diesel questions

[RickSloan]

Yes it has a block heater and a fuel heater i believe. Ill strat plugging the block in on days that i know im going to work on it.

Now if i put addative in, would it make sense to put some in at the filter just before the pump? or just add it to the 1/4 tank of fuel?

[bmwstudent]

it will have to get pretty cold for the diesel to gel , we don't typically have issues with that until it gets below twenty degrees. Stanadyne blue diesel treatment, is the way to go. it is the ONLY MANUFACTURER APPROVED AND RECOMMENDED FUEL TREATMENT, and it really works, increases cetane also and provides lubricity for pump parts. Ever since the gov switched to ultra low sulfur diesel we have been running this in all of our equipment. Follow instructions, adding more than recommended will not help.

[E30_fiend]

If i were you, I would add it to the tank then empty out the filter and let the treated fuel prime into the filter on its own.

Let us know how it goes.


Taylor

[RickSloan]

i took a look at the pump today to see if i could see the solenoid that was mentioned. it seems to be buried on the bottom of the pump and i would have to remove the pump and some other components on the pump to remove and replace it. what are the chances that it is bad and is there a way i can check?

Also what are the odds that this pump is clogged inside from sitting for 3 or 4 years?

And not to confuse the org topic but since i have the attention of 2 skilled diesel techs. I have a 2000 ford excursion with a 7.3 powerstroke. it puffs a lot of white smoke on start up, and occasionally at a stop after it has been running a while. On start up if i boost or start driving it will stop smoking until i am off the throttle and then it will smoke again. What could this be?

[E30_fiend]

With the powerstroke, they have been known to have problems with their glow plugs and respective relay. You're in PA so its probably getting colder and colder there.

I would start with replacing the glow plugs but one other thing to check is for oil in the intake valley between the heads. Sometimes when the 7.3s are low on oil, they blow white smoke.

So first off, check your oil. If its low, add oil but your problem is likely an oil leak. If not, blow plugs are the likely culprit. But since they are ALSO more expensive, its easier to start with the cheap and/or free things.

Lucky you, my specialty is Ford v8s both gas and diesel.


Taylor

[RickSloan]

Thank you sir, i will check the oil today.

With the powerstroke, they have been known to have problems with their glow plugs and respective relay. You're in PA so its probably getting colder and colder there.

I would start with replacing the glow plugs but one other thing to check is for oil in the intake valley between the heads. Sometimes when the 7.3s are low on oil, they blow white smoke.

So first off, check your oil. If its low, add oil but your problem is likely an oil leak. If not, blow plugs are the likely culprit. But since they are ALSO more expensive, its easier to start with the cheap and/or free things.

Lucky you, my specialty is Ford v8s both gas and diesel.


Taylor

[bmwstudent]

i can see the run solenoid sitting directly in front of where the injector lines hookup, under the supply and return lines. It should just unscrew, without disassembling the pump. As for your 7.3, i would say its difficult to diagnose from the couch. But if it smokes after its hot then its not the glow plugs. They only operate at startup for a short period of time. Over the years i have seen a lot of washed out injectors. Diesel fuel lubricates a the moving parts inside of injectors and after many million injection cycles, those parts come become worn. Also the injector tip has very small orifices through which the fuel is forced through and atomized. Same deal, after million of injection cycles those orifices become slightly oversized, leading to less atomization, resulting in hard to light fuel especially at lower cylinder temps i.e. idle and startup. If it doesn't bother you don't sweat it. Injectors aren't cheap. If you know how to use an ammeter you can check the glow plugs, they should draw around 6-8 amps a piece

[einstein57]

Diesel Tech here as well.



Taylor

I did not know that. Guess you gets to find me and install a cummins 12mm rotor head and cam plate?



OP you might want to check through the documents hosted on mye28. There is a lot of godd information there.

http://www.mye28.com/viewforum.php?f=12

[E30_fiend]

Lolol

[RickSloan]

Yea i posted this same thread on mye28 and have been constantly scanning old threads and this thread has been a million times more helpful by far.

I did not know that. Guess you gets to find me and install a cummins 12mm rotor head and cam plate?



OP you might want to check through the documents hosted on mye28. There is a lot of godd information there.

http://www.mye28.com/viewforum.php?f=12

[bmwstudent]

Hey Rick, I'll be in or near Quakertown tomorrow. Is that anywhere near you? Maybe I can stop by, try to help you out?

[RickSloan]

Hey Rick, I'll be in or near Quakertown tomorrow. Is that anywhere near you? Maybe I can stop by, try to help you out?

Why didnt i see this until now!!! I live in QUAKERTOWN!!!

any chance you will be up again in the near future??? I would pay you to come out honestly...

[2mAn]

just scanned the thread, but it sounds like the "new" pump is bad. this is common on older diesels. any luck getting this going? if it was me, id send the pump that came off the parts car to get rebuilt (great buy by the name of Giles in canada who will do magic to that pump)

edit: also if you havent bought a timing kit yet, do it. they are very useful and once you get the hang of setting the timing you will be able to do it easily. the timing only has to be off by a few mm's for the car not to start.