Opinions on potential 318is purchase

[brianf408]

Alright I've been lurking for quite some time now, and I finally have the cash to purchase an e30 (or e34 or e36 if I find one). I'm currently driving a 94 Miata, and will be selling it shortly after I purchase another vehicle. Looking to spend $3k or less on a running car that's either DD ready or could be a DD with a little work.

I was originally looking for something with under 200k miles, working AC, etc but I keep getting back to this one on Craigslist which is just a few miles from my home:
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/2882894220.html

Now it's a bit more of a project than I had originally hoped, but if it's not in too bad of shape (don't know any more than what the ad shows, haven't gotten a call back yet), do you guys think it could potentially make a decent DD? I've heard of M42s lasting a looong time, so not sure how much the mileage really worries me. I just figure from what I can see the body looks straight and pretty rust-free, toss a new fender and grill on, straighten the hood, and spend a Saturday buffing it out. Not sure what he means by "undercarriage work" but needing an exhaust is fine by me, and I'd probably refresh the suspension and bushings on any car I pick up regardless of condition. Just figure buying at a cheaper price will give me more fun money to do what I want with it.

Also if it affects any advice I'm ASE certified, can do just about any job in my garage with my tool setup.

[peytonracer4]

i bought my 318is for $1800. it was a mess. there's a dent on every panel. there was a leaky gas tank and honestly countless problem.
right now (including the cost of the car) i'm roughly $3200 in. i've done a TON of work on it. all labor done myself so all the cost has been parts.

there's things that are m42 specific such as timing issues. but other things are just "e30 things" such as gauge clusters not working, electrical gremlins and such.
can it be a reliable DD? sure why not. the engine and drivetrain should be fine depending on it's current condition. it's the little things that make an e30 a constant project. i feel like i'll find something different everyday. from the trunk lock not working to the obc lights going out. it's an old car but it is reliable depending on the care taken of it.

as far as the undercarriage problems, he might mean rust on the floor panels. that's something you'll want to check just in case.

[brianf408]

Well I finally heard back from him a while ago, going to look at it tomorrow. He was very descriptive with the condition of the car. Says it's been in his family since 2001 and he has all the records from that time to current. Here's what he told me about all the stuff on the car.

Issues:

• Alternator will run the car but won't keep batt. charged, so puts on a tender every night.
• Exhaust is leaking/loud (this is what he kept referring to as "undercarriage")
• Steering shimmy just started
• Aftermarket stereo faceplate stolen (I have another stereo)
• Interior "good for car of its age," has crack in the dash and windshield, driver's seat worn but not torn
• AC doesn't work, guessing compressor bad
• Power steering reservoir leaks slowly, says he tops it off about every 3 months
• Tires so-so, spare tire needs replaced
• No rust that he knows of
• Key broken off in driver's door
• Sunroof handle gone but roof works and doesn't leak
• Driver's fender and grill damaged just like in pictures. Not sure if the hood is bent or just hinges sitting cockeyed or something.
• Power windows work, as does the odometer which seems rare

He also told me it's a rebuilt salvage title, he says that's how his uncle or whoever purchased the car in 2001 and he doesn't know what the cause was for salvage. Otherwise the issues seem pretty common among all the BMWs I've seen for sale, so this one at a lower entry price may be a good foundation. The AC work seems to be the most daunting issue to me, just because I'm not the best at diagnosing AC issues. I've always been lucky and had leaking valve-stems and such. I've already priced up shocks, springs, bushings, alternator, guibo, and some AC components. I've also found an e36 M3 steering rack local for $125. Browsing local forums for wheels and tires.

I'll probably at least do a timing chain tensioner as well if I purchase. If I decide to replace the chain, is there an entire timing chain "kit" or some sort of package with chain, sprockets, tensioner, etc?

What do you guys recommend for exhaust? I can't really find much out there other than SuperSprint, and that's a bit pricey. If not much out there then I'll probably just get a custom job to a Magnaflow or something.

Peytonracer4 thanks for the input. I don't mind lots of little things, I just want the car to start every morning. I guess I should have mentioned that the car will only be a semi-DD; if it's above freezing and not raining then I'm on my motorcycle. Plus as soon as the Miata is gone I'll be hunting for a beater truck to add to the stable as well. I'm trying to find a car that I can put some work into and keep around for a long time, eventually being my weekend project/toy. How many miles are on your car btw?

[Davidov]

Well I finally heard back from him a while ago, going to look at it tomorrow. He was very descriptive with the condition of the car. Says it's been in his family since 2001 and he has all the records from that time to current. Here's what he told me about all the stuff on the car.

This is good when buying a car. Someone who has owned the car for a long while.

Issues:

• Alternator will run the car but won't keep batt. charged, so puts on a tender every night.
• Exhaust is leaking/loud (this is what he kept referring to as "undercarriage")
• Steering shimmy just started
• Aftermarket stereo faceplate stolen (I have another stereo)
• Interior "good for car of its age," has crack in the dash and windshield, driver's seat worn but not torn
• AC doesn't work, guessing compressor bad
• Power steering reservoir leaks slowly, says he tops it off about every 3 months
• Tires so-so, spare tire needs replaced
• No rust that he knows of
• Key broken off in driver's door
• Sunroof handle gone but roof works and doesn't leak
• Driver's fender and grill damaged just like in pictures. Not sure if the hood is bent or just hinges sitting cockeyed or something.
• Power windows work, as does the odometer which seems rare

These are all common issues on any car this age.

He also told me it's a rebuilt salvage title, he says that's how his uncle or whoever purchased the car in 2001 and he doesn't know what the cause was for salvage.

Deal breaker.

[KenC]

I wouldn't pay a dime over $400 for it. Seriously.

I know M42s VERY well, and if the rest of the car is that neglected, you're in for a wild ride with the engine. It wasn't BMW's finest piece of machinery.

[brianf408]

Alright well the news is I bought it. Got it for $900. I was actually impressed with how well the car ran. No engine noise at all at cold startup, ran strong, great power, shifted smoothly, clutch very good. Unfortunately due to the charging system issues I can't drive it home until tomorrow after he leaves it on the charger all night (and my wife wonders why I want a truck with a tow-dolly).

Interior was fairly clean other than the few cracks in the dash, and a couple tears in the driver's seat. The body damage was exclusive to the fender and bumper/valence. Frame is good and the hood just needs adjusted a bit. Even have the front chin spoiler in the trunk in good shape.

The selling point for me was the rust. Or lack thereof. I couldn't see ANY. Battery tray and floor pans all looked good even. Hell even if the engine turns out to be junk I've at least got a decent platform for a swap.

I can't decide if I should just pick up an alternator tomorrow before I pick it up, or mess with it and just double check that I don't have a weird grounding issue or something before buying the part. I'm going to get a tensioner for the chain, go through all the engine fluids, and check the upper/lower pan situation. I'll be picking a shock/spring combination, new bushings/control arms, guibo, and exhaust. Found new grilles, and will be checking around for a new fender and bumper and valence.

[KenC]

Take the valve cover off and do a quick assessment of the visible timing components.


The steering shake is one or all of the following:
Worn control arm bushings
Worn control arm ball joins
Worn inner and/or outer tie rods
Unbalanced wheels.

[brianf408]

Take the valve cover off and do a quick assessment of the visible timing components.


The steering shake is one or all of the following:
Worn control arm bushings
Worn control arm ball joins
Worn inner and/or outer tie rods
Unbalanced wheels.

The previous owner thought the shaking was a big deal, but I really didn't notice it much. Mostly seemed like an out of balance wheel on the highway. Won't keep me from doing the bushings and ball joints anyways though. Can't decide if I want to look at something like an e36 rack or just do the tie-rod ends if needed.

[peytonracer4]

Peytonracer4 thanks for the input. I don't mind lots of little things, I just want the car to start every morning. I guess I should have mentioned that the car will only be a semi-DD; if it's above freezing and not raining then I'm on my motorcycle. Plus as soon as the Miata is gone I'll be hunting for a beater truck to add to the stable as well. I'm trying to find a car that I can put some work into and keep around for a long time, eventually being my weekend project/toy. How many miles are on your car btw?

my cluster says about 160k miles. but the speedo and ODO didn't work when i got the car so i don't know how long it was like that. i've opened up valve cover a couple times. my timing sprockets are pretty worn but i'm not about to replace them. it doesn't make very much noise at all at any rpm so i'm not worried about it right now. i might replace the tensioner to the updated one at some point but for now it should be good.
i've had to replace quite a bit that i didn't notice at first. once you drive the car around daily you'll have a better understanding of what it needs.

my interior as of right now is pretty minty fresh. everything except the carpet is really nice. i actually reupholstered the drivers seat because it looked like it was attacked by a dog. but now everything is nice.

hopefully all goes well with your new "is"
post up some pics so we can check it out.

[gr8skyr]

M42 tensioners should be replaced @ 50,000 miles. We did my buddies 1991is and it took maybe 10 minutes- having a beer for about 5 minutes of that time.

Easiest job on any BMW I've ever come across.

[jt223539]

I can almost guarantee I know what the problem is on your charging system. Do not spend the 100+ for a new or used alternator. There is a voltage regulator that you can un screw from the back of the alternator. Here is a link to a picture of it:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-89-Alternator/Pic4-01.jpg

What happens is the brushes get worn down and can no longer regulate the voltage going thru the system. So you have what appears to be a bad alternator, but in turn it is a $25 replaceable part. I was unable to get this part from a local auto parts store, I was forced to just order it online from a parts supplier, think it ended up costing $25 shipped (for a BNIB Bosch one).

Also here is a link to a thread that talks about it:

http://m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7175

Oh and here is a link to a place you can get the part:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/catalog/shopcart/BE30/POR_BE30_ELchrg_pg1.htm

If you have not yet, join M42club.com. Place has a lot of great info related specifically to the M42 engine, has helped me out mulitple times.

[brianf408]

Just took a quick pic after I pulled it in the garage this evening. Ran great on the way home, lights started to get just a bit dim after about 10 miles. After it warmed up it seemed the exhaust was making even more noise.

Looked through the records and from about 2003 and 2008 the car was driven a total of about 8,000 miles. Regular oil changes, oil pan replaced in 03, some miscellaneous seals, a tie rod, and window switches and such along the way. Plugs and wires at 205,000 miles. In 2002 at about 185,000 miles a used transmission was installed with 109,000 miles on it, along with a new clutch and rear main seal. No record of any timing work, so I'll be at least getting a tensioner and guides.

Thanks for the tip on the voltage regulator, I'll check that out as soon as I finish eating dinner in a bit. Going to be getting the car up on jack stands tonight and beginning my inspection and fluid changes.

Question: car runs great, gets to temperature well, etc. The only thing is when I pulled it in the garage there was just a bit of coolant smell and a little steam looking like it was coming from the driver's side and rear of engine. Seemed maybe a little seepage from the freaking rat's nest of hoses under the intake. Seem like a probable cause?

Many more pictures to come! So far I have to say I'm pleased for $900.

[Vivek]

It looks good :)

[110stx]

Hey, homie.

Is that a slicktop?

[jt223539]

Definitely address the rats nest under the intake manifold soon, for extra piece of mind if nothing else.

I also own a 318is and attacked the rats nest as soon as I got it. Also replaced the injectors with the 4 pintle mustang ones while I was in there. Since you car had 200k+ I don't think it would hurt to look into doing that, or even just getting sone new stock injectors wouldn't be a bad idea.

Link to thread that talks bout rats nest (I followed this exactly, even blocked the cooling system port, and have 10k+ miles with no issues):

http://m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3621

And here is a link to the mustang injectors (kind of hard to follow, just know that the info is in there just takes a little reading):

http://m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233

I would also reccommend that you pull the lower oil pan and check to make sure all the bolts under there are still tight. Here is a link to a thread that will show you what I am talking about:

http://m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=594

Have you joined m42club yet? Plenty of threads on there that will help you tackle all the common issues these cars have, and even some that are not. Might want to think about pulling the valve cover and taking a look at the Cam gears, that will give you a idea as to what the rest of the components look like.

Sorry for dumping all of this info on you, just trying to help guide you to a long lasting m42 engine.