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    Very quick timing belt question

    So I took everything out and moved the too gear above the water pump so that the arrow is aligned with the marking (tdc), my question is does that gear in the lower right of the picture have to be aligned to anything? I've been looking for something to align there but see no markings.

    I'm using bentley and the picture tutorial from here but I feel like there is another tdc I need to align before I slip on the belt.

    Also, are the torque specs for the water pump 80ft/lb? Thanks guys.
    Attached Files

    #2
    omg. you should have rotated that to its correct position with the belt still on it.



    the lower timing belt mark is on the lower timing belt cover.

    make sure you do 2 or 3 full rotations by hand (22mm on the crank shaft) to make sure you arent getting any valve contact once you put the belt on.
    AWD > RWD

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      #3
      FUCK. now that I've removed the pulley with the tdc mark how do I know if it's actually been put back on correctly for me to have aligned it right? Is there any way to check?

      Damnit!

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        #4
        Ok disregarding my last panic attack I figured out te orientation of the pulley with the markings for tdc and put it back on, I then aligned it with the markings. For reference can I now slip the belt on without worry? These are where the two markings now stand.
        Attached Files

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          #5
          Probably. After you get the new belt on, rotate the engine manually through at least 2 full rotations to make sure the valves don't hit the pistons. Unless you had to turn either the cam or crank more than a 1/2 rotation, you "should" be fine.

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            #6
            You should be good to go, as long as you don't have to give either a full turn. I removed my timing belt and thought that I was at full TDC. I was off my a few mm in each area. Once the belt was off, I just moved it to TDC on both sides before I slid the timing belt on.

            Everything put together and the engine runs good..
            - Y2K M Coupe (DD, Track Rat)
            - '08 Land Cruiser (Family Hauler/Tow)
            - '90 E30 4/5sp. (DD/ Son)
            - '87 AW11 Mr2 (AutoX-Rally-Track)
            - '06 Royal Enfield Bullet 350 w/sidecar (weekend cruiser)

            Future
            - E92 M3
            - 88-91 M3 (maybe.. if I can find one, regret selling in 05)

            - Richie

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              #7
              There is a mark on the crank hub and a V notch in the lower timing cover. If the crank and the cam sprocket marks are aligned, the engine is in time. The small lower sprocket on the intake side of the engine is the imtermediate shaft that drive the oil pump. The intermediate shaft has no timing requirement.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                #8
                if the mark on the lower crank snout and the mark on the cam pulley are in position, you are good to go. It should be noted however that the stamped cam gear that you have is subject to breakage, and should be replaced with a later model cast (forged??) gear that is not subject to sudden collapse, causing massive engine damage (same as a busted belt.

                Some will say that you can use them, but the early models that used these gears from the factory were subject to a recall because of cam gear failures. You can get a better gear from nearly any junkyard that has an M20 in it. most out there will be of the updated style
                I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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