324td starting issues...

[RickSloan]

I know there are a few diesel guys on here and had helped me out in a previous thread. I bought the car with a leaky injection pump. I got the pump rebuilt and it is now back in the car. I now have my 324td running (sort of) but there are 2 big issues.

One it will not idle long and two it will not start by cranking. It will only start if I pull or pop start it.

If I drive the car around the block and get it warm, then come to a stop and shut it down or it will stall, it will still not start with cranking.

I am at a loss and have been fighting this thing for months. I think I have the timing right but i could still be 180 degrees off on the pump. When it is running it revs great, and has some power but not much, and makes white/grayish smoke.

Am I 180 degrees of on the pump gear? Is there a selanoid or anything that would keep fuel from flowing while cranking but will let it pop start?

Any insight would be awesome...

TIA

[NeedaBimmer]

It's not 'td specific but broken injectors can make the exhaust be white/grayish. So your pump gear could be 180* off. I'm sorry I can't be more helpful.

[RickSloan]

I'm going to spin the gear 180* after work today and see if that does it.

[RickSloan]

Turned the pump Gear 180* and it still won't start on its own. Tried to pop start it as well and it struggled. So I think the gear needs to go 180* again.

Is there any way to see TDC on the crank without using the pin hole in the flywheel? When the 5 speed was put in this car, the person who did it, did not drill a hole in the flywheel for the pin...

[jlevie]

There might be a mark on the front crank hub.

[quickervicar]

Sounds like your timing is off a bit. I'd try to advance it a hair & see if it improves. On old IDI VW engines you can loosen the pump bolts just enough to move the pump with soft taps of a mallet. You want a "crisp" ignition sound, though not harsh & metallic.

[bmwstudent]

Diesel guy here. If the car runs at all the pump can't be out 180. Put it back where you had it. Does the car smoke when you crank it over? If it does its getting fuel. It sounds like you might possibly needs fuel filter change. Diesels are really fuel filter sensitive. Also remove the air filter and see if it starts or check for any intake obstruction. If it is starving for air it may start when you pop start it because you might be spinning the motor faster than the starter motor can spin it.

[RickSloan]

That is by far the best advise I have gotten this entire 6 months. I think you may have finally given me hope.

[bmwstudent]

well i hope it helps. I think i was talking to you about this car a while ago. Weren't you trying to time the injection pump this past winter? Sorry i couldn't come up and help you out personally. I did find some info on timing the pump in a book called The e30 restoration bible. If you need any info pm me and i can look it up, if its in the book i have. I can't be sure but, if the car started and ran well and then gradually got worse its most likely a filter. Either fuel or air. These things weren't powerhouses so if you had it running and it revved well and made decent power i would assume you had the pump timed correctly.

[RickSloan]

That was me over the winter. Turned out the pump that I put in wasn't any good... so I pulled it and had the first pump rebuilt.

After hyper fest this weekend im going to reset the timing and replace the filter. I have a good feeling that is finally the issue.

I did however get good at setting the timing unfortunately haha

[2mAn]

Usually the grayish/ white smoke is unburnt fuel. diesels are also very sensitive to timing. im assuming you have a dial gauge? with the IDI diesels (where i got all my diesel "knowledge") a pump set to .95 ran great. and a pump set to 1.05 may not even run. also it was mentioned earlier, but the IDI diesels have an adjustment bolt. id loosen that and play with the pump to see where it would run better. you're close, dont give up!

[bmwstudent]

any adjustment bolt they provide for timing purposes are generally meant for the pump shop's internal timing adjustments. At most USUALLY, they will provide slotted mounting tabs where the pump bolts to the block. This is where the installer has the ability to adjust the timing, but only a very small amount. Maybe 1-5 degrees. I would put it right back to where you had it originally and leave it. Diesels are extremely sensitive to timing and thats exactly why i wouldn't go messing around changing any adjustment bolts on the pump. That is if there are any even there, anything with lock tight or tamper paint on them should be left alone. Those setting are for the pump shop. Change your fuel filter and prime it up and see what happens.

[quickervicar]

anything with lock tight or tamper paint on them should be left alone. Those setting are for the pump shop.

True. Do not mess.

As mentioned before, diesels are VERY sensitive to pump timing, and it can be quite difficult to set & hold the correct value. Double-check your numbers after spinning the crank a couple of times.

Also, the fact that you have to pull-start tells me that either your timing is off or your glow plug system isn't functioning properly. (but probably both)

[RickSloan]

I only adjust the timing by tilting the pump. No internal timing is being touched.

also, as far as the glow plugs. I can pull start the car, drive it around and get it warm and then shut it down, and it still will not start with the key, which I feel rules out the glow plugs. Plus when I got the car, before taking the pump out the first time, it started with the key, so I feel the glow plugs are still good.

[RickSloan]

any more ideas? re adjusted the gear back to where it will run, idled for a short time after pull starting. But the idle was not smooth, really hunting. I have not adjusted the timing again with the dial indicator tho. Still doesn't want to start with the key...