That idea came to mind so I checked yesterday, bought on ebay from TrePerformance and they seem legit.
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Help! Stuck at gas station
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Weird ass situation. The pump runs fine off a secondary battery. Both have over 12V.
The car won't start with the pump plug on (car battery) but will with the secondary battery. And while the pump is running off the secondary battery and engine is running, the pump connector (now not plugged in) is showing 13+V.
I tried disconnecting the secondary batt and pluging the pump connector in real fast but the pump won't keep running.
Mind = blown
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Yea, but I can't pinpoint the problem.
It started about a week ago, I was driving like 50 and all of a sudden the engine bogged, no accelerator reaction, and died. Luckily noone was around so I just coasted, turned the key and it started right up again. Drove home fine.
Friday I came to the car, started and it died after a few seconds. I drove off anyways and it then died at the gas station I was at (10mi drive).
I did unfortunately have mice in my car, found out because I saw a chewed out hole in the driver Recaro. I woul've killed the fucker if I saw him. No signs of chewed wires though, I don't know where the wires to the pump are lead.
There's a large connector with maybe 12 wires coming from the passenger side that rests under the rear seat. Wonder if pump wires go through there.
Also I need to know if relay jumping 86-87 should show 12V at the pump with just the key on.
Although if a wire was chewed, I don't understand how I could've measured 13V at the connector when the car was running. It makes no sense. It's like the DME is sending voltage to the pump only after it has started. On the other hand I tried "priming" the fuel with the second battery, then connecting the pump connector, then starting and it started up and died after a few seconds.Last edited by Fusion; 09-09-2012, 06:57 PM.
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Couldn't find any obvious damage to wires so I pulled a long wire to the fuse box and I get a continuous multimeter beep all the way from the plug to fuse 11. So can I rule out wires? I visually checked from driver kick panel, through rocker, al the way back.
Also tried sticking that wire in the fuse connection and the other end to pump +, no prime.
What I did notice though is when I had the key on, I could hear a hum in the engine comp., probably coils, but I think this is normal, just never really noticed...
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Originally posted by Fusion View PostLooking back, could f34r have such wizardry that the (a) coil is right?
If the DME can "see" a bad coil, does it cut off the pump? This would then all make sense.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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It sounds to me like there is a high resistance in the current path for the fuel pump or a bad ground. It could be before or after the relay socket. The way to find out where to look is to apply system power to the output pin of the relay socket. If that works the problem is before the socket. If that doesn't help apply system power to the load side of the fuel pump fuse. That will tell if the problem is between the fuse and relay or in the wiring to the pump. Connecting a ground wire to the pump will tell if that is a problem. The pump wiring runs along the left door sill. The ground for the pump wiring is behind the rear seat back.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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