New Subframe Bushing Won't Go In

[funcrew]

I'm swapping out my subframe bushings for the first time, with the subframe still in the car and the bolt still in. Old bushing is out. Using a 2-jaw puller to pull the new bushing into the subframe. It got stuck with half an inch still sticking out and would not budge. Using expensive high-end sex lube for grease. The subframe is hanging about one inch low, supported on a jack stand. The weight of the car is on jackstands forward of the subframe mounting bracket.

Next I'm going to try Smith's generic sweet cream butter for lube, in case the sex lube was drying up before I could get the bushing pushed in all the way.

Would greatly appreciate any advice, particularly if I'm doing something stupid, which is likely.

[FredK]

I've had decent luck using turpentine as a lube. I've never installed subframe bushings while on the car, but a good two-jaw puller should be able to install the bushing. Are you using a big socket or something like that on the bottom side of the bushing, to clear the subframe pin?

[funcrew]

I've had decent luck using turpentine as a lube. I've never installed subframe bushings while on the car, but a good two-jaw puller should be able to install the bushing. Are you using a big socket or something like that on the bottom side of the bushing, to clear the subframe pin?

Fred, it takes me a much steeper learning curve on these things than your more intelligent R3Ver's, but I did eventually figure out to use a big socket to clear the pin. I think the lube had dried out by then. I don't have any turpentine, so dairy butter is next.

Thanks for your PM's on this topic by the way, they got me going in the right direction.

EDIT: Finally got one side done. The problem is that:

1. A cheap 2-jaw puller is unstable, and it's hard to keep the forces in line with the center of the bushing. The socket or whatever you're using to bridge the subframe pin/bolt likes to tilt off sideways.
2. You need to bridge the center hump of the bushing so you're pushing on the outside flange. Whatever you're using for that needs a hole in the middle to clear the hump and the subframe pin/bolt. Said piece needs to be stronger than #2 pine. If I can find a large steel pipe cap, I'll drill a small hole to center the puller screw point and that should work great. If there's an easy tool for this part, let me know.
3. It takes a lot more force to push an OEM bushing in than I expected. (dairy butter for lube, sex lube was worthless).

Getting the old bushing out was a breeze. Cramming the new one in was a multi-hour headache. I will be searching every subframe thread on every forum before I tackle the other side. Geez.

PS I'm too ignorant and stubborn to use easy-in poly bushings. Thanks in advance for recommending them, though.

[jlevie]

The best solution is to get your hands on a Sir Tools subframe bushing kit. The second best solution is to pull the subframe and take it to a shop that has a press.

[funcrew]

I'm on my second attempt, and have the same problem again. Using a huge flat washer and steel pipe cap glued together to press on the outer flange of the bushing (very important not to push on the center sleeve, or the inner/outer halves will rip) and using a 2 jaw puller hooked over the top of the subframe, the blessed bushing flange hangs up with 1/8 of an inch gap between the bushing flange and the subframe. Feeling around the top of the subframe where the bushing pushes through, the bushing still has 1/8 of an inch before it comes flush with the subframe. I'm using suspension bushing grease for lube, and the stuff remains gooey, so it's not a lube-drying-out problem.

At this point, I could just put the bracket and nut on and tighten it home, but there would be 1/8 inch of preload between the inner and outer diameters of the bushing, which would probably fail within a short time.

Could somebody confirm for me that the subframe bushing seats bottomed out, with the flange absoultely touching the subframe, no gap at all? I don't see why it wouldn't.

[SamE30e]

Are you sure that the sleeve of the old bushings are out?

I put in IE street poly bushings and it was a bitch and then I realized that the metal casing for the old ones were in.

I don't know what bushings you put in, but there was a small gap that went away when the weight of the car was put down.

[nrubenstein]

You can make a subframe bushing press using threaded rod and some thick metal stock. Mike and I made one because the E39 Touring rear subframe tool is absolutely unobtanium.

[Kershaw]

i just used a standard bench vise. i didnt even use any lube.

wrestling with a 20lb vise is a bit of a hassle, but i just turned it on its side and proceeded to crank it down.

it went in without a problem. i got both sides in, in less than 5 minutes.

[Boosted E30]

Dielectric grease on the bushing and in the holes, heat up the subframe a bit and should go it no problem. Just make sure you have no fuel leaks.

[funcrew]

Are you sure that the sleeve of the old bushings are out?

I put in IE street poly bushings and it was a bitch and then I realized that the metal casing for the old ones were in.

I don't know what bushings you put in, but there was a small gap that went away when the weight of the car was put down.

That makes sense, however my old SFB's are intact, came out like buttah using the super easy new method from <cough> bimmerforums.

After much pain, I couldn't get the last bit, needed to get the car functional, so assembled like that. Getting the subframe-to-unibody bracket installed was bad. Will try another method next time.