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    #1

    Doing head gasket what else should be done

    88' 325ix

    Well i can't get the air out of my cooling system and the heat only gets warm and gets cold when i stop. So its time to do the head gasket. Im probably going to buy the kit from bavarian auto and their head bolts as well. i just did the timing and pump a few month ago so thats all fine but while i have it all torn down what else should i do? I want to flush the heater core any sugestions for the best way to do it. or any tips for the big job im going to get my self into haha.
    Thanks, Stevan
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    #2
    what besides what you just described makes you think you need a head gasket. Because from what youve just said it sounds like an air bubble.
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      #3
      Previous owner never did the held bolt update, day after i got the car i was adjusting the valves and found the 2nd head bolt back from the front was loose, then quickly realized it was snapped in half. So i need to get the rest of the bolt out of the block soon before the head ends up getting warped, so im pretty positive the gaskets about shot. Ive tried bleeding the system everyday that i drive it and every time more and more air comes out, i pulled the valve cover the other day and seen just a little bit of coolant down in the head bolt hole. So i can't keep pushing it off any more haha
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        #4
        That sucks, if there is *any* way you can get the bolt out without pulling the head, you can replace the head bolts with new one-by-one. Otherwise, there's nothing "special" to do when replacing the HG, just buy one of the gasket kits and replace every gasket it comes with while you've got everything torn apart anyways.

        It will also help if you go in armed with a couple tips for dealing with the M20 "tube o' death" (oil return tube), do a search around here for some helpful info. Also, don't forget to put the heater hose coming off the rear of the head back on before you start tightening down head bolts; its easily forgotten due to its placement (at least for me anyways), and its a complete PITA to try and do from the top with no wiggling of the head possible.

        Make sure you scrape off ALL the old gasket material from the head and block, else it may not seal properly and you'll be back into it again soon...
        1991 318iS
        1992 911
        2006 330i 6-Spd ZSP people hauler

        Gone:
        1989 M3 S50B32, 6-Spd
        1990 325ix 5-Spd

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          #5
          Do the valve guide seals.

          Yeah, it blows, gotta either has mad skillz or go to machine shop...but if you don't, you will regret the hell out of it.

          A fresh top end makes a huge difference.

          I tear into the M20 in my E34 tomorrow.

          GL!
          Luke

          Closing SOON!
          "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

          Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

          Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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            #6
            As noted, do at least valve seals while the head is off. And have a shop check the head for warp and surface if necessary.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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              #7
              I've already had to put intake gaskets on so I lve delt with the oil return tube so I'm not worried about that.
              I'm on a budget so I don't have the money to take the head to a shop. However I am taking vo-tech but not for automotive, but I could talk to the automotive teacher maybe he would be able to do the valve seals. I've rebuilt engines before but never done valve seals.
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                #8
                Saying you've built motors without doing valve seals is like telling us that you've had lots of sex but you've never actually taken your pants off. It's hard to believe...

                If you can't afford to do the job right, buy some leak stop and live with it until you can. When you pull the head on a car as old as yours you WILL need to have it surfaced, have the valves cut and replace the seals. It's such a minimal expense vs. tearing it all down to do it again that it's stupid not to do it right the first time.

                Good luck!
                '89 325is S50 Track Montser
                '04 X5 Daily/Tow Vehicle

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                  #9
                  Ha I like your comparison, I usually would check all the seals and along as they were not hardened I would reuse them, of course since I'm paying for them I'm am planning on doing them. Just for Shot in the dark how much would in a ball park range should I expect to have to spend for a shop.
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                    #10
                    i got a shave, new guides (i provided), seated valves and vacuum test...$85. shop around though...guy across town wanted $250, since it was a bmw. check with your local parts houses for good machinest references.

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                      #11
                      Who the hell reuses seals if you're already at them anyways? What's a seal go for? 3 bucks a pop? You can't spring for 36 dollars?
                      Ma che cazzo state dicendo? :|

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