I hate wiring, Help me 4x4 my IX! No Spark, FML

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  • JakeP
    replied
    Yes and yes. The jumper eliminated the beep, plus gave us fuel flow and spark.

    Engine won't run though, even with starting fluid.

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  • DaveSmed
    replied
    Originally posted by JakeP
    New fuel and filter. No change. C1 plugged in and no horn beep (good sign)

    I still need to do this:
    Where did you put the jumper, on the green wire at the coil? With C1 plugged in and no more beep, are you getting 12v at 27 with the key on?

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  • JakeP
    replied
    New fuel and filter. No change. C1 plugged in and no horn beep (good sign)

    I still need to do this:
    Pop off the cover on the jump start terminal and have a look. You will see two black wires coming from the right side of the car connecting to the block, a large gauge and a smaller gauge. (00 and 10 AWG IIRC)

    Measure the voltage on the 10ga when its running/shutting off. If it is abnormal, move it to a spot on the 00ga. wire somewhere.

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  • JakeP
    replied
    I'll check that relay wiring, but ALL the engine bay wiring came off of a running IX. It should be good. (thanks rede30!)

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  • DaveSmed
    replied
    Originally posted by accident
    we have the coil jumped to the distribution block on the passenger battery tray. this energizes the main relay and the fuel pump. from what i can tell, besides the fact that it wont stay running, the ignition switch isnt passing power to the main relay. havent figured that out yet
    Waiit a sec, the main relay and fuel pump are turning on without the DME?

    Ah ha, look for modified wiring over at the main relay. Maybe someone tried going from C101 Pin 7, right to the relays. That would explain a bit.

    It SHOULD go to the DME first, straight from the ignition, and the DME directly controls those two relays, once it sees the input from the ignition. (Weird, but it's how they did it. Think amp remote turn on wire)


    Here's what the main relay and fuel pump wiring should look like, note no ignition switch input. Strict DME control. If they turn on without a DME.... There's where the problem might be.
    Attached Files

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  • accident
    replied
    we have the coil jumped to the distribution block on the passenger battery tray. this energizes the main relay and the fuel pump. from what i can tell, besides the fact that it wont stay running, the ignition switch isnt passing power to the main relay. havent figured that out yet

    Leave a comment:


  • DaveSmed
    replied
    Originally posted by accident
    if we pull the ECU and crank it over to build up fuel pressure, it fires right up after plugging the ecu in, however it dies almost immediately after. think it's a fuel starvation issue, the gas coming out of the rail is pretty nasty looking, which leads me to believe the filter is clogged.
    Definitely worth a look at the filter, (it really sounds like starvation) but the DME should be the item controlling the fuel pump. so no DME, no fuel.

    Something extremely weird is going on with this car.

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  • accident
    replied
    if we pull the ECU and crank it over to build up fuel pressure, it fires right up after plugging the ecu in, however it dies almost immediately after. think it's a fuel starvation issue, the gas coming out of the rail is pretty nasty looking, which leads me to believe the filter is clogged.

    Leave a comment:


  • DaveSmed
    replied
    Originally posted by JakeP
    Tried the jumper idea with Accident. Got spark and fuel when the motor cranks. If I disconnect the DME, then reconnect it, it will run, but for less than a second. No more than that. Does the same thing with either of my 3 DME's. Unplugging c1 has no effect.
    At the very minimum, unplugging C1 should have stopped the horn from beeping. That is a weird enough thing to actually spend time looking into.

    Does the car die out like its starving for fuel, or shut off?

    (Dammit I wish I knew what I did with the E30 key... I'd get a pic)
    Pop off the cover on the jump start terminal and have a look. You will see two black wires coming from the right side of the car connecting to the block, a large gauge and a smaller gauge. (00 and 10 AWG IIRC)

    Measure the voltage on the 10ga when its running/shutting off. If it is abnormal, move it to a spot on the 00ga. wire somewhere.

    Leave a comment:


  • JakeP
    replied
    Tried the jumper idea with Accident. Got spark and fuel when the motor cranks. If I disconnect the DME, then reconnect it, it will run, but for less than a second. No more than that. Does the same thing with either of my 3 DME's. Unplugging c1 has no effect.

    Leave a comment:


  • DaveSmed
    replied
    That fuse in the trunk pretty much kills the whole car. I don't think thats your problem unless someone was screwing with the jumpstart terminal under the hood.
    (EDIT: Double checked, in 88 that is wrong, it is mainly for the DME. BUT, you wouldn't have power at pin 18 of the DME if this was bad)

    C1 has the Red/White, Brown/Yellow, and Brown/Blue wires, and it connects to the black box. Unplug it. Should have no more beepage, and the OBC should not be able to interrupt that circuit anymore. (some anti-theft system, huh?)

    I wouldn't mess with the relays or look at anything else until pin 27 has power. That absolutely positively will make a ton of shit not work, as the DME doesn't even realize the key is on.

    Honestly..... Give hellabads jumper to the coil a shot.
    Last edited by DaveSmed; 10-28-2010, 12:37 PM.

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  • JakeP
    replied
    Or just buy new relays. or jump power directly to the coil.

    Or try the fuse in the trunk. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=185780
    Last edited by JakeP; 10-27-2010, 11:24 PM.

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  • LB.Motoring
    replied
    Lets clean the grounds?

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  • JakeP
    replied
    Thanks man. Accident is supposed to come by tomorrow and scratch his head with me.

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  • Danny
    replied
    Welp, that's all the help i have for you.

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