A couple weeks later, i finally get a chance to do this. From start to finish it took me a little over 1 hour with the help of my wife.
I read these two articles before I started:
to remove cylinder
a guide to rekeying
during my research i found i didn't have some visual confirmation of a few things, so i decided to take a couple pics that i thought we all could use as a reference.
see this picture below of my freshly removed cylinder. note the shape/look of the C-clip that you have to remove, and note the rubber gasket that goes between the black trim piece and the outside of the door.
Following that second doc, i laid the old cylinder and tumblers out, my lady wrote down which tumblers went in which slot while my greasy hands pulled them out. Same as the author of the article, mine was so gummed up that nothing really shot out, i had to pull my tumblers out.
Here is the order that the new/better lock cylinder needs to be put together in. As a tip, the last 3 parts from the left of the picture (deadlock, spring, actuator arm) were a bitch to install. After some screwing around, i found that putting the three together, separate from the cylinder was way easier as the tension of the spring was too hard to overcome when trying to install it.
And lastly, put back together. Getting it back into the door was pretty easy as well. Unfortunately i still have non-working central locks, but at least now the driver door lock is as smooth/proper as the trunk and pass side.
I read these two articles before I started:
to remove cylinder
a guide to rekeying
during my research i found i didn't have some visual confirmation of a few things, so i decided to take a couple pics that i thought we all could use as a reference.
see this picture below of my freshly removed cylinder. note the shape/look of the C-clip that you have to remove, and note the rubber gasket that goes between the black trim piece and the outside of the door.
Following that second doc, i laid the old cylinder and tumblers out, my lady wrote down which tumblers went in which slot while my greasy hands pulled them out. Same as the author of the article, mine was so gummed up that nothing really shot out, i had to pull my tumblers out.
Here is the order that the new/better lock cylinder needs to be put together in. As a tip, the last 3 parts from the left of the picture (deadlock, spring, actuator arm) were a bitch to install. After some screwing around, i found that putting the three together, separate from the cylinder was way easier as the tension of the spring was too hard to overcome when trying to install it.
And lastly, put back together. Getting it back into the door was pretty easy as well. Unfortunately i still have non-working central locks, but at least now the driver door lock is as smooth/proper as the trunk and pass side.
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