I would plug it in and read fuel trim.
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Engine keeps flooding out
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Originally posted by r3d e30 View Postas far as I know this is an obd 1. So I have no idea how to read the fuel trim on it.Ma che cazzo state dicendo? :|
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I dont know. The more I look at this engine the more I think it is a bastardized product of stupidity. The previous owner didn't know how to read a service manual, I think. The cold air intake on it looks like he took dryer duct tubing and jerry rigged it. How can I tell if its really running rich. I have fuel in the oil, and it smells very rich. But when I run pressure test and fuel flow test it all checks out fine, so my guess is its just not gettting the right amount of air. Would a bad AFM prevent the right amount air to get into the engine?Because I said so, thats why.
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Motronic 1.3 fault code 1232 indicates a bad throttle position idle switchYour signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by TimKninjaIm more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.
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One clue that the engine is running rich is to take a look at the spark plugs. If they are black, either the engine is running rich or it is burning oil. The definitive check on the A/F ratio is to put the car on a dyno with a wideband sensor monitoring the exhaust.
The TPS contains two switches. One is the idle switch that closes with the throttle is closed and tells the DME to control idle speed with the ICV. The other is the WOT switch.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by r3d e30 View PostWhere can find a list of codes for future use? Also is that just the throttle position switch?Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by TimKninjaIm more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.
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If I dont clear the codes out, will the car use the last value it had when the code was set in the DME? In other words, do I have to manually clear the codes or will it automaticly clear it out after the repair? BTW I think I will end up having to replace the DMEBecause I said so, thats why.
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Okay attempt number two at a reply. Fucking firefox.
Disconnect the battery for ~15 min. the codes are erased.
I have had this problem and have also solved it by replacing the DME (ecu)
To definitively check, disconnect the c191 connector under the intake manifold (round plug for injector harness) Then using a multimeter set to ohms test for ground on pins 6 and 7 on the body side of the connector with the key in the run position, engine off.
If your DME is functioning properly there will be no continuity to ground i.e. very high or infinite resistance. If you have very low resistance like say 10 ohms it's safe to say that the injector drivers in the DME are burnt out.
'89 Alpine S52 with goodies
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