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So I solved it mostly. here is what a large part of it was this whole time: The rear trailing arms attach to the subframe through a bolt that goes through two tabs on the subframe, and through a steel tube/shaft that is inside the bushing that is inside the ends of the trailing arms.
Turns out this whole time I have been wrong about how tight the bolts need to be. I thought that the steel tube needed to freely pivot within the subframe tabs/mount points. WROOONG!!!
The whole idea is you tighten the piss out of the bolts, therefore securing the steel tube to the subframe, and the poly bushing actually slides around the steel tube. This way, there is no play, no tolerance, and a tight fit everywhere. I could use my crowbar to move the trailing arm mount points around, but not any more! No more clunking over bumps! There is more squeaking now, but that is normal w/ poly bushings.
The only clunking that remains is a very small clunk when transferring load through the driveshaft, and I am convinced it is just the driveshaft.
these are the steel tubes I am referring to, where the trailing arms mount to the subframe:
I replaced everything known to man... All bushings in the rear, driveshaft, center bearing, diff is tourqued as can be, flex disk, and still get this clunking at acceleration and shifting in to second gear.
Got the car up in the air and had a friend clamp down on the driveshaft to hold it in place while I moved the tires. That clunking sound happens when I move the tires back and forth when the driveshaft is held down. There appears to be a ton of slack in the diff.. it moves and clicks. Does this mean driveshaft rebuild? I would just throw another 4.10 in but who knows how long the new one is going to last? Any thoughts?
Yep, I finally discovered that it is the diff itself. It is incorrect gear lash due to a worn or over-tightened crush bushing in the diff. That causes a pretty nasty clunk on and off acceleration, and while shifting.
I am just going to ignore mine until i rebuild my diff.
Interesting, i have been trying to track this same exact clunk down for years. I replaced the driveshaft with a new one from Driveline specialists of Portland. It helped alot, my old driveshaft was shot. But, i can make teh car clunk REALLY bad if I am not smooth with the clutch, or punch it while cruising.
Also, does your car get into a really bad clunking rythm while idling in first or coming to a stop? All new subframe bushings/ all rubber in rear replaced. Guess my diff is shot.
Is the crush bushing easy to replace? Something you can do in your garage?
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