Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

315k miles. Need help with my options

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
    #1

    315k miles. Need help with my options

    Ok guys. I have a 315k mile 89 iS, 5 speed, 2 door. Blk/blk

    The dilema: Stock m20 leaks from head, oil pan cracked, driveshaft toast, suspension worn out, motor mounts broken, fan clutch fried, all suspension rubber needs replacement.

    I understand that she is a high mileage shell. But what does the r3v community suggest i do?

    1. fix m20, fix other problems- drive car
    2. swap in m30 that has been refreshed, fix other problems- drive car
    3. Sell the car, buy e36 m3.

    Now that being said, i love the car and really dont mind dumping 2-3k into it. But my question lies: is 315k on a chassis too much to start anything new with? Is the 315k mile m20 near the end to where i should look for another motor?

    I occasionally solo II'd the car, but the main use would be street driven daily driver. I abuse my cars when it comes to driving- pls take that into consideration.

    Any input from anyone with high mileage e30 experience is much appreciated.

    Thanks
    Tags: None
    #2
    If the body & interior is in good condition. Swap in a lower mileage M20B25 engine, replace the bushings, drive shaft, etc, and drive the car for another 200k.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

    Comment

      #3
      The body is in ok condition, 3 golf ball size dents and sandblasted front end. Could use a little fender massaging to get the dents out and a paint job.
      The interior is also ok. The driver seat is toast though. Dash crack free and for the most part 7/10

      From what i know the car was highway driven from sf to ny for the first 200k miles of its life. I have a stack of dealer receipts from the p.o. I maintained the car well for the most part.

      Will the chassis need reinforcements from the high highway miles? Id like to have an "as close to stock" chassis rigidity, i do understand metal fatigue and know that the miles had to have done something to the strength of the shell.

      Since im replacing all the suspension i was going to go with a spec e30 setup with hr/bilstein and all the other goodies. My main dilema is m30 vs m20?

      Comment

        #4
        We racers take +200k cars and install a roll cage, safety gear, suspension, etc., and go racing. The only times I've ever seen any chassis problems with an E30 it has been caused by rust damage. If there isn't any on the car there's no concern about chassis integrity.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment

          #5
          Jlevie- thanks for the replies! Now my question still lies. M20 or M30? I do want some more zing out of the motor, but i dont want to sacrafice too much else. My m20 currently has ie headers, dinan chip, and freshly cleaned injectors. Still lacked the pep i wanted.

          Does the m30 take the e30 far out of its 'reliability' element?

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by Camoflash View Post
            Jlevie- thanks for the replies! Now my question still lies. M20 or M30? I do want some more zing out of the motor, but i dont want to sacrafice too much else. My m20 currently has ie headers, dinan chip, and freshly cleaned injectors. Still lacked the pep i wanted.

            Does the m30 take the e30 far out of its 'reliability' element?
            if you're swapping something into a platform that wasn't designed for it, you're bound to run into issues. if you have the time and money to iron it out then by all means an m30 is the way to go. I have enough headaches trying to clean up every nook and cranny on my m20 after my rebuild of it

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by Camoflash View Post
              Jlevie- thanks for the replies! Now my question still lies. M20 or M30? I do want some more zing out of the motor, but i dont want to sacrafice too much else. My m20 currently has ie headers, dinan chip, and freshly cleaned injectors. Still lacked the pep i wanted.

              Does the m30 take the e30 far out of its 'reliability' element?
              Done properly, an engine swap can result in a reliable car. That usually means have a pro that has done a number of similar swaps do the work.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

              Comment

                #8
                Im a pretty competent dude with plenty of tools and help. I would probably be buying the writeup from FrankM and going from there.

                Will the m30 take my e30 away from its "balanced feel". Ive searched alot and there seems to be mixed opinions about the weight of the m30 vs the weight of the m20.

                I do understand that the m20 swap would be alot easier, the m30 seems pretty worth it for the performance gains, and it doesnt seem like rocket science?

                Bmwstephen- do you know if RyanG has done many m30 swaps? He may be my go to guy if its cheap enough.


                Thanks all
                Joey

                Comment

                  #9
                  i'd contact him. he's done a lot of swaps before and if he hasn't im sure it won't be difficult for him. this is a guy who swapped a manual in an auto e30 in less than 3 hours.

                  alternatively, wat are you to use the car for? with an m30 you forgo a lot of features like AC and emissions. I believe you can get away with smog provided the m30 engine is a year that is newer than your e30 chassis

                  Comment

                  Previous template Next
                  Working...
                  X