fuel pump fuse keeps popping, but not when I put a 10A in

[jrobie79]

So I replaced my fuel pump with a TRE performance one about 2 months ago. The connector at the pump was giving me grief (needed to have it shimmed so there was constant downward pressure on it or else it wouldnt run, if I shook it while running it would die).

I took some quick disconnects see here:


and forced the end that accepts wire (of the male portion) onto the male prongs on the pump and crimped the quick connect portion of the connector to the wires from the 'harness'. All was fine for about 3 weeks until I left my car idling to flush the cooling system and the fuel pump popped - so I changed it and same thing after about 1 minute. I put a 10A fuse in its spot and nothing wrong....

Also to add, my ICV is making a very audible buzzing, but the one on my sisters car is not

AND I put my sisters ICV in my car and drove to Delaware this past weekend and the fused popped 3 times. The fuse only popped on me once above 15 mph, every other time I was going through a toll boothput the 10A in its place, made it all the way home no problems...

Is my "mickey mouse" connection causing too much resistance? or could the ICV be a problem?

[DREWHALL]

One thing you left out is what rating fuse you removed. Are you talking about the 15A? If you pulled out a 15A and put in a 10A, and it keeps blowing, there's your answer. Either the pump is drawing more current than the fuse you're using will allow, or your wiring is jive and grounding out intermittently.

For the ICV, take it out and shake it around. Should rattle. If it doesn't rattle, it is gummed up/mechanically jammed. Free it up or get a new one.

As far as I know(and I may be wrong) the ICV shouldn't have an effect on the fuel pump circuit. You can unplug the ICV and still get power to the fuel pump. Pump is on/off controlled by a relay.

If you got a good crimp on the wire it should be sufficient for the pump. Unless the wire is smaller than the stock fuel pump wire. THEN you found your cause.

[jrobie79]

fuel pump fuse is 7.5amp, did not change any wires, just different connections. I think I'm going to replace my relays anyways just b/c they are 20 years old. It drives fine with a 10A fuse in there, and I dont think 2.5 additional amps is going to cause a fire.

[FLG]

ICV's are supposed to buzz.

[HarryPotter]

Eh I wouldn't start putting bigger fuses in to solve anything. I did this once and was blessed with melted wires. Like drew said check the wiring to make sure it's not grounding out on anything.

[Highway1]

My TRE pump also blows 7.5a fusses. I've been using 10a in there for over a year with no problems.

[ross1]

You still have a poor connection, drawing more amps and making heat too I'd guess. Fix the connection.

[German Audio Specialties]

fuel pump fuse is 7.5amp, did not change any wires, just different connections. I think I'm going to replace my relays anyways just b/c they are 20 years old. It drives fine with a 10A fuse in there, and I dont think 2.5 additional amps is going to cause a fire.

Exactly...a 20%ish bump in amperage ratings should pose no issue to the wire.

Double or triple (or more) and you should always carry a fire extinguisher.

You still have a poor connection, drawing more amps and making heat too I'd guess. Fix the connection.

Those "bullet" connectors suck ass, I would never use those in a situation like a fuel pump, something "Mission Critical" like that.

if you really want to make it correct, it is possible, but you already have a relay before the fuse and you aren't asking much over stock. I would rock it in a heartbeat on MY car, but I don't think I would do that on a customers car.

HTH,
Luke

[jrobie79]

I'm gonna get some better connectors, I haven't heard too much good things about those bullet connections. If that doesn't help maybe I'll run some newer wires to deal with the higher amperage. For now, if it ain't broke I ain't fixing it

[TobyB]

uhhh... what's the pump's rated current draw? If it draws 10a, it needs a 10a fuse.
If the connector's dropping much voltage, it'll heat right up- but I bet it's not.
Subaru used to use those darned things, and while they aren't great,
they USUALLY do work.

Then look at the ETM- there are lots of places that BMW put in
a large wire but a smaller fuse protects it. So some, you can uprate.
Others, not so much.

Oh, look, p 1360-6- it's a 1.5mm2 wire with a 7.5a fuse behind it.

Not knowing my metrics, I look around and see that lots of other places,
BMW's used a 15a fuse on a 1.5mm2 wire, and come to the conclusion that you are
perfectly safe to uprate that fuse to 10a.

The earlier cars used a 15a fuse, after all...

t