Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

My coolant is green, my new bmw coolant is blue...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    My coolant is green, my new bmw coolant is blue...

    I read on a Pelican Parts how to that if you put in coolant and didn't use distilled water that it ran the change of doing something to the sulfides (or something like that) that effectively made your coolant turn into a gel like substance and green.

    Now I don't buy it turning whatever was in there green, as I am sure the PO probably put green coolant in, but I do now have the problem of having blue coolant on hand when green was used before.

    I was also told not to mix colors. Does anyone know if I have to flush out my system more thoroughly and how to do it?

    Also read that my car (325e) takes about 11 liters (11.6 quarts) (which should be a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and coolant). Is this accurate? If so 1 gallon that I bought (3.8 liters) isn't enough to top off the system is it?

    #2
    green and blue can mix without problem. Alternatively, keep flushing until there's no green left.
    2017 Chevrolet SS, 6MT
    95 M3/2/5 (S54 and Mk60 DSC, CARB legal, Build Thread)
    98 M3/4/5 (stock)

    Comment


      #3
      Flush it thoroughly, but mixing shouldn't be a problem.
      2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
      2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
      1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
      1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
      - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
      1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
      1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

      Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
      Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

      sigpic

      Comment


        #4
        It is easy enough to clean out the green coolant. Drain the system (from the radiator and block). Fill with plain water, set the heat for max temperate and run through the bleed procedure. Then repeat at least once more. That will get all of the old coolant out.

        1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
        the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
        on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

        2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
        the bleed.

        3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
        temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
        in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
        up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
        warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
        up the coolant as necessary.

        4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
        several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
        this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
        indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
        repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

        5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
        bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
        few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment

        Working...
        X