Any tips on guibo/center support bearing DIY?

[blacksport325]

I am going to tackle my guibo and CSB this weekend or next (depends when parts arive), it looks pretty straightforward, I'd imagine taking the exhaust off would be the toughest part, any tips or things I should know before hand? I can't seem to find any DIY's online but i'm hopefully grabbing a bentley manual before I start.

[jlevie]

In almost all cases a failure of the rubber mount of the CSB will be the result of binding u-joints in the drive shaft. You can replace the CSb and gain temporary relief, but the new CSB will soon fail. The only long term fix is to replace the drive shaft.

This is a pretty straightforward repair job. Just make sure that the paint marks on the drive shaft are lined up and preload the CSB by pushing it towards the engine.

[blacksport325]

Well, I think the bearing has just broke or gone dry to be honest, the rubber surrounding it seems to be fine. Its not really a shaking issue with my car but the sound of a bad bearing, i've replaced both rear wheel bearings and it has gone away significantly, but there is still a bit of noise from the center of the car when driving above ~45mph and it makes the sound only under accel/decel, which is what lead me to think its the CSB.

['e30love']

i didnt drop the exhaust to do it i just let it hang take off all covers,disconnect csb, and guibo and take the front half of the driveshaft off, like jim levee said make sure when putting it back together that the lines match up because the diveshaft is balanced.

[blacksport325]

So it doesn't sound too hard then? Thanks for the tips, i'll check my CV joints as well.

[Sailor37]

Remember that the guibo bolts in a certain way. See this Pelican article.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech.../E36-Guibo.htm

[Ayman]

yeah and those headers are gonna be a bitch to put on, stock at least.
anywho, onto the facebook link https://www.facebook.com/pages/Guibos/191266504273242

[jw 325ic]

Just let it hang. Im a pro at removing the driveshaft. Remove the rubber hangers and the bolt that secures it to the tranny and let it hang. Remove the 4 nuts on the back, then the 3 bolts holding the DS to the trans. After that, remove the 2 CSB bolts and lower it/bend it in the middle and pull the front off the trans with giubo still attached. Then straighten the back half and slide it out from the diff. If you dont have an air hammer to split the shaft halves, use a hammer and a blunt chisel to split it.

[Sagaris]

Giubo



I will be replacing mine this week also.

[Sagaris]

Just let it hang. Im a pro at removing the driveshaft. Remove the rubber hangers and the bolt that secures it to the tranny and let it hang. Remove the 4 nuts on the back, then the 3 bolts holding the DS to the trans. After that, remove the 2 CSB bolts and lower it/bend it in the middle and pull the front off the trans with giubo still attached. Then straighten the back half and slide it out from the diff. If you dont have an air hammer to split the shaft halves, use a hammer and a blunt chisel to split it.

I am familiar with the exhaust support that connects to the trans, by saying "let it hang" are you saying that you dont need to separate the exhaust pipe at one of the flanges in order to get enough clearance?

[Sagaris]

holy hell this sucks! I just started on mine and the (6) exhaust downpipe bolts were a bear to get the wrench on them.

I would appreciate any advice on removing them for future reference but the only revelations I have gotten on making it easier is that the downpipe for cyl. 4 5 and 6 can be removed with just a 15mm box-end wrench and a steel digging rod against the ground for leverage , from the top of the car. I got the bolts for cyl 1 2 and 3 off from under the car, I dont have A/C so I had more room to work on those ones from below. :blowup: off to go drop the heat shields.

[blacksport325]

4 cylinder ftw...anyways, my parts are still not here, I will just let the exhaust hang from the back of the car, I looked at it today and it doesn't look too hard, when you say "split the half shafts" do you mean separate the driveshaft? I assume it connects together at this CSB?

[801coppertop]

My tip would be to make sure when trying to pull off the CSB itself make sure you take out the retaining clip. It can be dirty and hard to see.... Also when trying to pull the drive shaft apart rotate 160 degrees and it just kinda comes apart IIRC. Other than that it is pretty straight forward. Good luck it can take some patience.

[801coppertop]

holy hell this sucks! I just started on mine and the (6) exhaust downpipe bolts were a bear to get the wrench on them.

I would appreciate any advice on removing them for future reference but the only revelations I have gotten on making it easier is that the downpipe for cyl. 4 5 and 6 can be removed with just a 15mm box-end wrench and a steel digging rod against the ground for leverage , from the top of the car. I got the bolts for cyl 1 2 and 3 off from under the car, I dont have A/C so I had more room to work on those ones from below. :blowup: off to go drop the heat shields.

PB lube and heat! Lots of heat!

[reelizmpro]

In almost all cases a failure of the rubber mount of the CSB will be the result of binding u-joints in the drive shaft. You can replace the CSb and gain temporary relief, but the new CSB will soon fail. The only long term fix is to replace the drive shaft.

This is a pretty straightforward repair job. Just make sure that the paint marks on the drive shaft are lined up and preload the CSB by pushing it towards the engine.

Jim, I agree. My CSB gave up on my turbo car a few days ago and I was thinking about trying to save a few bucks by just changing it but since the car is making 300+HP I figured a rebuilt shaft would probably be wise. After 20+ years, those U joints have got to be on their way out. $250 isn't too bad for a bolt in rebuilt shaft and a little peace of mind.