323i still will not run:(

[2002jm]

ok, I just replaced the fuel pump, filters, cleaned injectors, relay, plugs, checked timing, and the ecu, replaced the coolant temp sensor, cleaned the fuel tank, ignition module replaced, let's see
what else:). Car gets spark and fuel, and will start, but only once and then will not start, runs rough when it does starts, and only stays running for about 20 secs.
Not sure what else to do; checked for obvious vac. leaks, new boot for the throttle body, valves adjusted, new timing belt; head gasket....the list goes on. the car was running, but very rich before we cleaned the injectors and put them back in.
Thinking about putting some oil in the cylinders to make sure of compression. Any ideas would be great. The fuel pump is priming. I put a see through filter in-line so I could see if the car had fuel; it does.'Also, I checked the coolant temp sensor it is not oem, but is within specs on the ohm meter thanks, jm

[roguetoaster]

What's the management on your M20? L-jet?

I assume if has an AFM, TPS, CTS, a dist with a vac can on board and an L jet computer. If it's not a TPS showing WOT constantly then it's probably an ignition advance/retard issue.

Silly question, it's the MT, not the AT L jet computer, right?

[82eye]

when did this occur? did it gradually become worse, or was it fine one day and suddenly bad the next? did the issue begin after engine work had been completed?
kind of wondering if it's timing related, with the belt possibly being a tooth or two off.

edit : the last time someone posted similar issues it came down to replacing the dme. that was on a later i car though.

[2002jm]

Thanks for the reply; this is a manual l-j m20 323i euro; dist. on the driver side below. It was running but rich, changed the injectors ouit and now it will not run. My friend did loosen the dist. and moved the timing to see if we could get it to run. We did mark the original position. If the timing belt is off, then it just happened. The tps clicked just as the throttle opens.
I am thinking timing, but that does not explain why it ran before we replaced the injectors with clean ones. However, it has always taken a long time to start.....timing would do that.
I do remember my mechanic friend said it was set at the "0" not the "Z" for timing....could that be the problem?
thanks, again,
jm

[2002jm]

Well, this morning I am going to loosen the distributor, and try to start the car while turning the distributor very slowly. maybe it is 22degrees off and that is causing the
problem?
jm

[roguetoaster]

Well, this morning I am going to loosen the distributor, and try to start the car while turning the distributor very slowly. maybe it is 22degrees off and that is causing the
problem?
jm

I don't think it can hurt much, also worth triple checking plug order on the cap.

[2002jm]

yeah, If the car is set to 0 then it is 22 degrees off; and maybe when we were fooling with the timing we got if off enough to make it not start. I know if has spark and fuel:).
jm

[2002jm]

So today; I lined up the timing belt cover mark to the " Z" mark on the damper The little arrows on the cam at the top are lined up to the cover. BUT, the rotor is not lined up
to the number one wire mark on the case of the distributor. It is off by about half an inch. Now you would think I could just loosen the distributor and turn it counter clockwise
and it would be timed enough to start the car; right? But no it will not turn counter clockwise. It will only turn clockwise. Not sure if it would turn 360 degrees so it would line up...
don't really want to do that. So, if I read this right the distributor needs to be pulled out and adjusted a tooth or two so I have adjustment to the clockwise side?? Any one have any links on how to pull the distributor out and put it back in correctly?
thanks for any help,
jm

[roguetoaster]

Looking at diagrams and pictures it looks like the hold down plate is the only retention system and perhaps it drives off a shaft from the oil pump, but I can't be sure. If it's not coming out after you take the plate off I would assume that the o ring on the distributor is somewhat stuck in the engine block.

I'm guessing that the toothed component on the distributor is the only allowable adjustment and I'd expect that it would go centered by default to whatever it interfaces with on the engine. The number of possible rotor positions should be predicated on the distributor drive shaft makeup, which is probably a hex shape.

As far as where the rotor should point I would assume it would point at the #1 post on the cap when at TDC 1, but I cannot confirm that.

[2002jm]

hi: yes, driven off the oil pump. The hold down plate has a marking that is for alignment with the block. I have not tried to take it out yet, will try in the morning. There is a gear at the bottom of the shaft and rotor on the top. I need to move the distributor; or rotor about half an inch to the clockwise position to get number 1 to line up with the distributor housing, but have run out of adjustment. I am assuming I can pull it out turn the gear and drop it back in, but then as I turn the housing the rotor should line up with number 1 . Have run out of adjustment. Will see in the morning what happens...:)
jm

[82eye]

hi: yes, driven off the oil pump. The hold down plate has a marking that is for alignment with the block. I have not tried to take it out yet, will try in the morning. There is a gear at the bottom of the shaft and rotor on the top. I need to move the distributor; or rotor about half an inch to the clockwise position to get number 1 to line up with the distributor housing, but have run out of adjustment. I am assuming I can pull it out turn the gear and drop it back in, but then as I turn the housing the rotor should line up with number 1 . Have run out of adjustment. Will see in the morning what happens...:)
jm

if it's the same as the e21 m20 the whole dist / shaft will come out and can be re-inserted in a different position.

edit : i can't see it working it's way out of position too far on it's own

[2002jm]

Thanks, I tried to start the car today. no go:(. I turned the distributor clockwise, and the car would not even fire; as I turned it counter clockwise it would fire but not enough to start. I think I will pull it out tomorrow and turn the distributor cc a bit; keeping the rotor in the same general direction and re-insert it and see if that help.
I think when I did the timing belt I set the damper to 0 instead of Z which puts it 22 degrees out of time and of course the distributor for some reason does not have that much adjustment. I did not take the distributor out when we rebuilt the engine....well we will see tomorrow. thanks for the input.
jm

[2002jm]

I think I have this figured out. I pulled the fuel pump fuse #11 and the car started on the first crank...not a timing problem:). Car idles fine and runs good. of course it will run out of fuel.
Then I put the fuse back in and no start....feels and smells like it is getting too much gas...the plugs were wet when I did the compression test yesterday. Compression is at 178-180 across all 6 cylinders. Pulled the fuse and pulled off the return line to the fpr. and started the car... Car ran great , but not a drop of fuel is going back to the tank...
So I am thinking the fpr is shot; maybe blocked with junk. Not sure; but at least I know the timing is good and everything else is good....since the car ran and idled so good...
Any ideas???
thanks,
jm