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    #31
    Only high duration cams and those with high lift will give you problems. Personally, i wouldnt bother spending extra money on finding (and paying for) a td crank, it really isnt needed. The money spent would be better off having the entire bottom end balanced.
    Just a little project im working on
    - http://www.lse30.com -

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      #32
      forget about the TD crank.. it's heavier, more expensive and not worth it in a stroker M20. the cast E crank is more than strong enough.
      Build thread

      Bimmerlabs

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        #33
        Notice taken. Thanks guys.
        - 2000 Audi S4 Stg 2 (sold)
        - house (bought)
        - 1997 Civic Hatch (shaky but driveable)
        - 2010 Sportster 1200 Forty Eight Ed. (vroom)
        - 1991 318is S50B30 (TBA)

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          #34
          Originally posted by nando
          forget about the TD crank.. it's heavier, more expensive and not worth it in a stroker M20. the cast E crank is more than strong enough.
          there have been people (two on this site) that have had the cast eta cranks fail on their stroker m20's and claim it was due to its lack of strength. i'm not sure how you define "strong enough" but if you want the engine to last 100k+ miles maybe the TD crank is better in the long run. on the other hand if you just want a stroker to tie you over until you move on to bigger things like a engine swap, then i'm sure the eta crank is "strong enough."

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            #35
            I can't imagine spending any money at all on the motor that's just goign to "hold you over" so I guess the ETA crank is out. 524td here I come.... Or hell, maybe I'll just rebuild the M20 and leave it alone. Who knows.
            - 2000 Audi S4 Stg 2 (sold)
            - house (bought)
            - 1997 Civic Hatch (shaky but driveable)
            - 2010 Sportster 1200 Forty Eight Ed. (vroom)
            - 1991 318is S50B30 (TBA)

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