I have a breaker, Im checking to see if it has power right now.
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No power to windows or switches
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That is odd. Have you checked to see if you might have a pinched wire somewhere? Other than that I'm all out of ideas. I will ask my buddy in the morning and see what he thinks might be causing this.sigpic
85 swartz/metallic 325E
84 alpine 325E
85 zinnoberot 318i/R.I.P
84 Bronzit 318i/sold
purchase feed back here=http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...82#post3535282
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Are you getting power to the window switch's? If not then your problem is the hot wire between the breaker and the switch's. I think the window motors are self grounded I do believe (I could be wrong though, not sure).sigpic
85 swartz/metallic 325E
84 alpine 325E
85 zinnoberot 318i/R.I.P
84 Bronzit 318i/sold
purchase feed back here=http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...82#post3535282
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Grrr. Crazyman doesn't know what he's talking about. (I know you're trying to be helpful, but you're driving me insane with your wrong guesses) The switch need a ground or it won't work at all.
Do you own and know how to use a multimeter? If so, what year/model of your car?Originally posted by Matt-Bhey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?
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Probe the window switch connector. It should have:
Pin 4 and 5 must be ground for the windows to work
Pin 1 and 8 go straight to the window motor - they should ohm out at something(one probe on #1 and one probe on #8 )....uhhh 50 ohms maybe? There should be something there if you probe 1 and 8. If you have nothing, then the motor might not be hook up? Don't know.
Pin 2 is a unicorn. (just kidding - I wanted to see if you were paying attention)
Pin 7 get power to the switch. You need this for the motors to work and the lights to work.
The three most important ones are pin 3 and pin 4/5
If you don't have power on pin 3 you're fucked. If you don't have ground on pins 4/5 you're fucked.
Test all pins, and report back ALL findings.
Last edited by george graves; 12-22-2010, 01:20 AM.Originally posted by Matt-Bhey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?
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Driver's side door window doesn't work
I have been fighting a problem with the driver's side door for a few years now. I have had the car sitting for about 9 months since i had to replace the lock mechanism and had some problems getting it back together but now I have it back and working I need to focus on the window problem.
A little background. The window hasn't been reliable from quite some time. I noticed that it seemed to be worse in warmer weather but now it doesn't do anything when I push the switch. I have tested the voltage going into the motor and I am not getting anything there at all. I test the passenger side just to make sure I was testing it right and was seeing 12 volts no problem. I then tried swapping the switches and the problem stayed on the drivers side so that eliminates the switch being the problem. Following the guide below I have power on pin 3 and when I ground it to pin 4 I see 12 volts but when I put the other end on pin 5 which should be the ground I don't get any reading. So based on this where should I look for the ground for this wire?
Any help would be appreciated.
Originally posted by george graves View PostProbe the window switch connector. It should have:
Pin 4 and 5 must be ground for the windows to work
Pin 1 and 8 go straight to the window motor - they should ohm out at something(one probe on #1 and one probe on #8 )....uhhh 50 ohms maybe? There should be something there if you probe 1 and 8. If you have nothing, then the motor might not be hook up? Don't know.
Pin 2 is a unicorn. (just kidding - I wanted to see if you were paying attention)
Pin 7 get power to the switch. You need this for the motors to work and the lights to work.
The three most important ones are pin 3 and pin 4/5
If you don't have power on pin 3 you're fucked. If you don't have ground on pins 4/5 you're fucked.
Test all pins, and report back ALL findings.
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