Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Stalling/Skipping problem on an automatic

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 2
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous 1 2 template Next
    #1

    Stalling/Skipping problem on an automatic

    PROBLEM SOLVED: MAIN RELAY

    The car: 1987 325i Automatic

    Lately I've been having an issue with stalling or "skipping" on my automatic. It only happens at low speeds, usually under 25mph, especially when I'm either in traffic or city streets. Basically anytime I am gently riding the gas pedal, stopping and going.

    I'm the farthest thing from a mechanic, but it kind of feels like it's missing 2nd gear. Or when I'm riding 1st gear, almost to the point if shifting into 2nd, and have to slow back down. The car will either stall out completely, or "skip". (the tach and revs will drop out for a split second, and then shoot up right after). Also, when it skips, the Check Engine light blinks on for a milisecond. (Blink and you'll miss it)

    Once I've been driving for a while past 40 mph, the problem goes away. The funny part is, that if I slow back down after driving on the highway, the problem also goes away. This leads me to believe that it could be the alternator. Perhaps it takes a good while for the alt to get enough juice out of the battery.

    I should probably mention that I've been having abhard time starting it in the morning. Sometimes it just won't crank. Could this be related?


    So, my guesses:
    -transmission slipping between 1st & 2nd
    or
    -alternator

    Am I spot on, or way off?

    PROBLEM SOLVED: MAIN RELAY
    Last edited by BrooklynMW; 05-19-2010, 01:53 PM.
    '87 325i "Chewey" (RIP, my beloved)
    current:
    '01 e46 325iT "Dot" - #datwagonlife
    '87 e30 325i "Tui" - she has her mother's eyes
    Tags: None
    #2
    Please, just nobody tell me it's the transmission
    '87 325i "Chewey" (RIP, my beloved)
    current:
    '01 e46 325iT "Dot" - #datwagonlife
    '87 e30 325i "Tui" - she has her mother's eyes

    Comment

      #3
      when the rpms drop, how much is it dropping by before reving back up?

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by bmwstephen View Post
        when the rpms drop, how much is it dropping by before reving back up?
        It's as if the engine shuts of completely for a split second. But the needle doesn't have enough time to get all the way down to 0 before the engine revs back up
        '87 325i "Chewey" (RIP, my beloved)
        current:
        '01 e46 325iT "Dot" - #datwagonlife
        '87 e30 325i "Tui" - she has her mother's eyes

        Comment

          #5
          when was the last time you replaced your ATF?
          http://www.steinbachphoto.ca

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by steinbachphoto View Post
            when was the last time you replaced your ATF?
            Actually, never. But I only bought the car 2 weeks ago. Do I have to replace it completely? Or can I just top it off?

            How would one go about flushing out the old ATF?
            '87 325i "Chewey" (RIP, my beloved)
            current:
            '01 e46 325iT "Dot" - #datwagonlife
            '87 e30 325i "Tui" - she has her mother's eyes

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by BrooklynMW View Post
              It's as if the engine shuts of completely for a split second. But the needle doesn't have enough time to get all the way down to 0 before the engine revs back up
              with that amount of slippage it sounds like the transmission is going out =/.

              Comment

                #8
                A feeling of the engine cutting out and seeing the tach take a large drop is mostlikely the result of a loss of timing data to the DME (CPS problems) or a loss of power to the DME (main relay, fusible link, wiring fault). Rarely it will be a failing DME.
                The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by BrooklynMW View Post
                  Actually, never. But I only bought the car 2 weeks ago. Do I have to replace it completely? Or can I just top it off?

                  How would one go about flushing out the old ATF?
                  The same way you'd flush out oil, there's a drain plug on the bottom somewhere. I think you fill it up by adding fluid through the "dipstick"
                  IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                    A feeling of the engine cutting out and seeing the tach take a large drop is most likely the result of a loss of timing data to the DME (CPS problems) or a loss of power to the DME (main relay, fusible link, wiring fault). Rarely it will be a failing DME.
                    i just fixed this in a friends car yesterday. car is driving along, rpms drop to 0 for a few seconds, and then the rpms go back up and car drives fine. it was a problem with the main relay.

                    pop the hood, and there is a black relay box in front of the fuse box. it only holds 3 relays so its not that big. the relay to the front is the main relay. (white.) with the car running, tap it with the handle of a screwdriver or your hand for a few minutes. tap it with some gusto, but you're not trying to smash it. if you can get the car to stumble or turn off, its bad.

                    im with jlevie, i dont think its a transmission problem.

                    but, whenever you buy a used car you are supposed to replace all filters and fluids. so i'd change your ATF anyway.
                    AWD > RWD

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Well, I filled the ATF this morning. Turns out it was just low. And I did not have the problem driving to work today. So hopefully, that will close the book on this little issue. But we'll see. If the problem persists, then I'll check the DME and the Main Relay.

                      So even though that problem was gone this morning, sometimes, the car still has a little problem getting up and going.
                      '87 325i "Chewey" (RIP, my beloved)
                      current:
                      '01 e46 325iT "Dot" - #datwagonlife
                      '87 e30 325i "Tui" - she has her mother's eyes

                      Comment

                        #12
                        No no. I was wrong. It happened a few times while driving home. But always in the first 15 minutes of driving. So I will check the main relay tomorrow. Would the main relay also have something to do with why I often have trouble starting the car?

                        Sometimes it won't crank at all. I wait 5 minutes and it'll crank slowly and eventually start.

                        Is replacing the main relay a costly fix?

                        I will also check for a leak in the ATF
                        '87 325i "Chewey" (RIP, my beloved)
                        current:
                        '01 e46 325iT "Dot" - #datwagonlife
                        '87 e30 325i "Tui" - she has her mother's eyes

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
                          i just fixed this in a friends car yesterday. car is driving along, rpms drop to 0 for a few seconds, and then the rpms go back up and car drives fine. it was a problem with the main relay.

                          pop the hood, and there is a black relay box in front of the fuse box. it only holds 3 relays so its not that big. the relay to the front is the main relay. (white.) with the car running, tap it with the handle of a screwdriver or your hand for a few minutes. tap it with some gusto, but you're not trying to smash it. if you can get the car to stumble or turn off, its bad.

                          im with jlevie, i dont think its a transmission problem.

                          but, whenever you buy a used car you are supposed to replace all filters and fluids. so i'd change your ATF anyway.

                          Sure enough. Tapped the relay and the car shut off. So is all I have to do is pop a new relay in? Expensive?
                          '87 325i "Chewey" (RIP, my beloved)
                          current:
                          '01 e46 325iT "Dot" - #datwagonlife
                          '87 e30 325i "Tui" - she has her mother's eyes

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Just picked up a relay from my mechanic. Has matching pins and numbers but is not the same white oem part. Would it be bad to try to install it? Should I wait to get the same white relay?
                            '87 325i "Chewey" (RIP, my beloved)
                            current:
                            '01 e46 325iT "Dot" - #datwagonlife
                            '87 e30 325i "Tui" - she has her mother's eyes

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by BrooklynMW View Post
                              Just picked up a relay from my mechanic. Has matching pins and numbers but is not the same white oem part. Would it be bad to try to install it? Should I wait to get the same white relay?
                              use it for now, but it's always a good idea to get the OEM part and I'd recommend doing that. There not expensive.
                              http://www.steinbachphoto.ca

                              Comment

                              Previous 1 2 template Next
                              Working...
                              X