When I turn the key so that all of the electronics are on (I'm not sure of the technical name for that position), the temp gauge works fine. But then when I start my car it immediately falls. Is this a ground issue? It doesn't happen all the time, but probably 75% of the time.
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Originally posted by Gruelius -
Check the temp gauge sender, it's located at the end of the fuel rail and should have a brown tip. The temp and fuel gauges have nuts behind the cluster that can loosen over time and can cause these types of problems. Otherwise it could be a trace in the cluster or maybe the SI board or batteries. But check the first two before you get into that. -
how would i check to see if the temp gauge sender is good or not?Originally posted by GrueliusComment
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hit the dash above it until the neddle jumps it should then begin to read the temp
Note: just a temporary fix
fix this asap as you could end up heat seizing your motor and not know it until it's to lateComment
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This would tell me if the gauge is not grounded correctly in the cluster, right?Originally posted by BahnE30Originally posted by GrueliusComment
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Unplug the connector with the ignition off. With the car off and the ignition on use a piece of wire to ground the terminal of the connector against something metal in the engine compartment. The gauge should move up, if it doesn't the sender is probably faulty. If after replacing the sender the gauge still doesn't move, the wire to the gauge and/or the gauge itself is faulty.Originally posted by kencopperwheatComment
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Which end of the fuel rail is it? The end toward the front of the car? Would it still be brown if I have an M10?Originally posted by GrueliusComment
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Which end of the fuel rail is it? The end toward the front of the car? Would it still be brown if I have an M10?Originally posted by bmwguru007
(Hitting the dash above the gauge did nothing, by the way so I'm assuming that it isn't a grounding problem in the gauge itself)Originally posted by GrueliusComment
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I don't have much experience with the M10, but as far as I know it should be at the front end of the fuel rail. There should be two sensors in that area that look identical, but are different colors. Of these two sensors the one for the gauge has a single terminal. The other sensor has two terminals and is for the fuel injection system. You'll have to unplug the connector to the sensor to check this.Comment
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Well, it was the temp sender. I took the old one out and it was NASTY. I think they're made of brass or something because my new one was really shiny, but the old one was brown. Five minutes of labor and problem solved!Originally posted by GrueliusComment
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Problem NOT solved... damnit. I replaced the temp sender and it still doesn't work all of the time. When it's not working I can hit the dash all I want and it doesn't budge. My mechanic said that the circuit board may be faulty.Originally posted by GrueliusComment
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Mine is having problems too, it goes up a little when it is powered up like to the begining of the blue but then stays there even when the engine gets hot. I switched the cluster and it still doesnt work. I tried touching one of the 3 wires that connect to the sensor to ground and it still doesnt go up. I tried seeing if there was continuity between any 2 of the 3 wires and nothing. What could be the problem? the wiring? if so is there anyway i can by pass it? after i first got the car together i noticed it moved a little but then didnt move again.
does anyone know in what order the wires connect to the sender? i took one off to try and clean it and they all came off! i think ther is a green and a black and brown and black? and a blackComment
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3 wires? I think you've got the wrong sender. The coolant temp sender has a brown top and has 2 wires going to it. Or does the M20 one have three wires for some reason?
Perhaps your sender is faulty. Or maybe the wiring?Originally posted by GrueliusComment
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i have an m42 so maybe the same touch it to negitive wouldnt workComment
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Have you replaced the actual temp sender?Originally posted by GrueliusComment
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