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Installing Blisten Shocks and H&R springs

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    #46
    update.

    The one side was sticking outwards because a spring was missing. I found it on the floor and put it back in. Now how do I loosen up these ebrake pads. Should It be hard for me to put the rotor back on? I need to hammer it on or it wont fit.

    From the looks of it the pads need to be closer together so it dosnt rub with the rotor. Then the rotor will be able to move freely. This is just a hypotethis thought.

    Any idea how I would do this?

    Thanks
    Jon!

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      #47
      Adjust that nurled nut that is on the Top(I believe). Just rotate it till the pads are allowed to move in. And the rotor should just slid right on.
      85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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        #48
        Originally posted by rs4pro3
        Adjust that nurled nut that is on the Top(I believe). Just rotate it till the pads are allowed to move in. And the rotor should just slid right on.
        Well I had to get home so I'll try it tomorrow. I should finnally be able to drive the car round finally! Yay, Then after I start to get a feel for how the car handles I'm throwing on the new springs and shocks!

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          #49
          Yess, I found the adjustment wheel. It was hard to find because it was dirty as hell and you couldnt see the teeth. The brakes really needed adjusted! I fixed it and the rotor just sliped right on!

          I went to spin the rotor and its still locked up like before...

          The hub center flaunge (sp) dosn't rotate at all? I'm no expert, but isnt that connected to the rod that then goes to the differental? What now could be the problem?

          Thanks
          Jon

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            #50
            Seized diff, or crapped out CV joint. When you spin the other wheel, will the driveshaft spin(tranny in Neutral). If so more then likely the diff is fine. I'd then unbolt the halfshaft from the diff and see if it turns. If still won't then a wheel bearing could of seized(they ussualy moan and grown before hand)

            Also remove the Brake caliper and try spinning, and watch the rotor to make sure it's not Warped and hitting something
            85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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              #51
              Originally posted by rs4pro3
              Seized diff, or crapped out CV joint. When you spin the other wheel, will the driveshaft spin(tranny in Neutral). If so more then likely the diff is fine. I'd then unbolt the halfshaft from the diff and see if it turns. If still won't then a wheel bearing could of seized(they ussualy moan and grown before hand)

              Also remove the Brake caliper and try spinning, and watch the rotor to make sure it's not Warped and hitting something
              Thanks, I'll get back to you. This suckss

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                #52
                Well I was wrong, everything is fine. The wheels move now! Not sure if everything is smooth yet thought. I've never driven a clutch let alone an E30 so I'll have to let my mom drive it to see if it needs anything else.

                The brakes need to be warned in and they also need blead, there isn't enough pressure to the pedal.

                Thanks for you help everyone
                Jon

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                  #53
                  Well I was wrong, everything is fine. The wheels move now! Not sure if everything is smooth yet thought. I've never driven a clutch let alone an E30 so I'll have to let my mom drive it to see if it needs anything else.

                  The brakes need to be warned in and they also need blead, there isn't enough pressure to the pedal.

                  Thanks for you help everyone
                  Jon


                  edit: mom drove it around the block, it was just my sucky shifting, the car sounds great, just little loud and the brakes need bleed. I am starting to hate this magnaflow

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                    #54
                    bump new prodject

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