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    Removing Convertible Rear Panels

    Hey guys,

    Im trying to install a complete convertible top with brackets. It looks like I will need to remove the rear panels but I am having a real hard problem getting this done. Anyone has a suggestion?

    Mark

    #2
    From what i remember you remove the seats and pull the speaker covers off (held on by clips). Then i think you may have to remove the top cover release handle if its manual and remove some screws? Then you just pull up. This is all based off of memory though from 5-6 yrs ago...

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      #3
      That's pretty close. I did this yesterday so hopefully still remember :-)

      Remove the back seat. I got away with just the seat bottom. Remove the release handle trim by sliding it forward and out. Remove speaker cover by easing out the top (metal spring clips) then lifting (careful not to break the plastic clips that hold the bottom). Remove 2 screws behind the speaker panel. Pry off door weather strip. On mine the vinyl cover of the panel was wrapped around the raw metal edge of the body under the weather stripping but released easily with some gentle coaxing. Then you slide the entire panel forward & up a bit. I left the seat belt in place and twisted the panel around to set it outside.
      Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
      Alice the Time Capsule
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
      87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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        #4
        Originally posted by keada714 View Post
        Hey guys,

        Im trying to install a complete convertible top with brackets. It looks like I will need to remove the rear panels but I am having a real hard problem getting this done. Anyone has a suggestion?

        Mark
        Mark, are you sure you should be attempting one of the toughest jobs to do on an E30? Pulling the panels is a 2 minute job and is super simple while aligning a top takes hours and hours...you sure you wannna tackle that job?

        Closing SOON!
        "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

        Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

        Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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          #5
          Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
          Mark, are you sure you should be attempting one of the toughest jobs to do on an E30? Pulling the panels is a 2 minute job and is super simple while aligning a top takes hours and hours...you sure you wannna tackle that job?
          If he is swapping out the top AND frame isnt it just 6 bolts and aligning ? Not to say its a breeze but it should be a lot easier than replacing the canvas
          Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
          Alice the Time Capsule
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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            #6
            Replacing the canvas isnt bad, just time consuming. If i had to do it over would i change the frame/canvas as a whole for a perfect OE unit? Maybe...
            Last edited by jw 325ic; 06-28-2012, 04:21 PM.

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              #7
              As Jeff said, I'm not replacing the canvas but the complete top with the bracket. Thanks for the response! Will do this today!

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                #8
                Originally posted by keada714 View Post
                As Jeff said, I'm not replacing the canvas but the complete top with the bracket. Thanks for the response! Will do this today!
                Well, it is still an evil job, frame and all.

                As he said, just pull the little covers (use a better grade plastic knife), the clips you need to not break are at the top. Don't take the speaker mount screws out, there is no need.

                Oh yeah, pull the "pinch-weld" on the trailing edge of the door jamb.

                When you put them back in, watch to make sure the top edge is 100% fully aligned. The easy thing to check is the window scraper on the inside...if it ain't solid up against the window, it isn't done.

                GL!
                Luke

                August R3VLimited Special: E3012 "V3" box: $225 shipped

                Tutorials: Killer $500 Stereo | E30 Vert Dual 8'' Box Installation | E3010 Amp Rack Installation | Radio Wiring and Amp Bypass

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                  #9
                  bumping an old thread, does anyone know the specs of the rear speakers in a cab? is there a small midbass I can swap in there for a sub-like effect? I know it's not as good as a sub.

                  I have just done a premium sound upgrade with JVC HU and 4 channel amp in the trunk pumping the stock speakers. 50 watt x 4 amp, a sony

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