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1984 318i won't start

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    1984 318i won't start

    I am at my wits end with this car... So I replaced the transfer pump because the car was intermittently having hard (mainly cold) starts and intermittent rough idle... Sometimes not starting at all. The car seemed to run great last night. But this morning she seems to be acting the same way as before...
    Symptoms:
    Intermittent (more often than not) No start
    Has Spark
    Rough idle (when it is hard to start)
    Buzzing coming from Fuel pressure regulator ( is that normal?)

    New parts:
    Cold start temp sensor
    New fuel transfer pump

    Help?
    Last edited by shadowbethesda; 07-21-2012, 05:22 PM.
    1989 325i Cabriolet Auto
    1990 325i Coupe Auto (sold)
    1987 325i Cabriolet Manual (sold)
    1989 325i Cabriolet Auto (sold)
    1991 325i Coupe Auto (sold)
    1991 325i Cabriolet Manual (sold)
    1991 325i Coupe Auto (sold)
    1990 325i Sedan Auto (sold)
    1984 318i Coupe Auto (sold)

    #2
    May be your idle control valve. Does it not hold idle on start up? Is the power band rough when u step on the gas? May be your afm also. Try cleaning it with some carb cleaner & flap the door might be sticking. Maybe check your rotor it may have flipped 180*

    NEW ERA AUTO GLASS - SFV SOCAL - 818 974-3673
    DREWLIENTE

    1$ PShops PM me

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      #3
      If you suspect your ICV, drill a hole in a dime and shove it in there... it helps

      Comment


        #4
        Its a penny. I'm using that method right now absolutely hate it. No cold start & idle is horrible. Around 1100 rpm. Of course I could just make the hole smaller but it was supposed to be temporary...

        NEW ERA AUTO GLASS - SFV SOCAL - 818 974-3673
        DREWLIENTE

        1$ PShops PM me

        Comment


          #5
          ICV's typically fail by staying open so shouldn't prevent it from starting. I suspect intake leaks especially if the symptoms change with temperature. It could also be timing related so check cap, rotor, wires, vacuum advance and timing.
          Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
          Alice the Time Capsule
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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            #6
            I cleaned the maf sensor with maf cleaner... But no dice. Also one other possible symptom is the constant whirring of the inline fuel pump below the car. Is that normal?

            Also no change in symptoms with temperature and the intake boot looks perfect. I will double check the cap and rotor but I believe that they are fine.
            1989 325i Cabriolet Auto
            1990 325i Coupe Auto (sold)
            1987 325i Cabriolet Manual (sold)
            1989 325i Cabriolet Auto (sold)
            1991 325i Coupe Auto (sold)
            1991 325i Cabriolet Manual (sold)
            1991 325i Coupe Auto (sold)
            1990 325i Sedan Auto (sold)
            1984 318i Coupe Auto (sold)

            Comment


              #7
              Those rotors used to break on me all the time, become loose on the mount. Check for any play

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by shadowbethesda View Post
                Also one other possible symptom is the constant whirring of the inline fuel pump below the car. Is that normal?

                Also no change in symptoms with temperature and the intake boot looks perfect. I will double check the cap and rotor but I believe that they are fine.
                The inline pump should run constantly but if its making too much noise that could be a sign of a bad in tank pump causing the inline to work too hard.

                By temp I meant engine not outside, since you suggest that the problem is worse at start up and not so bad once at OT (if I understand you corre0ctly). Some intake leaks get smaller or disappear once the engine heats up and there are way more places to leak than just the intake boot. Think smoke test
                Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                Alice the Time Capsule
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by cormier View Post
                  Those rotors used to break on me all the time, become loose on the mount. Check for any play
                  The rotor looks good. Although I can rotate it slightly on the distributor shaft which I believe is normal.

                  :(
                  1989 325i Cabriolet Auto
                  1990 325i Coupe Auto (sold)
                  1987 325i Cabriolet Manual (sold)
                  1989 325i Cabriolet Auto (sold)
                  1991 325i Coupe Auto (sold)
                  1991 325i Cabriolet Manual (sold)
                  1991 325i Coupe Auto (sold)
                  1990 325i Sedan Auto (sold)
                  1984 318i Coupe Auto (sold)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
                    The inline pump should run constantly but if its making too much noise that could be a sign of a bad in tank pump causing the inline to work too hard.
                    In tank pump is brand new (installed day before yesterday).

                    Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
                    By temp I meant engine not outside, since you suggest that the problem is worse at start up and not so bad once at OT (if I understand you corre0ctly). Some intake leaks get smaller or disappear once the engine heats up and there are way more places to leak than just the intake boot. Think smoke test
                    The intake boot looks just fine. My starting difficulties are indiscriminate of the engine or environmental temperature being hot or cold.
                    1989 325i Cabriolet Auto
                    1990 325i Coupe Auto (sold)
                    1987 325i Cabriolet Manual (sold)
                    1989 325i Cabriolet Auto (sold)
                    1991 325i Coupe Auto (sold)
                    1991 325i Cabriolet Manual (sold)
                    1991 325i Coupe Auto (sold)
                    1990 325i Sedan Auto (sold)
                    1984 318i Coupe Auto (sold)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by shadowbethesda View Post
                      The rotor looks good. Although I can rotate it slightly on the distributor shaft which I believe is normal.

                      :(
                      you should be able to move it like 30 degrees against the vac advance spring.

                      I don't think it's your IACV. If it was you could hold the throttle open a little and it would fire no problem.

                      You need a few things for an engine to run properly: air, fuel, spark, timing.

                      How do the spark plugs look? Try to crank it over a few times and see if they are wet.
                      '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                      NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                      Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Im sure u would have mentioned it but No charging issues that you can tell? I had loose v belts on the m10 that caused headaches

                        Comment


                          #13
                          As jeffnhiscars suggested, a noisy high pressure pump is on that is having to work too hard or one that is failing. You've already replaced the transfer pump, so that shouldn't be a problem. Have you recently replaced the filter? You need to see what rail fuel pressure is when you experience the hard or no start condition. But I suspect the major issue is intake leaks. Have a smoke test run.
                          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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