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Picked up an e30 Convertible last week..

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    Picked up an e30 Convertible last week..

    Hi All,

    I picked up a 1987 325i Convertible last week, 260k on the clock. NC car, zero rust outside of the battery tray. The hood has some minor rock dings, but nothing I would quite call a dent. New paint. Interior is in spectacular shape outside of a few busted handles. I purchased it from the 2nd owner, who has owned it since 1989. He provided 22 years worth of service records, but they are essentially worthless as the PO refused any major service that was suggested...

    Pics:





    So, digging through the service records and from what is written under the hood, it appears that the timing belt was last swapped in 1997, 130k miles ago. I have a regular shop I use, but I am not crazy enough to drive it with the existing timing belt (it was gently driven straight home after purchase (5mi) and has been parked there since).

    I went through it pretty thoroughly, had to use some degreaser to find some of the leaks because there was so much muck underneath...

    Issues
    • Timing belt is 15 years old and has 132k on it
    • Accessory belts should be replaced (alt belt is dry rotted and cracking)
    • Oil leak at front of engine, suspect cam or crank seal
    • Water pump grinding noises at mid-level RPMs
    • Steering rack is leaking, appears to be coming from the hose connections (not boots)
    • Oil return tube/pipe is leaking
    • Vacuum leaks around idle control valve
    • Valve cover breather hose that runs to intake manifold is damaged (vacuum leak + oil leak)
    • Valve cover gasket appears to be leaking
    • Valves need to be adjusted (long overdue)
    • Plug wires need to be replaced
    • Two nuts are missing on the valve cover
    • Rear of battery tray under hood is rusted, 3”x1” hole at the rear that is allowing water to enter the passenger floorboard. No tie-down for battery or vent tube present.
    • Splash guard is missing several screws
    • Fuse in ABS relay is blown
    • Windshield washer sensor is not working
    • Possible oil pan gasket leak, but could be other oil leaks running down the block
    • Rear main seal and/or transmission input shaft is leaking
    • Transmission fluid leak from top of trans – suspect selector shaft seal
    • Transmission fluid leak from transmission output shaft seal
    • Flex disc needs to be replaced
    • Differential output shafts appear to be leaking
    • Differential cover is leaking
    • Drivers door handle is broken
    • Convertible door handle is broken
    • Shift boot is torn
    • Carpet needs to be cleaned (no major staining)
    • Radio is locked, possibly non-functional but I think it just needs the code
    • Radio antenna is missing, antenna cables have been cut under dash
    • Drivers high-beam is cracked, all bulbs are different brands/models
    • Drivers fog light lens is cracked
    • Turn signal lenses on front bumper are cracked
    • Passenger side tail light is cracked and seal appears to be leaking
    • Third brake light lens is cracked



    Already fixed:
    • Vaccum leaks around idle control valve
    • ABS Relay
    • Shift boot
    • Cleaned elephant trunk
    • Windshield washer fluid sensor



    So I'm planning to tow this next week (50mi) to my favorite local BMW/MBZ/Porsche shop for some work..


    Planned work:
    • Timing belt
    • Timing belt tensioner
    • Front camshaft seal
    • Intermediate shaft seal
    • Front crankshaft seal (only if leaking)
    • Water pump
    • Thermostat
    • Antifreeze change (radiator + block)
    • Replace all accessory drive belts
    • Valve adjustment
    • Valve cover gasket
    • Rocker arm shaft plugs
    • Replace missing nuts for valve cover
    • New spark plugs
    • Oil change
    • Oil pan gasket (only if leaking)
    • Check oil filter housing gasket for leaks
    • Replace motor mounts
    • Replace transmission input shaft seal
    • Replace transmission output shaft seal
    • Replace transmission selector shaft seal
    • Change transmission fluid (manual trans)
    • Replace transmission mounts
    • Replace flex disc
    • Replace center support bearing

    I'm planning to address the steering rack, rear differential, battery tray, spark plug wires (incl distributor+rotor) on my own after the above is complete.




    I have also been looking at picking up a second e30 -- a 1989 325iC (auto instead of manual) with 62k on the clock for $1800. Also a NC car. Seller states that the odometer started working intermittently "recently" but I'm not so sure if this is true. The seats look like a lot more than 62k, and he has an extra top for it. Zero fluid leaks (anywhere). It was garage kept up until about 4 years ago when the car was willed to someone. This person kept it parked in their driveway for 3 years before selling it (rarely drove it). This is the purported reason the seats are so busted up and paint is faded (3yrs of 100+ degree summers). The engine bay looks clean but that isn't hard to fake :)


    Here are pics of the $1800 62k e30:








    Sorry for such a long post :)


    Questions:
    1. Am I missing anything with regards to the one I've already purchased? Anything else I should have done at the same time as these items (while we're in there)?
    2. Any opinions/insight on the $1800 one? Could probably get the guy down to $1500-1600. My thought was that it would make a nice project, but it's not like it's an m3 and it has an automatic trans :)





    Thanks,
    Rob

    #2
    sweet welcome to the addiction....
    www.instagram.com/snwmble
    #snwmble

    Current:
    '05 BMW M3 - Silver Grey/Imola Red
    '90 BMW 325iX - Sterling Silver/Houndstooth sport(5-speed converted)
    '15 Mini Countryman - Blazing Red/Carbon Black

    Past:
    '01 Audi Allroad - Light Silver/Platinum Saber Black
    '88 BMW 325iX - Diamond Schwarz/Silver sport *Sold*
    '01.5 1.8TQ - Brilliant Black/Nogaro Alcantara ...after 8.5yrs, *Sold* =(
    '90 BMW 325i - Schwarz/Tan sport *Sold*
    '89 BMW 325ix - Diamond Schwarz/Black sport *Sold*

    Comment


      #3
      I just did almost the same list on MY NC Cabrio (including the crank seal, mounts, rack etc) and that's a good starting point to be able to drive it with confidence.

      I just hope you've gotten a quote from your mechanic because that is a s*&^load of labor to pay for. If you are short on time than use that money to buy the 2nd car and take your time fixing it yourself.

      Just my 2c..and welcome aboard.

      ..oh...and if you are pulling the trans anyway to do the input seal, do the engine rear main as well
      Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
      Alice the Time Capsule
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
      87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

      Comment


        #4
        I think addiction sums it up nicely :D I moved to Boston last year with a really nice 1994 740i (e32) -- totaled by someone in a parking lot within 30 days. Labor rates were silly up there so I ended up replacing it with a truck. Moved back to NC about a month ago and immediately started looking for an e30 convertible.

        I thought about doing a good bit of it myself, but I don't even think I would attempt half of it without an air compressor, impact gun, and some more tools. I would go absolutely crazy with it, so the labor will probably cost less than the tools in the end :)

        The trans is leaking at the shifter and output seals, so while they have it out I want all of the seals replaced. I have the rear main seal (crank seal) on my list as well, but I skipped it when typing my post.

        I've requested a quote from my mechanic, but waiting on a callback.. Labor rates are dirt cheap @ 45 p/hr, and they let me source my own parts. They do great work -- entire shop is composed of ex BMW/MBZ mechanics. I'm perfectly comfortable paying for 10-30 hours of labor at $45p/hr -- actually expecting $1k+ of labor easy.


        Thanks,
        Rob

        Comment


          #5
          Nice find! sure its got a few engine problems, but the body seems to be looking great!
          Id have to say my list of things to fix is about as long as yours ;)
          Thats the fun part.
          I don't even own this car anymore, but I'm too lazy to change the picture.

          Comment


            #6
            It's 25 years old, so I expect some decent leaks. Engine itself sounds good and outside of the leaks everything looks really sold. It drives nicely, no shimmy/shake/pull.

            I can tell they didn't really drive it much recently -- spiderwebs in the wheel wells :)

            Comment


              #7
              Opted not to get the second one after all, so it's fair game if anyone in NC is looking :)

              Comment


                #8
                I saw that car in CL...3 e30's is enough for now :-)

                FWIW I dont have an impact gun and only miss it when re&re wheels.

                $45\hr is great for quality work so I see your point. You may want to add a clutch & resurfaced flywheel to your list since they will out anyway.
                Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                Alice the Time Capsule
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                Comment

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