Common Electrical Shorts Info Thread *HERE*

[clavinZERO]

Electrical shorts and problems are a real headache and can eat up lots of time and money trying to trace. I had a hell of a time finding this one... so I thought I would post this thread up.

I was repeatedly, but inconsistently blowing fuse #21 (7.5 amp). This fuse powers the dome lights, glove box light, glove box flash light charger, stock radio memory (I think), OBC, tachometer, economy gauge, and trunk light... I think that covers them all.

My fuses looked as though they were heating up and warping to finally break the s-curve on the fuse INSTEAD OF the typical sharp cut I am used to seeing on blown fuses. I was advised that this type of symptom is usually a weak, weak short.

This short was indeed the smallest imaginable grounding-out of a power wire I could imagine and took 6 YEARS to occur. Culprit: the metal locking sleeve around my aftermarket stereo. The factory wiring harness to the LEFT of the stereo finally vibrated on the stereo sleeve hard enough to just nudge through both the factory wiring loom tape and the insulation on one hot wire. This was indeed a TINY connection being made; it was hard to duplicate even with the center consoles and some dash components torn open and me agitating all the wires.

Solution: tie-wrap the rubbing harness to something behind the dash to keep it just out of harm's way.

Hope this helps!... I know a lot of us have aftermarket stereo systems, so I figured this was worth a share. Thanks for reading. Please post your issues from both failing factory wiring and problems caused by common mods and changes you have made to your electrical system. Thank you.

[b*saint]

Proof that attention to detail is critical when wiring things. Always use grommets and zip ties.

[Goya20]

Do your 10 fuse keeps blowing, gauges dont work, except speedo. Check under the shift boot there's a wire for the reverse light. it runs under the rubber and gets pinched against the chassis causing it to go thru the insulation and shorting it out. Some thick duct tape around the chassis and electrical tape around the wire will work. Also if u have dont wokr on the tranny that wire can be cut from the bottom and u will need to get under there and some crimping connectors to hook up back to the wire to the loose set of wire( Same reverse light wire). Hope this helps.

[clavinZERO]

Nice addition Goya. Keep 'em coming.

[Van Westervelt]

Duct tape on a car around wires?! Yikes

[clavinZERO]

some thick duct tape around the chassis and electrical tape around the wire will work.

:p

[NC325iC]

Do your 10 fuse keeps blowing, gauges dont work, except speedo. Check under the shift boot there's a wire for the reverse light. it runs under the rubber and gets pinched against the chassis causing it to go thru the insulation and shorting it out. Some thick duct tape around the chassis and electrical tape around the wire will work. Also if u have dont wokr on the tranny that wire can be cut from the bottom and u will need to get under there and some crimping connectors to hook up back to the wire to the loose set of wire( Same reverse light wire). Hope this helps.

i have to go check this now, i def have a short in that fuse somewhere, it blows the second i put a new fuse in, even blew a 15 amp on a 7.5 amp circuit (it was the only fuse i had left)

[emi325i]

I had an old blower fan melt a hole in my fuse box. It was caused by a current draw due to internal carbon buildup. The 30A fuse, whose location I can't remember, melted without actually burning out. By the time it actually popped there was a molten mess about an inch in diameter.

I cleaned the carbon using compressed air, rebuild the circuit externally (separate fuse holder, relay, etc.) and the problem is solved..

Avoid this problem by replacing or cleaning old blower motors.

[emi325i]

Ever store change in the ashtray? Some may find their way in the cigarette lighter socket.

[StereoInstaller1]

Ever store change in the ashtray? Some may find their way in the cigarette lighter socket.

GM issues since the early 80's!

How about the damn check panel "BRAKE LIGHT" issue...I wonder how many have read my wrriteup and fixed theirs?

[emi325i]

brake light issue?

[clavinZERO]

Luke, copy/paste for posterity or something fancy like that?

[clavinZERO]

bump to get Luke to re-post or cliff notes in this thread... maybe a link Luke?

[FLG]

Here ya go, saved you the trouble.

Can i have a free lukebox now?

Guys, I am gonna speak on this. Trust me, I truly know my shit.

OK first:

THE STAINLESS BASE BULB THEORY IS BULLSHIT!

Any normal bulb is just fine. This circuit is just not that sensitive. Use those WalMart bulbs all you want, they are the same electrically.

The "bad brake switch" theory is wrong too. The circuit sees a bad switch as simply not using the brakes...absolutely no bearing on the DIC LED being on or not. Simple logic should tell you that, but old bullshit internet rumours die hard.

The real issue is simply oxidization, 100% fucking guaranteed. Do EXACTLY as I say and all will be fine...total cost of about $6. Maybe an hours work.

How to fix your issue:
1. Buy a can of CRC "Electronic Circuit Cleaner", should be about $6
2. Remove both the taillight assemblies from your car
3. Find the ground point of the panel, where a cheesy little wire connects all of the bulbs to ground....TAKE IT OFF and clean it with the CRC. Use a pencil eraser if it is really bad, but get that fucker clean!
4. Remove the left trunk liner. In front of the antenna, find the 2 screws that attach the diode board that controls the taillights (NOTE: Not the amplifier, OK?) remove it and clean the contacts of the board (AFTER unplugging it!) with more CRC.
5. CLean ALL of the plugs (more CRC...see a pattern?) that attach all wiring...meaning, the the third brakelight, both taillight housings AND the diode board.
6. Reassemble, making certain to properly seat ALL plugs. Don't forget to reattach that diode board! The better you clean those connections, the more likely your problem will not come back for another 20 years.

Now, when you start the car, the "CHECK" on the instrument cluster should come on, as should the "BRAKE" indicator on the DIC. Tap the brakes, both will shut off...unless you have a bad bulb.

And JamesE30, fire your asshat mechanic. You have a retard on your hands.

Luke

[TobyB]

The flasher wires in the steering column are also prime candidates for getting pinched.

It'll cause all sorts of turn/hazard problems, sometimes very intermittently...

If you keep blowing turn fuses and can't find bulb socket problems, try the column.

hth

t