Help needed will start and run with the key in the start position only

[jlevie]

Does the engine run fast enough to disengage the starter? If so I'd say that some circuit that should be hot in Run & Start is only hot is Start. Unless and aftermarket alarm has been installed that would mean a bad ignition switch.

[ejnight]

Does the engine run fast enough to disengage the starter? If so I'd say that some circuit that should be hot in Run & Start is only hot is Start. Unless and aftermarket alarm has been installed that would mean a bad ignition switch.

It had a old UNGO alarm. I pulled it all out. still does it. Picking up an ignition switch Wednesday.

[ejnight]

New ignition switch did not work.

[mr.vang]

is your car an autotragic?

[b*saint]

a schematic would be tits.

[ejnight]

is your car an autotragic?

Yes it is.

[ejnight]

Any one?

[DaveSmed]

Grab a test light. Attach it between the green wire on your ignition coil, and a chassis ground.

Proper operation is on with ignition on and in the start position.

[SeasSoShining]

Very interested in this thread... What relays did you change?

As far as power distribution goes, it seems that most of the wiring is shared between "run" and "start" positions on your ignition switch. Meaning: it should be easy to isolate what wiring/compenent specific to the "run" position is failing if this is an electrical problem. I'm ignorant when it comes to automotive ignition systems, so my musings may seem rediculous to someone with more experience... What about the starter hold-in coil?

...These schematics have been around, but I figured I would post them to help in the discussion. Not sure what model year you're dealing with. If it's your '91, the schematic here isn't showing an automatic specific schematic... The older publications do.

E30 Wiring Diagrams: http://www.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e30/

[ejnight]

the three main ones on the fender well.

[SeasSoShining]

Which three relays exactly?

From what I've gathered from the schematic, when you go from the "start" position to the "run" position to you are changing the source of power for the starter motor...

"Start:" Battery > Battery Junction Block > Starter Motor > Ground.
"Run:" Battery > Battery Junction Block > Ignition Switch > K5 > Starter Motor > Ground.

Someone else should chime in.

[jlevie]

Which three relays exactly?

From what I've gathered from the schematic, when you go from the "start" position to the "run" position to you are changing the source of power for the starter motor...

"Start:" Battery > Battery Junction Block > Starter Motor > Ground.
"Run:" Battery > Battery Junction Block > Ignition Switch > K5 > Starter Motor > Ground.

Someone else should chime in.

The only electrical difference between Run & Start is that in Start the ignition switch supplies power to the starter solenoid.

[DaveSmed]

Those relays only control accessories. There is only one wire going from the ignition switch to the DME. That one wire also happens to connect to the ignition coil. Thus the suggestion of the following test earlier in the thread.

Grab a test light. Attach it between the green wire on your ignition coil, and a chassis ground.

Proper operation is on with ignition on and in the start position.

[ejnight]

I broke down and towed it to Mike O'Hara Service 5020 NE Cully Blvd, Portland, OR. If these guys can't fix it, I will part the POS. I will let you know what happens.

[Pennyw1se]

Dibs on front and rear bumpers! Just kidding. Good luck. Make sure you post the solution. Has me curious.