Car suddenly won't start, no power mirrors or windows

[kingston]

Guys,

I've been driving an M50-swapped `88 325 for about 9 months with ZERO issues. Engine was from a manual transmission `94 E36 325is. My car is a manual car as well.

Today, my car didn't want to start. Didn't turn the starter over, nothing. After wiggling the steering wheel back and forth a few times while holding the key on, she turned over, but ran like crap, cutting out and stuff. Intermittent voltage. Now she won't try to fire at all. Doesn't crank, nothing.

Additional symptoms:
Windows stopped working
Power mirrors stopped working.

The radio works
the wipers work
the OBC works
the check panel works

My grounds all appear to be in good condition.
The huge fuse on the positive battery cable in the trunk is fine.
I replaced the Main Relay with a known good working one.
I replaced all the relays in the fuse box with known working ones.

I have not replaced either of the other 2 relays (fuel pump & ?). Doesn't seem like either should be causing these symptoms.

Wiring harness adapter was done by EricT (I haven't had any issues with it, I just thought that question might come up).

I'm pretty screwed, in that I'm supposed to do my first ever HPDE this weekend, and now my only suitable track car won't run!

Please help!!!

[jlevie]

The windows and mirrors not working suggests that the unloader relays are engaging. That could be the relays or the unloader switch in the starter.

The wiggling of the steering wheel might be meaningful, or it may have nothing to do with the cause. But the first check would be to see if ignition power is being supplied to the car and whether the starter is getting solenoid power from the switch.

[kingston]

Jim, thank you! The starter was new a year ago, but I suppose it is possible that it has crapped out.

I had the same thought about the wheel, that it might not mean anything, but thought that I should mention it.

I was told that there is a plastic connector that frequently fails and that I should bypass it. It is the one containing 5 wires coming from the ignition switch. A blue, a blue/yellow stripe, a purple/white stripe a blue/green stripe and a blue/black striped wire (IIRC). I cut the wires, spliced them together to bypass the coupler, with no change.

[jlevie]

While that connector can be a problem, failure of the ignition switch is more common.

[kingston]

Jim, thank you for the response!!

I replaced the ignitions swith today with a known good one. No change,

Again, I could get the car to start, but I had to turn the wheel WAAAY to the right and kind of turn it back and forth a bit. When it starts all the accessories work. So, I tried turning the blower motor on and doing the same thing. Sometimes the car wouldn't start, but when I turned the wheel way to the right, I could get the windows & blower to work. I really feel like it has to be something on the steering column that is affected by the wheel turning. Any thoughts anyone??? Please help!

[5Toes]

Have you put a test light on the black/yellow on the starter connections and made sure they are all good??

[kingston]

I possess neither a test light, nor the knowledge of how to use one. Currently getting ready to jack up the car & see if the steering knuckle has gotten wires tangled in it or something. I'll be trying to check the starter wires while I'm under there.
This sucks; I am fine with mechanical repairs, but I am ignorant of electrical systems...

[5Toes]

Walmart has them for like $3.. get one when you get your car going!

[Gregs///M]

Double check battery is load tested to see if good. Be sure battery connections are clean and tight. Check engine to chassis ground cable is not corroded or has poor connection. Replace cable or try cleaning connects at oil pan and frame rail. This cable closes ground loop for all engine electronics including starting.

[Jaxx_]

AC fan isn't working either, is it?

The black/yellow also functions as the ground for the unloader relays. If it isn't connected, you power windows/mirrors/ac fan won't work. It might be different from all the years, but this is the case in my '84.

the black/yellow is the 12V signal to engage the starter solenoid. You should check for a wire connect on the bottom spade terminal of the starter solenoid. If it isn't connected, or connected well, the relays won't close, nor will you be able to signal the starter. (all your problems in one wire)

Check that, report back. Like I said, I think it's black/yellow.

[5Toes]

My 89 has the black/yellow or whatever for the starter signal, and a black/green 18 gauge wire for unloader relay ground

[Brileyb]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I'm having the exact problem with my m50 swapped 87 325e. Does the black/ yellow on the starter cause this? Or what did you find the problem was? My starter stud where that wire goes is loose in the starter so I'm hoping thats my problem, going to replace the starter.