Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Starter Motor Replacement

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    I have done 3 starters all the same way. takes about 4 hours without experience and about 2 with. I know. :-)

    you can get at the starter in two ways. Bottom or top-which do you prefer? I prefer removing it from top.

    Torx bolts? if you do from top; get a pry bar screwdriver. one long enough and before you secure it under the teeth of the torx bolt first crack the two 17mm nuts. it will most likely spin the torx head. Then wedge the flat head of the pry bar in flush with the teeth and then continue to remove the nut. Should come off easy. Do the same for the bottom one. You can slip the starter out from the top providing you remove the air box and maybe some of the heater hoses to give you space to work and to take it out. be prepared to have some extensions and creative with your tools. if you need to remove the heater hoses you will lose some coolant so have a catch pan. Also remember to ad the lost coolant and bleed the system.

    if you have an IX then you are into a bit more work as the dip stick has to come out to for room to work. Some procedure to remove.

    Just reverse the steps and you're good to go. When putting the starter back in first get the nut the thread and then secure the torx head until the nut is snug and the crank it down. repeat for the 2nd torx. then wire it back up.

    Also, check engine ground from frame to oil pan. the can get corroded or break causing a ground short.

    if you go about it from the bottom? you will be better off dropping the tranny to get to the torx or if you have a creative mind maybe a wobbly and long extension. I find the top one has a bit more work involved with removing a few things but you don't need to get under the car. oh and you will need some torx sockets.
    Last edited by Ceeker; 11-20-2011, 07:15 PM.
    sigpic

    Comment


      #17
      ^ awesome. Expect a PM from me, because I will likely have a question.

      So this is how I do it... Just to make sure I got the steps right

      1 Remove Airbox and intake boot
      2 Crack both nuts on the starter
      3 Hold torx nuts with your fingers while unscrewing the nuts? (I already cracked the bottom starter nut, which was a 16mm, from underneath. The other side with the torx is just spinning so I gotta squeeze and hold it while I remove the nut)
      4 ?
      5 ?
      6 Replace with new one

      Comment


        #18
        #3. can't use fingers unless they are like steel.
        use a pry bar to hold the side of the torx head while you spin the nuts off.

        the rest is pretty simply..take the positive lead off the starter and trigger wire and it should slip up through the opening..
        after its out replace and reverse order. two nuts back on and hold the torx from spinning.
        sigpic

        Comment


          #19
          check all your ground straps... if there's not enough grounding to sink the current through the starter it won't work. You need a good 12V connection as well as a good ground connection. There are connections from the solenoid to the starter, and the starter is grounded to the block. the block must be grounded to the frame. there's one ground from the oil pan to the frame under the AFM(at least on the M10s)

          which terminal did you check for the solenoid? there is switched power there, the small black/yellow wire should have 12V with the ignition in start and none at all other times.

          The other two terminals are ground and 12V from the battery. you could have tested it wrong.


          good luck
          '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
          NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
          Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by Ceeker View Post
            #3. can't use fingers unless they are like steel.
            use a pry bar to hold the side of the torx head while you spin the nuts off.

            the rest is pretty simply..take the positive lead off the starter and trigger wire and it should slip up through the opening..
            after its out replace and reverse order. two nuts back on and hold the torx from spinning.
            When you use the pry bar do you put the end between the flanges or whatever they are called on the torx nut. The 6 protrusions?

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by Jaxx_ View Post
              check all your ground straps... if there's not enough grounding to sink the current through the starter it won't work. You need a good 12V connection as well as a good ground connection. There are connections from the solenoid to the starter, and the starter is grounded to the block. the block must be grounded to the frame. there's one ground from the oil pan to the frame under the AFM(at least on the M10s)

              which terminal did you check for the solenoid? there is switched power there, the small black/yellow wire should have 12V with the ignition in start and none at all other times.

              The other two terminals are ground and 12V from the battery. you could have tested it wrong.

              good luck

              The big fat ass red wire is postive 12V all day long. The other ones (that are smaller) I checked with somebody turning the key. The one that hooks up on top turns my test light on when the key is turned so that is good.

              I am going to check my grounds tomorrow then if they are good pull that starter off. Yippee.

              I guess I will pull the whole manifold... and paint it while it is off. Fun!

              Would normal spray paint be OK? It doesnt get "that" hot
              Last edited by 5Toes; 11-20-2011, 10:10 PM.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by 5Toes View Post
                The big fat ass red wire is postive 12V all day long. The other ones (that are smaller) I checked with somebody turning the key. The one that hooks up on top turns my test light on when the key is turned so that is good.

                I am going to check my grounds tomorrow then if they are good pull that starter off. Yippee.

                I guess I will pull the whole manifold... and paint it while it is off. Fun!

                Would normal spray paint be OK? It doesnt get "that" hot
                why pull the manifold if the starter is out? Unless you changed your mind at some point and want to do this? if you do take it out. putting the starter back in while the manifold is off will make installation much easier.

                I would get the manifold sand blasted first before painting and prepped properly otherwise the paint will eventually peel. it can't have any wax (which is does from the factory undercoat) and any oil etc on it. Clean it real good. You can also get the crinkle spray paint out there. remember to make life easier, put the starter in first. :-)
                sigpic

                Comment


                  #23
                  Well a local guy is powdercoating my intake mani for me for only $40. Pretty awesome

                  So I am checking my ground today afterschool and if it is good... Im pulling the airbox and the intake boot... and if I have time the intake manifold/throttle body

                  Comment


                    #24
                    I just paid 120.00 for crinkle black powder coated intake plus my 2 hours traveling time and gas. consider that a sweeeeeet deal!! take it!
                    Attached Files
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Yup.. he is about 10 minutes away. It is looking like I have to buy a pound of powder though to get the color I want.

                      $25 shipped for a lb of powder... I wish people didn't gouge on shipping

                      Comment


                        #26
                        everyone is out to make a buck man...this is the harsh reality.
                        sigpic

                        Comment


                          #27
                          I know. I am glad I found a guy so cheap. If I like his work... bottlecaps might get paint one day.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            I get bottle caps or basket weaves done single color for about 100ea 25 more for each wheel size up and a bit more for premium colors like candy or translucent
                            sigpic

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Wow... this guy does bottlecaps for $35 each!

                              Anyways. He quoted me $55 for my valve cover and intake manifold! I am so happy, now I just got to buy the powder! I cant decide what color!

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by 5Toes View Post
                                Wow... this guy does bottlecaps for $35 each!

                                Anyways. He quoted me $55 for my valve cover and intake manifold! I am so happy, now I just got to buy the powder! I cant decide what color!
                                Just hope that he preps it properly otherwise the paint will chip easy..so make sure cheap price isn't always quality work..just make sure..
                                sigpic

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X