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    special bmw tools?

    Is there a website that sell bunch of special bmw tools for 1991 318is??

    #2
    I'm sure pelican parts has any tools that BMW had. What are you looking for though? All I can think of for "special tools" is the valve adjustment thing that you don't even need. Or are you talking about the trunk tool kit?

    - E30, DSM, Golf R, Mazda 3 Skyactiv

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      #3
      Originally posted by blefevre View Post
      I'm sure pelican parts has any tools that BMW had. What are you looking for though? All I can think of for "special tools" is the valve adjustment thing that you don't even need. Or are you talking about the trunk tool kit?
      tools like bushing extractor,cam,drive shaft nut removal,and on and on you know:p

      really looking for drive shaft nut removal so I can replace drive shaft center bearing.

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        #4
        This place has all kinds of Euro tools and special automotive tools... not cheap by any means but very high quality.

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          #5
          Originally posted by immajackuup View Post
          really looking for drive shaft nut removal so I can replace drive shaft center bearing.
          you don't need that socket to replace the CSB, just the output seal
          1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

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            #6
            Originally posted by SpecM View Post
            you don't need that socket to replace the CSB, just the output seal

            looking to replace the whole thing not just the bearing and no I don't want to use monkey wrench.

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              #7
              I got a special tool for you haha. Send it to you for free if you want



              Thats a pretty sweet website for tools.
              Renting my rear wheel bearing tool kit. SIR
              http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...ps6debf0b0.jpg

              Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

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                #8
                sweet,you got pm sir.^^

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                  #9
                  In almost all cases, a failure of the CSB will be the result of binding u-joints in the drive shaft. Which means that replacement of only the CSB is a waste of time and money. For the complete fix the drive shaft has to be replaced. If you use a rebuilt drive shaft (I like DriveLine Services of Portland) it will come with a new CSB installed.
                  The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                  Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                    #10
                    meh, I was half joking. The blue clamp just keeps the two parts of the driveshaft together. But you can have if you want.
                    Renting my rear wheel bearing tool kit. SIR
                    http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...ps6debf0b0.jpg

                    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by immajackuup View Post
                      looking to replace the whole thing not just the bearing and no I don't want to use monkey wrench.
                      You don't have to remove that "nut" to change the CSB. All that does is tighten down to keep the two parts of the driveshaft from separating. You only need to turn it slightly (if any) to pull the two parts apart. Be sure to mark their alignment before you do though.

                      Also, worn u-joints aren't the only thing that make CSB's fail. Have you never heard of rubber deteriorating over several years?

                      Be sure to "preload" the bearing as well when you bolt the driveshaft back up.

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                        #12
                        while i agree with j-levie...

                        if you just replace the csb it'll still last quite awhile. i did that to my ex-gfs e30. her csb was bad and her u-joint was loose, but she didnt have the $300+ for a new driveshaft. so i just replaced the csb. a year later it's still driving fine.
                        AWD > RWD

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                          #13
                          It only clunk when I let off the gas then shift but if I keep the gas pedal steady while shifting is smooth. also there's no vibration problem.

                          Think the diff just need new fluid.

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