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m20 wont start!!! CPS, battery, and COIL check out fine...

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    m20 wont start!!! CPS, battery, and COIL check out fine...

    hey guys,

    so yesterday, i go out to try and start the car, and the bitch doesnt want to start!! i tested the crank position sensor with a ohmmeter, as well as the battery and the coil, and each part tested turned out NOT faulty...

    the car will crank, but NOT start...im lost...

    any help would be appreciated...:hitler:
    Last edited by spiDmang; 09-05-2011, 08:48 PM.
    -Brad, AlphaTeam Motorwerks, LLC
    91' 318iS - S54/6MT Swapped
    08' E90 M3 6MT - Daily
    04' Chevy Duramax CCLB - Work Truck/Hauler


    Originally posted by IronJoe
    Alpha Team: running through e30s, gringo icebergs, and 19 yr olds.

    Originally posted by 2mAn
    Brads a standup guy even though he likes buttsex

    #2
    i just did mine its really simple. First of all buy a Bentley manual and that will solve most of your problems.

    But the connector is under the diagnostics plug and the wire runs by the w/p and the fan so make you to secure the wire good and the cps is right on the harmonic balancer on the passenger side. I believe its like a 5mm allen key or something like that

    hope that helps, and you can test yours by doing a ohms reading on two of the pins and it should read like 500 to 600 hundred or something close to there
    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

    IX being restored here

    Ix turbo build here

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by nomansland92 View Post
      i just did mine its really simple. First of all buy a Bentley manual and that will solve most of your problems.

      But the connector is under the diagnostics plug and the wire runs by the w/p and the fan so make you to secure the wire good and the cps is right on the harmonic balancer on the passenger side. I believe its like a 5mm allen key or something like that

      hope that helps, and you can test yours by doing a ohms reading on two of the pins and it should read like 500 to 600 hundred or something close to there
      im sorry, but huh?? I have a bentley, and ive searched for the "crank position sensor" but i cant find a damn thing within the manual..ill safely assume its named something else in the manual...if so, whats a different name the CPS would go by?
      -Brad, AlphaTeam Motorwerks, LLC
      91' 318iS - S54/6MT Swapped
      08' E90 M3 6MT - Daily
      04' Chevy Duramax CCLB - Work Truck/Hauler


      Originally posted by IronJoe
      Alpha Team: running through e30s, gringo icebergs, and 19 yr olds.

      Originally posted by 2mAn
      Brads a standup guy even though he likes buttsex

      Comment


        #4
        DUde it is super easy to do. If you can find the crank pulley and the toothed wheel you can replace it.
        Argh cant find my book I was going to give you that page #
        sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
        The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713

        Comment


          #5
          lol so im getting alot of different info here...ill check the location and report back in!
          -Brad, AlphaTeam Motorwerks, LLC
          91' 318iS - S54/6MT Swapped
          08' E90 M3 6MT - Daily
          04' Chevy Duramax CCLB - Work Truck/Hauler


          Originally posted by IronJoe
          Alpha Team: running through e30s, gringo icebergs, and 19 yr olds.

          Originally posted by 2mAn
          Brads a standup guy even though he likes buttsex

          Comment


            #6
            dont have a diy but here is a picture of where its located...its the wire in the middle of the picture leading to the little cylindrical metal piece. picture is part of the timing belt diy, might help you a bit.



            Comment


              #7
              awesome, perfect timing!

              i actually found it in my bentley (which they called the "pulse sensor")...

              i was examining the 5mm hex nut that holds the sensor in place, and that damn thing is stripped...

              any thoughts on how i can remove it??
              -Brad, AlphaTeam Motorwerks, LLC
              91' 318iS - S54/6MT Swapped
              08' E90 M3 6MT - Daily
              04' Chevy Duramax CCLB - Work Truck/Hauler


              Originally posted by IronJoe
              Alpha Team: running through e30s, gringo icebergs, and 19 yr olds.

              Originally posted by 2mAn
              Brads a standup guy even though he likes buttsex

              Comment


                #8
                Not to say your buddies are wrong but have you checked the resistance of the sensor before replacing it?

                Do have a 5.5mm allen or a standard size to maybe fit in the screw?

                COTM

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by N2MYE30 View Post
                  Not to say your buddies are wrong but have you checked the resistance of the sensor before replacing it?

                  Do have a 5.5mm allen or a standard size to maybe fit in the screw?
                  yeah, im definitely not forking over money before testing it out!

                  and i literally just bought some tools, so im gonna get to work.
                  -Brad, AlphaTeam Motorwerks, LLC
                  91' 318iS - S54/6MT Swapped
                  08' E90 M3 6MT - Daily
                  04' Chevy Duramax CCLB - Work Truck/Hauler


                  Originally posted by IronJoe
                  Alpha Team: running through e30s, gringo icebergs, and 19 yr olds.

                  Originally posted by 2mAn
                  Brads a standup guy even though he likes buttsex

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If the allen head in screw is stripped, you can get it out with vice grips. The only tricky parts of replacing the crank position sensor is that you need to set the air gap to 0.040" +/- 0.05" and that the clips on the plastic wire chase will probably break. A new chase and clips should be on hand before pulling the old sensor. Well that and that you'll want to remove the fan and water pump pulley to get to the wire chase.
                    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                    Comment


                      #11
                      It should ohm in the low to mid 500's. I have had one check out fine that I swear was still bad. Replaced it with a brand new one and it fired right up. Unfortunatley I replace a couple other things as well so there is no real way to know what the culprit truely was.

                      Originally posted by Roysneon
                      $5 shipped?
                      Originally posted by MarkD
                      You are a strange dude, I'n not answering any more posts from you.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Check the resistance across pins 47 & 48 of the DME connector, which should be 500-560 ohms. If
                        the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change from about 500 to
                        540-560 ohms when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
                        sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.
                        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                        Comment


                          #13
                          well, i checked the CPS resistance, and it was reading a solid 532-535 ohms every test...
                          -Brad, AlphaTeam Motorwerks, LLC
                          91' 318iS - S54/6MT Swapped
                          08' E90 M3 6MT - Daily
                          04' Chevy Duramax CCLB - Work Truck/Hauler


                          Originally posted by IronJoe
                          Alpha Team: running through e30s, gringo icebergs, and 19 yr olds.

                          Originally posted by 2mAn
                          Brads a standup guy even though he likes buttsex

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by spiDmang View Post
                            well, i checked the CPS resistance, and it was reading a solid 532-535 ohms every test...
                            Then its probably not the CPS.

                            COTM

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by N2MYE30 View Post
                              Then its probably not the CPS.
                              yup, i realized that...i checked the coil and battery too...still no go.
                              -Brad, AlphaTeam Motorwerks, LLC
                              91' 318iS - S54/6MT Swapped
                              08' E90 M3 6MT - Daily
                              04' Chevy Duramax CCLB - Work Truck/Hauler


                              Originally posted by IronJoe
                              Alpha Team: running through e30s, gringo icebergs, and 19 yr olds.

                              Originally posted by 2mAn
                              Brads a standup guy even though he likes buttsex

                              Comment

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