Just today I took off my intake manifold to paint and put in new injectors. I also installed a turner chip. After getting everything together it would not start. The car is not getting fuel pumped to the motor for some reason. I took off the hose to the fuel rail and no fuel is comming out. I dont see what could have caused this. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
Car wont start, not getting fuel
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Re: Car wont start, not getting fuel
Did you pull the fuel pump fuse to depressurise the system before you did this? Did you put the fuse back?Originally posted by 325is_e30Just today I took off my intake manifold to paint and put in new injectors. I also installed a turner chip. After getting everything together it would not start. The car is not getting fuel pumped to the motor for some reason. I took off the hose to the fuel rail and no fuel is comming out. I dont see what could have caused this. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
James
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One thing I've learned to do is "jump" the fuel pump relay to build pressure back up. Use a small piece of wire on pins 87 and 30 (thanks rs4pro) I could never remember which pins before he told me. They are the ones that are closest to the engine and closest to the fusebox (if that makes sense)Originally posted by 325is_e30i did not pull the fuse before doing so...
You can also use some long speaker wire and wire the fuel pump to the battery to help force fuel when you are cranking it after you let it depressureize.
Unorthodox? Yes, but my 84 has a mind of it's own.Comment
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Yep.Originally posted by 325is_e30do you mean one end f the wire goes in one pin and the other end in the other pin?
On a car with two pumps you can hear the external one buzzing, but since you have a late model you'll have to listen carefully. Probably open a door and listen near the tank/backseat.Comment
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alright well it turns out that my father put my chip in backwards and burnt it up. I put the original chip in and it works now, but now my car is not idling right and has bad throttle response. Also my coolant is not flowing right and my water gauge is at cold all the time. Check engine light is on.
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The idle and bad throttle response is a result of reseting the ECU. Drive the car around for an hour or so and it will fix itself up. I don't know about the CEL though. There is a notch in the chip, its hard to put one in backwards - props to your dad!Originally posted by 325is_e30alright well it turns out that my father put my chip in backwards and burnt it up. I put the original chip in and it works now, but now my car is not idling right and has bad throttle response. Also my coolant is not flowing right and my water gauge is at cold all the time. Check engine light is on.
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Another problem i had was the "thermo-time switch" plug and the other one right next to it. I happened to switch them. I figured the longer one went to the furthest plug, but i guess i was wrong. That fixed my coolant problem. Currently the only problem i have now is that my car wants to stall everytime i let the rpms drop, such as comming to a stop and pushing in the clutch. The idle drops to 0 and then pops back upComment
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Have you been driving it? Like I said, the ECU needs to "re-adapt" and will right itself in time.Originally posted by 325is_e30Another problem i had was the "thermo-time switch" plug and the other one right next to it. I happened to switch them. I figured the longer one went to the furthest plug, but i guess i was wrong. That fixed my coolant problem. Currently the only problem i have now is that my car wants to stall everytime i let the rpms drop, such as comming to a stop and pushing in the clutch. The idle drops to 0 and then pops back upComment
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And actually, it's more of a case of number of restarts rather than length of time before the ECu adapts. So a number of restarts in a shorter period of time will get you back to normal in a jiffy.Originally posted by DigitalwaveHave you been driving it? Like I said, the ECU needs to "re-adapt" and will right itself in time.Originally posted by 325is_e30Another problem i had was the "thermo-time switch" plug and the other one right next to it. I happened to switch them. I figured the longer one went to the furthest plug, but i guess i was wrong. That fixed my coolant problem. Currently the only problem i have now is that my car wants to stall everytime i let the rpms drop, such as comming to a stop and pushing in the clutch. The idle drops to 0 and then pops back up
James
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I had 2 test runs, then to work, back from work, and then another drive after that... idle still dropswhen i push in the clutch, but after it drops it pops back up to normal. The idle is not erratic, it just drops down and then comes back up once when i go to stopComment
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Classic symptoms of an ECU reset.Originally posted by 325is_e30I had 2 test runs, then to work, back from work, and then another drive after that... idle still dropswhen i push in the clutch, but after it drops it pops back up to normal. The idle is not erratic, it just drops down and then comes back up once when i go to stop
I find it useful to start the car, drive a few blocks, turn it off and repeat a few times. It sounds silly but it does work. It doesn't seem to be the amount of actual driving you do that matters, just that you turn the car off then restart it again.
James
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