Help with a nonsense check engine code... NEW PROBLEM

[jtuner]

I just got my 325ix back from the shop.. They fixed a huge leak in the intake manifold gasket, and now since i've gotten it back a few things are going wrong... almost like the damn thing got used to running with a big ass hole in the gasket

First off, it doesn't start as quickly as it used to.. I used to turn the key, and it fired right up.. now it can take up to 4 seconds of holding the key..

Second, when i'm sitting idle (which is WAY too low, around 400rpms) when i step on the gas, the car bogs first, lowering RPMs, then revs up fine.. if I barely tap the gas, it bogs and kills...

So i've put new plugs in it, and wires.. Haven't checked the rotor and cap yet, but the car runs fine other than at idle..
I did the blink code test,, and got 3 blinks... I tried it again about a half hour later and got 2 blinks...
WTF? I thought it was supposed to give 4 different sets of blinks... Could all my problems be because of the ECM? maybe the AFM? I unplugged the TPS sensor, and it seems to help with the idle speed, until it sits a minute then it drops back down to the rough idle, and does the same exact things..

If anyone has had anything like this happen, or knows what the hell the blink code means, I'd REALLY appreciate it.. i'm tryin to sell this car, and i can't have it running like this...
BTW its an 88 325ix
Thanks ya'll

[AdamF 88iS]

The 88s have an earlier style DME. The don't flash the same was as the newer ones. It can only display 4 codes, each one a single digit. 3 blings means Coolant temp sensor, which makes sense since you're having cold starting issues.

[PanamaE30]

Well, for your crappy idle, check the ICV.

This is happening in my car (the low idle issue) and I know exactly what you mean by it bogging down.

My ICV cable is apparently loose, and during certain maneuvers, it'll loosen up a bit and my idle will go down to about 400 or 500 rpm. When I get out of the car (still running) and push the cable back into the ICV firmly, the engine comes back to life.

Not sure if it will help you, but that's what's going on in my ride.

[jtuner]

K be easy on me here, this is my first 'I' car lol, where exactly is the ICV? I know where it is on the e's and es's, but i'm pretty stoopid when i comes to these motors... Thanks for the help, sounds like we're gettin to the bottom of this lol

[PiercedE30]

it should be a kind of black oblong tube style thing that is right next to the throttle body. It has an electrical plug coming into the rear(towards the front of the car). It will plug into the intake boot, and into the side of the throttle body.
hope that helps

[jtuner]

Hey thanks man, i appreciate the help.. I found it, and if I change the coolant temp sensor and still have the problems, i'll change that out...

Anyone have any ideas on the starting issue? Could it be the starter? coil?

[jtuner]

So check it out...
I was drivin to the supermarket the other day and parked,, when i came back the car wouldn't start.. so i pop that hood and I have a nice fountain of coolant streaming from a pinhole in a gasket on the throttle body antifreeze housing..
So I go to BMW and get the gasket, change it, put everything back together, change out the coolant temp sensor, and try to start the car...
It won't start...
I check the check engine code, but it won't work right.. when i don't even touch anything, the check engine light blinks on once, the blinks twice, then turns on... me hitting the pedal 5 times doesn't do ANYTHING...
So, i pull out my plugs and regap them..
It starts, but the idle is about 2k, and it kinda cuts in and out..
So, I pull the plugs again.. They're covered in what looks like oil.. I smell one and it's black gas.. so i pull em all out, make sure the gaps are right, clean em off, and put em back in.. BAM car starts up.. so I figure hey i'm done right?
I go to park the car, and it cuts out... now it wont start back up...
Now the check engine light is on constant, and it still won't start back up..

Can anyone please help with my new problem?? I sealed all the things I took apart back up, and plugged everything in right... i'm just thinking, jeezus what could it be now... HELP!! thanks...

[EverWiser]

Bad O2 sensor causing the car to run way too rich? Check the connector to it to make sure it's hooked up but that would be my guess.

[jtuner]

Ok cool, that's a good thought... I'll try unplugging the o2 and cleaning the plugs again and we'll see what happens...
Anyone know what the check engine blinking could mean? 2 blinks.. I don't even have to touch the gas pedal

[arsevader]

Sounds to me like the coolant temp sensor is still the culprit. Did you change the sensor (2 prongs) or the sender (1 prong)?

The sensor is the one you want to change.

Assuming you did change this one I would strongly recommend you check the harness that runs from the sensor. Pull back the rubber boot of this connector to see if the wire is broken. A break in this wire would throw an check code and give you exactly the same symptoms you describe.

This has happened on more than one car I have worked on.

James

[ryan_george]

Do some tests on the ICV and AFM. I've got the same issue with tapping the gas and it bogging out. It's a bad AFM in my case.
This stuff should clear up the idle issue, but that's assuming you get it running!

[DarkWing6]

If that coolant leak is what I think it is I got some bad news for ya. This sounds a lot like what was going on with my car. I troubleshooted for about 2 weeks changing everything. It ended up being the wiring harness for the fuel injection system. $130 bucks from BMA. Since I couldn;t figure it out I had it towed to the stealer and it cost me $530!!! $400 in labor. The connection right underneath the throttle body is where the coolant probably leaked into. Try taking that off and cleaning it out. That may solve your problem.

[jtuner]

Great suggestions really :D I got it running by pulling the plugs again, sanding the contacts, and unplugging the O2.. I've plugged that back in now and it seems to be working pretty good.. my idle is still crappy and rough, and sometimes it surges like a honda... I'm gonna check my ICV, maybe clean it out and such,, I changed the coolant temp sensor, but i think i put in a bad one.. I'll try the AFM as well,, i think i have a good one laying around...
Thanks for all the good ideas, I appreciate the help :D

[jtuner]

oh and BTW I got the pedal test to work.. It does 2 blinks still.. anyone know what 2 blinks means for an 88?

[nando]

If that coolant leak is what I think it is I got some bad news for ya. This sounds a lot like what was going on with my car. I troubleshooted for about 2 weeks changing everything. It ended up being the wiring harness for the fuel injection system. $130 bucks from BMA. Since I couldn;t figure it out I had it towed to the stealer and it cost me $530!!! $400 in labor. The connection right underneath the throttle body is where the coolant probably leaked into. Try taking that off and cleaning it out. That may solve your problem.

man, that sucks. I told you that leak would cause bad things! :(