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Anything I am missing, also need to replace? Subframe/Drive

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    Anything I am missing, also need to replace? Subframe/Drive

    Making up a parts list so I get everything, want to know if I am forgetting anything:

    From BMWbushings or through Treehouseracing:
    Rear subframe bushings (urethane)
    Rear trailing arm bushings (urethane)
    Racing-style diff mount bushing (urethane)

    4.10 LSD ($300-350 used)

    Redline transmission fluid
    Redline diff fluid (where to get, best place?)

    Guibo/Center support bearing (already have, anything else while down there?)

    Z4 3.0L shift lever + other parts needed from Partick at BMAparts, right?

    SS Brake Lines (? where from?)

    What all in involved/required in adjustment/replacement of emergency brake shoes? I know Brandon aka Beej did a writeup on his extensive work.

    - - - - -

    If there are anythings I left off of any topic, group, please help me out. Like if I need to drop the exhaust to replace the guibo....and need to pick up exhaust gaskets, mention that. Do I?

    Thanks in advance.

    #2
    Yes, you should get the exhaust gaskets & new self-locking copper nuts for all the exhaust connections. Also new self-locking nuts for the flex disc (6) driveshaft-diff (4), trailing arms (4) subframe bolts (2) diff mount (1). I would replace the swaybar bushings while you're in there.

    You also might want to consider the trans output shaft and selector shaft seals.

    Comment


      #3
      Just an idea....get the rear diff cover off of an M Coupe while you are doing this. Dump the urethane diff bushing (the M Coupe diff cover will come with a new reinforced rubber/steel bushing). Cover goes for less than 200 bucks new - obviously less used. This will improve your cooling of your diff, and looks great. This will also reduce the vibration you will get from the drive train by a bit as compared to the urethane.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Chris325/325i
        Yes, you should get the exhaust gaskets & new self-locking copper nuts for all the exhaust connections. Also new self-locking nuts for the flex disc (6) driveshaft-diff (4), trailing arms (4) subframe bolts (2) diff mount (1). I would replace the swaybar bushings while you're in there.

        You also might want to consider the trans output shaft and selector shaft seals.
        :up: Awesome, thanks man.

        What are swaybar bushings? Are you talking about the swaybar links and the bushing included in them? (I'm planning on upgrading swaybars down the road, as in spring.....so this may wait, but thanks for mentioning)

        How difficult would those shaft seals be?

        - - -

        I don't think the M coupe cover would really be worth it.

        Comment


          #5
          Selector is easy, the Output requires a ground down 30mm Socket and a good amount of torque.
          Also maybe the rear lock nuts for the connection from the Driveshaft to the Diff.
          85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

          Comment


            #6
            eh, probably just the selector then. I'm be having to do this under jackstands in my garage, so I don't know how much work I want to get myself into, during winter break. but yeah, I want to take care of items if they could and should be done while I am at it.

            And what about flopping the rear drive halfshafts? Someone mentioned this to me, so that they turn the opposite way and extend the life of them??

            And anything else I might want to tackle while doing this mess?

            My e-brake clicks up all the way to the top and midway does not stop the car completely. I believe the shoes need to be replaced, what all is involved, can I just replace them and readjust the e-brake? Or what. Thanks

            Comment


              #7
              swaybar bushings are the rubber parts inside the brackets where they bolt up to the body. They only cost a couple $$$ so might as well do them while you are in there.

              Selector shaft seal is pretty easy but output shaft a little harder. you need a ground down 30mm socket. If it's not leaking anywhere you could skip it.

              Ebrake can be re-adjusted since you have to take it apart anyway when removing the trailing arms.

              Comment


                #8
                finned diff cover is completely useless. if you want an m coupe diff bushing, get that.
                BEERTECH

                Comment


                  #9
                  Alright fellas, about to put in orders @ BMAparts:
                  Z4 3.0 "kit"

                  and from eurowebparts.com:
                  Exhaust gaskets
                  New self-locking copper nuts for all the exhaust connections (?#)

                  Flex disc self-locking nuts - 6
                  Driveshaft-diff - 4
                  Rear drive to diff - (?#)
                  Trailing arms - 4
                  Subframe bolts - 2
                  Diff mount - 1
                  Does anyone have part # on these? (Or else I can probably just get @ stealership)

                  Trans selector shaft seal.

                  And for ebrake:
                  N1061-133082 Brake Hardware Kit: Contains pins, springs and hold downs. Requires one per car.
                  N5001-25668 Parking Brake Shoe Set without Hardware

                  Swaybars will have new bushings. ;)




                  anything else required besides brake fluid to do bushings replacement, swaybar replacement, ss brake lines, differential swap, guibo/center support bearing replacement? thanks

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Rob
                    finned diff cover is completely useless. if you want an m coupe diff bushing, get that.
                    you couldnt be more wrong, they cool the diff by getting more air flowing around the fluid, in turn extending the life of the diff
                    Dan

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Have fun yanking the subframe 8) It's a little harder than adjusting your GC collars.

                      RISING EDGE

                      Let's drive fast and have fun.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Digitalwave
                        Have fun yanking the subframe 8) It's a little harder than adjusting your GC collars.
                        I might have fun, may cuss and drink a lot with my friends while doing it. Maybe they'll cuss too.

                        I bet the allen key could have gotten it with a longer-neck socket on it.......but I got distracted before trying again as I headed off to school, and am planning about keeping the rake now.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by DanGillan
                          Originally posted by Rob
                          finned diff cover is completely useless. if you want an m coupe diff bushing, get that.
                          you couldnt be more wrong, they cool the diff by getting more air flowing around the fluid, in turn extending the life of the diff
                          How many degree's are you accually dropping the average temperature in there?
                          Besides, how exactly does it last longer by decreasing the temp a few degree's?

                          "It's like a koala bear crapped a rainbow in my brain."
                          R.I.P. Harry Goz aka. Captain Murphy
                          "My ride, My ride, she don't beg, steal, cheat, or lie,
                          My ride, My ride, and our relationship is classified."

                          Comment


                            #14
                            the fluid stays cooler, thus keeping its lubricating qualities.
                            It makes a difference, but serious track cars run a diff fluid pump and radiator.

                            NASA MidSouth TT Director / GTS2 #018
                            Mods: Coastal PS Fluid, 10w40 Oil
                            Future Mods: Bosch Micro-Edge Wiper Blades, Painter's Tape, Spark Plugs, Freezer for Nutty Buddys, Adam Nitti CD's

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Thus keeping its lubricating qualities? You mean Inhancing its lubricating qualities, if that.
                              But I still don't see why that slight decrease in temp effects anything.

                              "It's like a koala bear crapped a rainbow in my brain."
                              R.I.P. Harry Goz aka. Captain Murphy
                              "My ride, My ride, she don't beg, steal, cheat, or lie,
                              My ride, My ride, and our relationship is classified."

                              Comment

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