion tank fuel lines). But more in the 20-25 MPG range if I had to guess.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by roguetoaster View Post
          Yes, worn cam is likely. The kit to fix it is cheap enough, but probably not worth it for you.
          Also, what is the "cheap kit" that you're referencing?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by nhep23 View Post

            Also, what is the "cheap kit" that you're referencing?
            Schmeidmann and other vendors did have/do have a cam, rockers and lifters as a kit. It was something like $250 IIRC. But for you I don't think that expense makes any sense, especially since it normally gets done alongside a timing belt and perhaps a water pump. It's also not a guarantee to fix your car.

            If I were you I'd pull the valve cover and inspect the lobes. Be sure to torque the VC bolts back to spec.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by nhep23 View Post

              Hmm definitely not 30 mpg. I'll check on this next go around (after I fix my expansion tank fuel lines). But more in the 20-25 MPG range if I had to guess.
              sounds more and more like a worn cam. not worth fixing if you are gonna swap.

              Comment


                #8
                Well that definitely doesn't look good!
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                  #9
                  That's a classic M40 cam, at least your previous owner used synthetic oil, or maybe just believed in regular oil changes. Also noticed that you might have those optional plug wires that supposedly prevent whatever type of Euro pest from nibbling on the wires.

                  Here's mine before I changed it, and it was noticeably down on power:

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