R12 conversion

[Digitalwave]

Those that have converted your car to R12 (I think thats the new one? whichever ISN'T freon), how much did it cost you? My A/C hasn't worked since I bought my car and I think I am finally going to pay to have it converted/fixed.

[KenC]

R12 is Freon. R134 is what you want to convert it to. I've had quotes around $300. However, there is probably a lot more competition in FL for AC service, so it might be cheaper. You really only need to replace the Receiver/Dryer and change the oil in the system.

[Digitalwave]

That's reasonable. I guess I should go around and get some estimates, I bet I can get it done on the cheap in Miami :) I should find out why mine doesn't work in the first place.

[KenC]

Your system is probably just out of R12. I would take it to a local shop and have them put a vacuum on the system for about 30 minutes. If it doesn't leak, you should be able to just recharge it with R12 (which will probably be around $200). Also, if there is no leak, you should look into some R12 alternatives. I think there is one called Freeze12 or something like that. They're pretty inexpensive. Make sure you get one without propane though!

[Ryan Stewart]

Do you even know if yours hasnt been converted in the first place?

There should be a sticker on the compressor stating which once the system is setup for. Mine had been converted to 134 and it sucked balls. I am most likely going to try a r12 replacement or pony up the dough for actual R12. Of course, i have no idea what effect the newer compressor would have on my system (probably none).

[PeaveyBassist]

Damn I didnt know the conversion cost that much. The guys at my school in AC class changed mine from r12 to r134a for free.

Will

[Ryan Stewart]

They probably just changed the "freon" and the oil and kept the old compressor.

[PeaveyBassist]

Yep. Cus I didnt care. My AC didnt work. I didnt wanna buy a compressor. Shitty... but its December in the middle of Indiana. Cold as fuck. If I ever want to use the AC again, I might change the compressor. If not, then fuck it. I hardly EVER use AC anyways. And I can get a compressor from work for cost + 10% :)

Will

[nickmp0wer]

for some reason i thought just the seals needed to be replaced?

[Digitalwave]

They probably just changed the "freon" and the oil and kept the old compressor.

Is the proper way to change the compressor as well? I will check the sticker on it but I doubt its been converted. If the new stuff doesn't work as well as freon, why do new cars have such cold air - a better a/c system?

Can you even have shops recharge your freon? I thought only super shady places had it anymore.

[NC325iC]

im not positive but i think mine was recharged with r12 about a year ago

[Spaz]

Straight up a converison consists of the following procedures as explained by myself (i'm certified to do r134a converisons and handle cfc products)

1. Check current system for performance.

2. Remove all of the old refridgerant (if their is any).

3. Perform a leak check.

4. Repair the system for leaks or broken components
-all new parts must be rated for r134a.

5. Replace receiver drier
- I recommend it MUST be done with every converison, unless your cheap, and then you shouldn't even care about having a/c in the first place.

6. Remove the orifice tube or expansion valve
- Inspect the orifice tube, or expansion valve filter screen, if the orifice tube shows any debris in the filter screen it should be replaced. If possible use a smaller size orifice tube. (not needed on bmw in general as they use expanison valves, and retrofits do work fine without replacing them.)

7. Service port converison fittings
- permanently install the service port converison fittings.

8. Evacute the System
-For at least 30mins, but 45min is preferred.

9. Charge the system with oil.
- R-12 system mineral oil MUST be replaced with Pag or Ester oil.

10. Recharge the system with R-134a
- Begin at 80%, add more if needed to a maximum of 85% of manufactures recommendation of R-12

15. Verify system performance

16. Final system leak check.



Thats it in a quick summary of what guidelines i have to follow, replacing the seals at the fittings is a good practice but is not needed for the converison, r134a molecules are smaller then r-12 that is why some times you'll gets leaks after a converison as it was designed for r-12 with bigger molecules.

As for less cooling r-134a is only 10% less efficient then r-12, their must be a problem with your system if you complain of lack of cooling. Check your aux fan, it helps a great deal, and u will notice a big difference if it does not run.

You can try replacing the condenser, as they are made different for R134a to have better cooling attributes.
The compressors for r134a have only changed to meet the higher work load r134a puts on them, so i doubt that will have any change on cool.


If you need more help just post and i'll try to anwser them.

Hope this helps.
-Cam

[Spaz]

Oh yeah,

DO NOT BUY

"TOP UP" cans of r134a or the like,

They most likely contain propane, and well you should all understand how dangerous it is to drive around with propane sitting in the front of you car.

[Digitalwave]

Thanks for the info Cam! I will compare this to whatever a shop wants to do to my car for a conversion. At any rate, do you suggest I convert or have my system refilled with R12, money aside?

[Spaz]

Personally i'd go with r134a because sooner or later their won't be any r12 around, it should be banned in your state, but i'm not to sure. And if you have to replace parts they are built for r134a not for r12 anymore.