M20 runs horribly. i need all the help i can get.

[Special_K]

Symptoms:
~Misfire becomes very prominent when under load.
~No power
~Barely idles
~Stomp test doesn't work...
~When given throttle input (in neutral), the revs initially go up, but after a second or two drop back down to idle even if the throttle does not move. This occurs when the throttle input is under 50%.
~Unplugging the IAC doesn't change how the engine runs (when ignition is in run mode, it can be heard buzzing along with the computer)
~The turn signal fuse (15amp) blows often. not all the time, but often. I know that's associated somehow with the stomp test.
~Fuel pump is a little noisy, but the line is definitely pressurized.

What i know:
~the injectors work, click, shoot fuel etc.
~there is spark. all spark plug wires are fine
~vacuum leaks are very minimal

Notes:
~I just rebuilt the engine (no head work or bottom end work), new timing belt, water pump, head gasket, etc.
~I have two DME's. symptoms are the same for both.

thats all i can think of for now. any ideas you have. ANY. post em up.

[Wh33lhop]

Sounds like something important is very wrong. Did you triple-check your plug wires' order? Confirm the timing is correct at TDC? Is it running rough, like it's only running on a few cylinders?

[jlevie]

The first actions should be to have a smoke test run on the intake and fix the leaks that are found, run the fuel system test suite in the Bentley manual, and double check cam timing.

[Special_K]

how to run smoke test myself?

[ZombiE30]

....also ohm out your AFM or swap in a known working one. Or unplug it and see if that changes anything (it should run noticably worse when unplugged).

If that's gone out, your car will run like complete ass (much as you described).

[jlevie]

how to run smoke test myself?

If you don't have a smoke machine you can't run the test yourself. Since entry price for a smoke machine is in excess of $700, you probably won't find one outside of a well equipped shop.

The cost to run a smoke test is generally no more than one hour of shop time, so it isn't a terribly expensive test.

[10yre30r]

Make sure you put the timing on TDC. The crank..lined up and the cam sprocket lined up correctly . What you describe sounds alot like youve got your spark plug wires in wrong order.

[Vtec?lol]

You should check the fuel pressure when the engine is under load or throttled up.

Seems like you've left a hose lose. Or a lose connection. Those fuel injection wires seem to break easily. Check them by the connector.

[Special_K]

Ok afm is fine.
spark plug wires are correct and working.
injector wires all work because i can get them to click from the dme harness

im going to have to check to make sure timing is correct and fuel pressure is good.

[StereoInstaller1]

I would do a compression test first.

[Special_K]

Unfortunately, i dont have a compression tester immediately available.

[330SMG]

I just rebuilt the engine (no head work or bottom end work), new timing belt, water pump, head gasket, etc.
What does the oil and antifreeze look like, does it smoke?
Or it is either fuel or a massive vacuum leak. to check for a leak spray wd-40 around the intake manifold connections especially where it mates to the head.
What do the plugs look like are they black(rich) or white(lean)? A fuel problem would lead to white plugs.

[hotballs]

Yeah crazy vacuum leak or bad sensor. Coolant temp sensor can throw things off. CPS sensor could be bad. Check the three relays under the hood. Swap those out with a couple different ones. Swap a known working computer. I don't know if the TPS would cause all this, but you could check that after everything everyone else said and the sensors, relays, ecu...etc.

[StereoInstaller1]

or it could be as easy as CPS switched with CRS...but that does not sound like the symptoms.

[StereoInstaller1]

Oh yeah, a compression tester is like $20 and should be in everyones tool kit