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Replacing Head Gasket - Tips For a First Timer

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    Replacing Head Gasket - Tips For a First Timer

    Hey All,
    First time posting on r3v but I've been on bimmerforums for a while. Just wanted to say hey!

    So unfortunately it looks like I am going to have to replace the head gasket on my e30 318i M10...hopefully the head isnt cracked. I bought this car to teach myself some basic mechanics but it looks like I'm getting a crash course.

    Basically, I just want any tips anybody can offer for replacing the gasket. For example, use new/used head bolts, keep oil out of the head bolt threads, how to keep timing accurate, etc, etc. Stuff that I wouldn't find just reading my bentley manual. Also, is there anything I should replace or refinish (rings, etc) while I've got it torn down?

    Thanks,
    Alex

    #2
    New headbolts, and plan for it to take 3x as long as you think it will.
    Originally posted by Gruelius
    and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

    Comment


      #3
      I had to do the head gasket on my m20 when i got it. I don't know if you have ever done motor work before but here are some pointers i've learned

      When taring down take pics of each major step and label everything(hoses, plugs, electrical, etc.)

      When taking the head off take the bolts off in the right pattern as shown in hynes manual (for removal start at each end and work your way to the middle)

      When torquing new head bolts put a drop of oil on the treads for help them seat and get a better torque on them and start in the middle and work you way out in 3 stages.

      Make sure head and block or completely clean of old gasket and anything else

      Check for a warped or cracked head

      You should do valve seals and guides but if on a budget you can live with out them

      Do to the rings you would be doing a full rebuilt bey that point cause the crank would have to come out.

      And for timing there will by marks on the crank gear and the cam gear so line them up before you take anything about and make sure it goes back together with them still lined up with there marks.

      Do your best to keep all dirt and junk out of the cylinders and coolant passages.

      hope some of this stuff help
      good luck with the rebuild
      Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

      IX being restored here

      Ix turbo build here

      Comment


        #4
        I used ziploc bags and bagged all the bolts that went together, anything i didn't bag i hand threaded onto where it belonged, that way you don't end up with a big mess of bolts trying to figure out what goes where. Follow the torque specs and sequence as laid out in the bentley. Give it some time and clean up as much stuff as you can, you will thank yourself when it's back together and looks nice, not greasy and grimey. I would also recommend you do as much "while you're in there" maintenance if you can afford to.

        Comment


          #5
          Take your time, don't make big plans to drive it till its done. You bought it to learn, so take your time and understand what you are doing. Also you will probably go over your initial budget.
          sigpic

          Comment


            #6
            My suggestions are:

            1) Have the head checked by a good machine shop for cracks and surfaced to make the head flat.
            2) Clean the block with a scraper and ScotchBrite pad.
            3) Chase the threads in the block with a bottoming tap and blow out the threads w/compressed air.
            4) Set the crank to TDC on cylinder 1 and align the camshaft before putting the head on.
            5) Use new head bolts and torque per the procedure in the Bentley manual.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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