Geometry rules (shifter review)

[BS87]

Wow, the 3.0 is not as low as i thought it would be... now i am REALLY torn between the z3 and z4 lever.

[Rob]

abridged version:

1. Lift car (safely hopefully). My car is ulta 4x4 high, and i found lifting it made the work a bunch easier.

2. Under the car: Remove the rusty ass brass clip that holds the selector rod pin to the bottom of the shifter. I did this easily by rotating the clip so the open end faced forward, and lightly tapped on the back end with a flat screwdriver and hammer.

3. Inside the car, remove the shift knob, then the boot, then the rubber boot that goes through the body.

4. remove the cup that holds the shift lever in the carrier. I did this by rotating the cup ( white plastic piece, still attached to my shift lever in the first picture), again, using a screw driver and hammer. You need to rotate the cup 1/4 turn clockwise i believe, then the shift lever will be able to come straight up.

Thats basically it, reinstallation is just the opposite. If you need a more in depth how to, dont ask until you're actually under the car and need help, this was my first BMW shifter install, and it was a breeze.

[randomtask37]

and what did u lube that bad boy up with?

i ordered one earlier this week, and the linkage stuff came... but the actual shifter lever didnt. im a little pissed about that. but we'll see...

[MattM20]

abridged version:

1. Lift car (safely hopefully). My car is ulta 4x4 high, and i found lifting it made the work a bunch easier.

2. Under the car: Remove the rusty ass brass clip that holds the selector rod pin to the bottom of the shifter. I did this easily by rotating the clip so the open end faced forward, and lightly tapped on the back end with a flat screwdriver and hammer.

3. Inside the car, remove the shift knob, then the boot, then the rubber boot that goes through the body.

4. remove the cup that holds the shift lever in the carrier. I did this by rotating the cup ( white plastic piece, still attached to my shift lever in the first picture), again, using a screw driver and hammer. You need to rotate the cup 1/4 turn clockwise i believe, then the shift lever will be able to come straight up.

Thats basically it, reinstallation is just the opposite. If you need a more in depth how to, dont ask until you're actually under the car and need help, this was my first BMW shifter install, and it was a breeze.

thats a good explanation. it really isnt difficult at all, installing the Z4 shift lever was the first thing i did my self having to work under the car and it was very simple, i feel like i could do it again in under 30min. the circlip (under the car) is kinda tricky, but i'm sure you could figure something out in order to pop it off, i just used needle nose pliers. at one point i needed someone extra to hold the shift knob inside the car while I slid the lever off from under the car, but aside from that it was all DIY

[Inspar8r]

Lube it up with White Lithium grease. Lube the nylon cup. I did the same withthe Z4, the only thing i have left is the carrier bushing and the stuff that jordan modded his up with.

I also needed to replace that rubber boot as well. I still need to get one, which i might do tomorrow.

[Rob]

I didn't bother to lube the cup, I might go back and do that soon, see if it reduced the stiffness a bit. It's definately not a problem though

[fabianyee]

Syko: its not hard at all, and I'd be happy to help you out if you want to do an install sometime over Christmas break

Like I said, I did the z4 3.0 lever, if that above is the 2.5, the shifter height will be the same, but the actual throws will be much shorter with the 3.0, which is a good thing or a bad thing depending on your perspective



I love posting that pic, it gives a great idea of the differences between the Z shifters

Anyone got the part number for the Z4 3.0 lever???

[Rob]

the M-roadster is 25 11 2 228 384


I'll get you the part number for the 3.0 Z4 lever on friday when I get home from Christmas, that work?

[fabianyee]

the M-roadster is 25 11 2 228 384


I'll get you the part number for the 3.0 Z4 lever on friday when I get home from Christmas, that work?

Thanks... That would do...

[M42Technik]

Don't you have to bend the selector rod?

[NCm42]

Hey Syko i just went to Flow and got all the parts needed, the Z4 lever, and the lever itself was 56$ and the total is about $80. But i did have to order it.

[fabianyee]

Anyone here with access to the part number for the Z4 3.0 shifter?

[precision tuner]

i heard with 3.0 it rubs the guibo.

http://www.bmw-forums.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=7106

look at pic

[Rob]

I dont have any rubbing problems...


z4 3.0 pn is 25 11 7 516 160 and it was $47 shipped from www.bmaautoparts.com

[rwh11385]

To avoid creating another thread to answer this question, I'll just hijack this one! :P

Will the shifter feel in the E30 be the same as in the respective cars. That is, if I put in a M roadster shift lever, will it feel idential to that. Or are there other factors that go into play?

And how come the M roadster shifter feels so much shorter than the Z4? You have to push it twice....which you can love or hate.....

I drove at least one of each of the shifter rod displayed this morning, with exception of the Z3 2.8. The 1.9/2.3 is way too long to be considered an upgrade. The M roadster is uber short and needs to be pushed twice to get in gear (kinda of cool ;) ). and finally the Z4, which is short but still pretty smooth.

Rob, How are you liking the Z4 now?.....that you have had time to use it longer and in stop/go etc. The M roadster shifter is short and sweet......but I fear it might be TOO notchy (for me). I dunno.....