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Need to do timing belt again, what else at same time

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    Need to do timing belt again, what else at same time

    I will do the water pump, t-stat, and plugs, wires, cap and rotor. What else should I do at the same time? Thanks.

    #2
    tensioner
    "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

    85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
    88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
    89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
    91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

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      #3
      Originally posted by reelizmpro View Post
      tensioner
      +11
      1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

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        #4
        Yeah, don't forget to clean up around that area while your in there!

        +1 on the tensioner. Im doing my t-belt, water-pump,t-stat&housing this tuesday.

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          #5
          seals behind the cam gear sprocket
          sigpic

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            #6
            Head over to Pelican Part's website. They have a "water pump kit" for the e30 that includes most of the stuff you need for a timing belt/water pump job. Even if you don't buy it it might remind you about a couple additional things.

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              #7
              cam sprocket seals, might was well replace the water hoses your gonna take out. Also fan clutch?

              Always order a extra 2-3 water pump gaskets. Those are always a bitch to install

              the blue and brown sensors, thermostat, bleeding screw for coolant,
              Renting my rear wheel bearing tool kit. SIR
              http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...ps6debf0b0.jpg

              Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

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                #8
                The coolant bleed screw is probably the most important.
                Me: "I can't wait to redline my car!"
                Mark: "Didn't you just break a rocker arm?"
                Me: "Yeah, I don't think I've learned my lesson."
                Mark: "You never will."

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                  #9
                  coolant bleed screw really necessary? I don't remember ever changing that.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by clydesdale View Post
                    coolant bleed screw really necessary? I don't remember ever changing that.
                    If the bleed screw is in good condition there is no reason to change it.
                    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                      #11
                      fan clutch.
                      "If the sky were to fall tomorrow, the tall would die first."

                      -Dr. Paul Forrester



                      Do I LOOK like I need a psychological evaluation???

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                        #12
                        belts, hoses, thermostat and housing if yours is crappy.
                        sigpic 1987 325is

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                          #13
                          I know I regret not changing the head gasket when I had everything else taken off for the timing belt. If your car is over 150k and you plan on keeping the m20 long term it might be something to consider. Pull the head, get it checked for straightness at the machinist, and reinstall with new bolts and gasket. It should be good for another 10 years.

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                            #14
                            ^+1
                            I'm doing that right now. Changing water pump, timing belt, acc belts, tensioner, valve cover gasket, cam gaskets, valve adjustment, head gasket, spark plugs, and ignition wires.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by browntown View Post
                              I know I regret not changing the head gasket when I had everything else taken off for the timing belt. If your car is over 150k and you plan on keeping the m20 long term it might be something to consider. Pull the head, get it checked for straightness at the machinist, and reinstall with new bolts and gasket. It should be good for another 10 years.
                              Unles there is a history of overheats, I see no reason to pull the head just to change the gasket. Now if the engine has 150k or more, pulling the head and having the valves ground and new seals installed is a good idea. I almost always find a little bit of warp in a used head and will have the shop surface the head to take it out.
                              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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